JANUARY. 
19 
dryness of the atmosphere of the house: there¬ 
fore its application should he limited as much 
as possible consistently with the amount of heat 
absolutely necessary to maintain the circula¬ 
tion of the sap or the vitality of the plants. For 
this, less fire heat will be necessary if the glass 
be covered with some protecting material that 
will have the effect of preventing the escape 
of heat by radiation. By this means there 
will be a saving of fuel, whilst, at the same 
time, the health of the plants will be promoted, 
inasmuch as the air will not be robbed of 
moisture, which it is in proportion as the glass 
of the house is colder than the internal air 
which it encloses. The saving in the expense 
of fuel may then with much satisfaction be 
set against the cost of frigi domo or any other 
protecting material. S traw mats neatly made, 
as the French form them, are lighter and 
warmer than Bussia mats, and that being the 
case it is surprising that they are not more 
used in this country by those who cannot 
afford more costly adaptations. Light wooden 
shutters the width of the sashes, made of thin 
boards, would last with care nearly or quite 
a lifetime. Stove plants may be divided, as 
regards temperature, into three classes :—1st, 
Those plants which come from the hottest 
parts of the tropics, or from near the level 
of the sea. The structure for these may be 
allowed to fall as low as 65° at night, and rise 
by sun heat to 7 5°. 2nd, The cooler stove, 
adapted for plants indigenous to places as far 
as lat. 30°, may have the temperature at night 
as low as 60°; by day it may rise to 65°, and 
with sun heat to 70°. 3rd, For another class 
a still cooler temperature, approaching that 
appropriate for what is designated a warm 
greenhouse, will be sufficient. 45° at night, 
60° in the day, and occasionally 10° higher with 
sun heat, may be allowed. For Orchids the 
first of the above ranges of temperature will 
be suitable; for those which are adapted 
for a cool Orchid-house a temperature of 45° 
minimum and 55° maximum will be sufficient; 
and for some species the temperature of an 
ordinary greenhouse has been found to answer. 
In clear days, with bright sun, shading will be 
necessary, and the air should be kept from 
getting too dry. Such kinds as are in a state 
of rest should be kept comparatively cool and 
dry. Those that show signs of a disposition 
to make growth should be moderately en¬ 
couraged with more heat and moisture. 
GREENHOUSE. 
At this season, when the weather is dull and 
the days short, plants want as much light as 
can be afforded them : therefore the glass 
should be washed clean and kept as bright as 
possible. The temperature should be from 40° 
to 45° during the day, and may be allowed to 
rise 10° higher by sun heat. Plenty of air 
should be given at all times when the weather 
will permit, without having recourse to much 
fire heat; for rather than do this, better limit 
the ingress of cold air, for when the air is very 
cold a great quantity rushes in at a com¬ 
paratively small opening, and produces a ven¬ 
tilating effect equal to that of a very much 
larger opening in warmer weather. Great 
attention must be given in respect to water¬ 
ing, for some softwooded plants require much 
more than others, and some readily damp off 
if more is given than they actually require, or 
if from want of drainage water remains about 
the roots. Camellias should be kept rather 
moist, otherwise they are apt to drop their 
flower-buds ; when they are planted out 
behind a north wall in ground exposed to all 
the rains that fall on the soil about their roots, 
and overhead, winter and summer, we do not 
find that they drop their buds: therefore it may 
be fairly presumed that moisture is not the 
cause of Camellias dropping their flower-buds, 
but the want of it. See, then, that these valu¬ 
able plants are duly supplied with moisture. 
Water Azaleas sparingly, but give plenty of 
air. Shift Cinerarias; those for exhibition 
should be put into eight-inch pots. The green 
fly is particularly fond of these plants, there¬ 
fore watch narrowly, and fumigate as soon as 
it is perceived, or even before. 
PITS AND FRAMES. 
Bedding plants are very generally kept in 
these structures, and for such it is especially 
necessary that damp should be carefully 
guarded against. Where there is a command 
of heat damp can be driven off by a little fire 
heat, with additional air at the same time. 
If the plants are in a somewhat warmer at¬ 
mosphere £than that of the external air 
moisture will not be deposited upon their 
foliage, and this will consequently neither 
mould nor damp off. At the same time, 
however, care must be taken to stimulate the 
plants but very little by heat applied for the 
above purpose, or for that of guarding 
against frost; better do this to as great an 
extent as possible by coverings, as recom¬ 
mended for stoves. Gold Frames .—These 
are useful structures for protecting many 
kinds of bedding plants; and, besides pre¬ 
venting the radiation of heat by covering 
the glass, the walls may be covered pretty 
thickly with hay or straw, drawn and 
placed vertically, and kept neatly compact 
by mats. 
FORCING. 
Vines should be pruned, cleaned, and 
painted over with a composition against 
insects, and more especially against the 
attacks of mildew. The loose bark, all that 
is dead and extraneous, should be completely 
cleared off, but so as not to injure the inner 
bark. The branches should then be painted 
over with a composition of soft soap, plenty 
of sulphur, and some decoction of tobacco. 
These ingredients will destroy all insect life. 
Sulphur will destroy the Oidium, which has 
had to be dreaded so much of late years. 
Against its direful attacks sulphur is the 
most effectual substance known; and power- 
