MARCH. 
67 
tinguished for floral beauty as well as fra¬ 
grance should be kept up. The soil in pots 
should be kept fresh, and the pots themselves 
kept perfectly clean; then, if placed on silver 
sand, they present an agreeable contrast. 
Besides, the sand absorbs moisture, and in 
proportion to the dryness of the air gives it 
out beneficially. 
PITS AND FRAMES. 
Frequently look over the stock of Bedding 
Plants , to see that all are in a favourable state 
of growth, and shift immediately any that are 
not. Attend particularly to those that are 
required to be pushed on to make shoots for 
propagation, and for this purpose remove 
them to a warmer temperature; but at the 
same time, whilst encouraging growth, take 
care that it is sound and substantial, by giving 
it a due share of light and air. Let the 
stimulus of heat be applied so as it may be 
steadily progressive. Stop back to form 
bushy plants, and do this so as to reduce the 
amount of foliage as little as possible, for 
it is by means of foliage that roots and fresh 
growth are made. Attend well to watering, 
but avoid constant damp, and allow moisture 
to be once a-day, if possible, thoroughly 
chased away by sunshine and fresh air. 
FORCING. 
Vines. —Keep up a moist growing tempe¬ 
rature. Continue to stop the shoots as pre¬ 
viously directed, one joint beyond the fruit, 
and tie out the shoots into their proper 
positions as far as they will admit, for some 
would be in danger of breaking if strained to 
this all at once; such must, therefore, be in¬ 
clined by degrees. Displace at the same time 
superfluous shoots—that is to say, those that 
have shown no fruit and are not required to 
bear leaves ; for it should be always borne in 
mind that as many shoots should be per¬ 
mitted to grow as can have their leaves duly 
exposed to light, whether trained on the 
root or on the spur system. That mode of 
training is the best which admits the greatest 
extent of foliage being exposed in a given 
space. Vines bent down so as to induce the 
buds to break on the lower part of the shoots, 
should be taken up as soon as that object is 
attained. A higher temperature than was 
recommended last month may now be al¬ 
lowed—namely, 60° by night, and 70° by day. 
Muscats will bear 10° higher. Pines are 
during the present month generally shifted. 
In doing this observe, as a general rule, that 
in no case should they be placed in a colder 
medium than that from which they have been 
shifted. "Within certain limits of temperature, 
with ordinary care, the Pine Apple is of easy 
culture. It does not like a high temperature 
by sun heat: not above 90° or 95°, nor one 
by night below 65°, and it prefers a bottom 
heat of about 80°. Plant out of pots now, 
young stock that has never felt the effects 
of temperature except within the above limits ; 
plant on ridges in compost enriched with 
pig’s dung, and give the requisite heat top 
and bottom, and you may not vainly expect 
fruit from 5 to 10 lbs. weight, according to 
the sort. Disbud Peaches and Nectarines, 
taking care to preserve a young shoot, which 
should be the lowest one pushed, on each shoot 
of last year’s wood; train out the leaders 
without stopping where there is room for 
extension. Melons. —Bottom heat 80°, air of 
the frame 70°. Watch well the bottom heat; 
for if it should rise much higher than the 
above, the roots may be injured thereby. 
Pinch off the ends of the shoots when fairly 
started, in order that they may produce 
laterals, the strongest of which should be 
selected for bearing fruit. Strawberries .— 
Place the pots near the light; force very 
slowly at first, and till out of flower. Water 
regularly, otherwise the red spider will set 
to work; fumigate as soon as there is the 
least appearance of it. Clip off the top of 
the scape as soon as enough fruit is formed 
on the lower part. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Sow the principal crop of Borecole for 
autumn and winter. Walcheren and other 
sorts of Broccoli may be sown towards the 
end of the month; and in case the ground 
should be in bad condition sow also in a cold 
frame. Plant out full crops of Cabbages 
which were sown in autumn; sow for summer 
and autumn supply the early Battersea, 
Vanack or Fulham, about the middle of the 
month ; and in the beginning and end of the 
month portions of the Early York. Sow 
Savoys about the middle for autumn use; 
some of the Early Ulm may be sown in the 
beginning of the month. Sow the main 
crops of Peas; for the late kinds the ground 
should be well trenched, and manured with 
cowdung, and also to prevent mildew some 
of Knight’s Dwarf Marrows should have a 
liberal supply of sulphur. Beans raised in 
heat for an early crop, should now be trans¬ 
planted. Sow main crops in the beginning 
and end of the month. Transplant autumn- 
sown Onions; sow the main crop as early in 
the month as the weather and state of the 
ground will permit, in drills 6 inches apart. 
Sow Leeks for transplanting. Plant Garlic 
and Shallots in shallow drills a foot apart. 
Dress Asparagus- beds. Plant out Lettuces 
from frames, and sow on south border. Sow 
main crop of Parsnips. Plant main crop of 
Potatos. Make fresh plantations of Aspa¬ 
ragus, Horseradish, Rhubarb, Chamomile, 
Chives, Hyssop , and Liquorice, if required. 
FRUIT GARDEN. 
The pruning of all kinds of Fruit trees 
should be finished without delay, stone fruits 
more especially. Whilst the ground is in 
condition—moist enough but not too wet, all 
planting should be done; for cold and very 
dry easterly winds often set in in this month 
and prove very trying for newly planted trees 
before young rootlets can be formed to re- 
