APRIL. 
77 
Having provided our baskets and lined tliem, we proceed to prepare our 
Soil. This should consist of onepart peat, one of leaf mould, one of fibrous 
loam, and one composed of equal quantities of well-rotted cowdung, silver 
sand, and cocoa-nut refuse. The whole must be thoroughly mixed, and 
about a sixth part of charcoal in pieces from 1 to 2 inches square added. 
The compost must be used in a rough state. The drainage for all basket 
plants should consist of charcoal only, and as the baskets are flat and per¬ 
forated, it need not exceed an inch in depth. The reason for using charcoal 
is, that it is one of the best drainage materials ; probably locks up and 
gives out carbonic acid just when it is required, and certainly is the 
lightest material at command—the last consideration alone being sufficient 
reason for preferring it. 
And now for the Filling or Planting. Turn out a store pot of Achimenes 
roots, and collect two or three dozen as nearly of equal strength as possible. 
See that all are healthy and prepared to start into growth. Then begin by 
placing a layer of soil over the drainage and a layer of the tubers, with buds 
downwards, upon it. If a zinc shell is used these buds must point in the 
direction of the holes; and the same precaution should be taken to ensure 
the free exit of each succeeding layer. If moss is used for a lining, it will 
be placed in as the planting proceeds, and the growing points placed just 
against or partially among the moss. In filling up the basket the centre 
should be kept rather the lowest, to ensure a better water supply. The 
quantity used in a basket will of course depend very much upon its size ; 
but where the tubers are plentiful, and immediate effect is desired, and a 
large head in proportion to the size of the basket is wanted, I would advo- 
cate thick planting—say from 1 to 2 inches apart, all up the sides of the 
basket. Every layer of soil should be compressed pretty well between the 
layers of tubers. Care must, however, be taken not to break the long 
scaly tubers, as I have noticed that although any part may grow, the 
strongest and best growths are from the ends only, and the strength of the 
ends very much depends upon its having the whole length of the tuber to 
draw upon. Unless the basket is to be placed very high, the top may also 
be planted in the same manner as the sides, and finished off with white or 
common moss. The object of this is twofold: it gives a neat finish, and 
by preventing evaporation saves much watering in the future. 
From this point Culture begins. Assuming that the soil is ordinarily 
moist, such as gardeners pronounce in good condition for potting, and that 
the tubers have been kept dry in the store pot, no water should be given for 
a week or a fortnight. The baskets may be placed in any house or pit with 
a temperature of 60°. In the course of ten days or a fortnight plunge all 
the baskets overhead into water at a temperature of 70° or 80° until the 
whole of their contents is thoroughly soaked. Then suspend them in a 
plant-stove, a vinery, or Peacli-house, at work, or in any shady genial place 
until the shoots and leaves appear; and probably if they are kept shaded 
they will require no more water until then. From this period they must be 
placed in the light and carefully watered. The first few waterings should 
be heavy, for two reasons—to ensure that every part will be moistened, and 
to wash out any loose soil at once, so that it cannot mar the cleanly beauty 
of either leaves or flowers at a later period. If the tubers all grow regularly, 
they will need no attention but the common cultural care. If not, however, 
some stopping and tying may be needed at first to secure uniform growth 
afterwards. It is a very good plan to start the tubers in saucers or pans 
before placing them in baskets. Thus regularity of plant is insured at once, 
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