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soil, and the dwarf Lobelias will be benefited by a similar preparation 
of the ground where they are to be planted. But Verbenas—especially 
the strong growing kinds—Petunias, Calceolarias, Heliotropes, &c., 
bloom more freely in a deep light rather poor soil than in strong rich 
ground, and scarlet Geraniums can hardly be planted in too poor a soil. 
Attend to the plants with water. After planting out never allow the 
balls to get dry until the roots get good hold of the soil; and if the 
weather should prove very hot and dry, a slight shade, such as would 
be afforded by sticking branches of evergreens amongst the plants, 
would be beneficial, especially for such things as may not have been 
well “ hardened ” before planting. If not already done, sow the more 
useful and showy kinds of hardy annuals about shrubbery and herba¬ 
ceous borders, or wherever space can be found for them. Also plant 
out in well-prepared soil. Stocks, Asters, and half-hardy annuals which 
have been raised under glass, and carefully attend to these with water 
until they get fairly established. Greenhouse .—Many of the New 
Holland plants will now be coming in bloom, and unless these are 
shaded on bright days their beauty will be but of short duration. 
During bright warm weather, sprinkle the floors and passages, &c., 
frequently, so as to keep the atmosphere moist, which will greatly assist 
in prolonging the beauty of specimens in bloom, and also benefit plants 
making their growth; and these should be syringed overhead on the 
afternoons of bright days. Ventilate freely during warm weather, but 
sparingly if drying cold winds prevail. If not already done, Epacrises 
and winter-blooming Heaths should be cut back, placing them in the 
closest part of the house until they “ break and those that have been 
cut back, and have started into growth, should be repotted where 
necessary, and any over-luxuriant shoots stopped, so as to secure close 
compact specimens. Attend carefully to everything with water, 
examining the plants frequently, and never water a plant without 
giving enough to thoroughly moisten the whole ball, and a too free use 
of the syringe after the heads are fairly formed is also apt to cause the 
flowers to drop before opening. Start a fresh lot of Achimenes, Gloxinias, 
and Clerodendrons, which will be extremely useful for late summer and 
autumn decoration, and encourage the growth of such things as Euphorbia 
jacquiniflora, Gesnera zebrina, G. cinnabarina, Aphelandras, Epi- 
phyllums—the truncatum varieties ; Hebeclinium, Impatiens Jerdoniae, 
Manettias, Sericographis, Sonerilas, Thyrsacanthus rutilans, which with 
many others, are always extremely useful for winter blooming and 
easily managed; but for early blooming they should be encouraged to 
make free growth at once. See that everything is perfectly clear of 
insects, and do not allow young stock to suffer for the want of pot room. 
Forcing Ground .—Still continue to keep up a good heat to Cucumbers 
in bearing. The linings at this time of the year are liable to get too 
dry, therefore they should be examined, and if necessary turned and 
well watered. Keep the shoots thin, so that leaves may have the full 
benefit of air and light. Stop the shoots at eveiy joint as soon as the 
fruit is visible. Water freely and occasionally with liquid manure. 
Syringe the plants in clear weather, and close early in the afternoon. 
Look over Melons; stop the shoots and cut away all useless growth. 
Give plenty of air during the time the fruit is setting, and place tiles 
