20 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
ful as it is in this respect, it is not at all 
injurious to vegetation; for Vines thrive 
well in Sicily, even a considerable way up 
the base of Mount Etna. Besides this 
dressing of the Vines, the interior of the 
house should be washed with soft soap and 
warm water. If Grapes are desired to he ripe 
in the end of May, forcing should be com¬ 
menced forthwith. If the Vines are planted 
in an inside border, this should be forked up 
and well soaked with manure water ; if they 
are planted outside, the border should be 
equally well watered—’thoroughly moistened 
to the bottom—and then thickly covered 
with hot stable-dung, taking care that the 
stem outside is effectually protected from 
frost and wet. Commence with a temperature 
of 45° at night, and 50° in the day. Shut 
up the house at night till the buds begin to 
swell. Gradually increase the heat; the rise 
may reach 50° at night and 60° in the day, 
or 65° with sun heat, by the end of the 
month. Keep the atmosphere of the house 
rather moist by syringing and shutting up 
the house at the same time, for syringing 
with a strong current of air, especially dry 
air, produces a chilling effect on the rudi¬ 
ments of the buds. Strawberries will not 
bear rapid forcing in their early stage of 
growth. To set the roots in action some 
pots may be plunged in very mild bottom 
heat in a frame with a temperature of 60°. 
Forcing Floivers .—Established plants in pots 
such as Roses, Lilacs, Deutzias, Rhododen¬ 
drons, &c., should be plunged in gentle heat 
to forward them lor introduction to a warmer 
house. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Trench, rough-dig, or ridge all vacant 
ground, so that it may be ameliorated by 
the action of frost; and take advantage of 
this likewise for wheeling manure, and per¬ 
forming other operations, which cannot be 
well carried on when the surface of the 
ground is loose and wet; but do not turn 
down frozen crust in the bottom of the 
trenches, for there it remains long unthawed, 
and afterwards it continues wet and raw till 
far on in the summer. Early Peas may be 
sown in a warm situation ; and also in small 
pots, for transplanting in rows in the open 
ground. 
FRUIT GARDEN. 
The pruning of all kinds of hardy fruit 
trees should be proceeded withand if it is 
decided that any Apple, Pear, Plum, or 
Cherry trees shall be grafted with a different 
sort at the proper season, they should now be 
headed back, for if this is delayed till the sap 
begins to rise, the alburnum is apt to die 
back below the section, and more especially 
so in the case of large limbs; the graft then 
takes -badly, and canker is apt to ensue. 
Stocks should be headed back early in the 
month, if not later than the first week so 
much the better, for they push early, and, if 
not headed back before they do so, the graft 
succeeds imperfectly, and often proves a 
complete failure. If, as a stock for Pears, a 
good sort of Quince be employed, not the 
small-leaved variety of stunted growth, and 
cut back early, every graft should take as 
well almost as on the Pear stock. There are 
some varieties of Pears that will not continue 
to thrive well on the Quince ; but all kinds 
grow for a time if the above advice is at¬ 
tended to. Scions for grafting should now 
be taken off, and more especially those „of 
Plums and Cherries; the cuttings should be 
laid in the ground, and so that the lower 
ends of all of them may be in contact with 
the earth. If the planting of fruit trees was 
not completed in autumn, it should be done 
now, providing the ground is in working 
condition, neither too wet nor frozen. The 
ground, before planting, should be regularly 
trenched to the depth of at least 2 feet; but 
2\ or 3 feet is preferable where the trees are 
liable to suffer from dryness, and, in order 
that they may not, on the other hand, be 
injuriously affected by stagnant moisture, 
the bottom of the trenches should form a 
gently inclined plane towards drainage. The 
trees will then thrive better, produce in 
greater abundance, and the fruit will be of 
superior flavour. Prepare cuttings of Goose¬ 
berries and Currants. Clear away the old 
wood from Raspberries, and the weakest of 
the last summer’s shoots. Shorten the rest 
at the band, near the top, and tie them up. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Plant Roses; for these the ground should 
be well trenched and manured. Protect the 
roots of Tea-scented and China Roses with a 
mulching of long dung. All half-hardy 
plants should likewise be mulched with any 
convenient substance that will prevent the 
ground from being frozen about their roots ; 
and hoops and stakes should be kept in 
readiness for forming skeletons to support 
thatching over tender plants in case of severe 
frost. Roll walks, and cut all the turf 
edgings. 
florists’ flowers. 
Water sparingly, and only when absolutely 
necessary. Dahlia roots and Fuchsias may 
now be put in heat for starting, and cuttings of 
these will now strike readily, and form good 
plants for June and July. Keep Hollyhock 
cuttings clear of decayed leaves. Pinks, and 
all fibrous-rooted plants that may have the 
soil loosened by frost, should be again made 
firm. Prepare soils and compost for potting 
next month. Attend to covering Auricula- 
frames in severe weather, but give plenty of 
air to these plants, and to all other florists’ 
flowers which merely require protection from 
severe frost. Plant Anemones and Ranuncu¬ 
luses in dry weather, the latter to\farcls the 
end of the month. See that Tulip-beds are 
pi'otectecl from heavy rain, snow, and severe 
frost, by hoops and mats, or other means. 
