44 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
last month, for the season in which the Vines 
naturally push without artificial heat will 
sooner arrive. The night temperature may 
therefore he limited to 50°, and that of the 
day may be 60°, or with sun heat 65°. Syringe 
daily, using water of about 60° or 65°. Dis¬ 
bud Vines in the earliest house that have 
pushed shoots so far as to admit of a selection 
being made of the strongest and best situated; 
tie in those that are long enough to admit 
of that being done ; and those that have 
taken a decidedly wrong direction must be 
inclined to the right one by degrees. Stop 
those first that are most forward, but teke 
care to save the leaders. Keep a moist 
growing atmosphere in the house; if the air 
is too dry moisture may be raised by syring¬ 
ing the paths and surface of the border. 
Pines .—Fruiting plants should have a bottom 
heat of from 75° to 80°, and a top heat of 
70° at night and 75° in the day, or 85° by sun 
heat. Successions will succeed very well 
with a bottom heat of from 70° to 75°, and 
an atmospheric temperature of 65° to 70°. 
Water sparingly, using what is allowed as 
warm as the air of the house. After syringing, 
carefully avoid draughts of air. Shut up 
till the surface of the leaves is dry. Pre¬ 
pare soil for shifting the succession stock in 
the end of this month, or early in the next. 
Peaches and Nectarines .—Commence with a 
temperature of 45° at night, and gradually 
increase it to 50° and 55°, but till flowering 
i3 over let the rise of the temperature be 
slight. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Manure, dig, or trench all vacant ground 
as the weather will permit. Sow in frames 
for an early crop, Brussels Sprouts, Early 
York Cabbage, Walcheren Broccoli, Let¬ 
tuces, dwarf varieties of early Peas, such as 
Gem; and in the open ground, Early Ulm 
Savoy, Early Horn Carrot, and Radishes on 
a warm border, covering with litter. Plant 
Early Potatos, Garlic, Shallots, and Jeru¬ 
salem Artichokes. Renew plantations of 
Herbs generally ; all fibrous-rooted ones may 
be propagated by division of the roots ; they 
grow with greater vigour than when not thus 
renewed. Plant Horseradish, placing the 
crown of the cuttings 1 foot below the sur¬ 
face. 
ERUIT GARDEN. 
Provided the ground is in condition, no 
opportunity should be lost of planting all 
kinds of hardy fruit trees intended to be re¬ 
moved this season. In taking up the trees 
see whether the rootlets do not proceed in a 
direction away from the stem. It will be 
found that such is generally the case; then 
in planting let the rootlets be spread out in 
a similar direction, sloping a little downwards 
over a slightly convex surface formed on the 
bottom of the hole, as if like a shallow basin 
inverted. Over this convexity the roots 
should be regularly spread. Prune, if not 
already done,all sorts of fruit trees, and with¬ 
out delay, Apricots, Peaches and Nectarines, 
for these naturally push at an early petiod of 
the season; their sap is early in maturity, and 
when it is in full flow its channels ought not 
to be interfered with. Therefore lose no time 
in finishing all cutting of branches that are 
necessary to be removed, so that the sap may 
flow in channels where the development of 
buds for wood and fruit is desirable. Where 
borders are apt to get too dry, and those 
occupied with Apricot trees are more especi¬ 
ally so, it will be of great advantage if the 
subsoil be thoroughly soaked with water; 
manure water may be employed if the trees 
are not in an over-vigorous state. This will 
promote the health of the trees, enable the 
blossoms to set, and prevent the attacks of 
red spider. In pruning Peaches and Nec¬ 
tarines, shorten the young shoots of last sum¬ 
mer’s growth, which are those on which the 
fruit will be produced in the ensuing summer, 
and at the bases of which the buds for succes¬ 
sion shoots will push; without shortening the 
shoots, the buds would not push, and the 
branches would be naked. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Plant and prune ornamental trees, shrubs, 
and creepers previous to digging the ground. 
Prune and train climbers. Trench ground 
for lawns, if any fresh turf is to be laid down. 
New walks may be formed. If the weather 
is not unfavourable herbaceous plants may 
be taken up, divided, and newly arranged. 
Plant Anemones and Ranunculuses. Protect 
Russian and Tree Violets, and other tender 
plants from severe frost. 
florists’ flowers. 
Auriculas. — Top-dress with fresh soil. 
Protect from frost, but give plenty of air 
when the weather is favourable. Repot 
young plants wintered in small pots. Carna¬ 
tions and Picotees. —Trim off all decayed 
portions of foliage; then stir and refresh the 
surface of the soil; give plenty of air on all 
favourable opportunities. Fuchsias. —Pro¬ 
pagate for general stock; specimen plants 
should be pushed along in gentle heat. Holly¬ 
hocks, sow; repot autumn-struck plants, using 
good rich substantial soil; and avoid all but 
such plants as are of robust stocky growth; 
continue to propagate cuttings from old stools ; 
strike these cuttings in moist bottom heat. 
Pansies. —If the weather is mild, plant out 
and repot. Pelargoniums. —The young stock 
will now bear a shift, and plants that are 
being grown for exhibition should now be in 
their blooming pots, and have the heat gradu¬ 
ally increased. Pinks. —The late severe frosts 
will doubtless have loosened the soil about 
the roots ; let it, together with a little fresh 
compost, be firmly pressed. After this has 
been done to plants apparently almost dead, 
they often recover surprisingly well. Tulips .—- 
Protect from heavy rains, and see that the bed 
is sufficiently drained. 
