96 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
of J. communis, called oblonga pendula by some, and caucasica by others, 
which comes from China and Japan, is thoroughly hardy, and is a most 
desirable plant to have even in a small collection, as from its drooping and 
elegant habit it is peculiarly well adapted for effect when planted on the 
borders of shrubberies, where it contrasts well both in colour and habit with 
evergreen and deciduous shrubs. 
The Thujas generally have passed the ordeal unhurt. Among them 
Thuja Lobbii is worthy of most honourable mention, being likely to make 
a large tree. The growth is very rapid, with an elegant pyramidal shape, 
and a fine colour. A large specimen of Thuja aurea is quite safe. T. pen¬ 
dula, or, as Endlicher calls it, Biota pendula, is likewise quite hardy; the 
growth is slow, but it has a very elegant appearance where it flourishes. 
Reclleaf . John Cox. 
TROPiEOLUM TRICOLORUM. 
Twenty years ago, this beautiful greenhouse climber was to be seen at the 
early summer exhibitions, but now it is seldom or never shown; and it is 
rarely that one meets with a well-grown specimen of it even in private col¬ 
lections—a circumstance which is not easily accounted for, as the plant is 
very readily increased, easily grown, very beautiful, and lasts a considerable 
time in flower. Its flowers show to great advantage under artificial light, 
which makes it invaluable for in-door decoration. I am rather partial to this 
pretty climber, and beg to offer a few remarks on its culture, in the hope 
that it may be again as extensively grown as its merits justly entitle it to be. 
The tubers when in a dormant state should be kept in dry sand, and in a 
safe place where mice (which are very fond of them) cannot get to them. 
In general they begin to grow during the month of September. As soon as 
it is perceived that they are starting, they should be at once potted into pots 
of the size they are to flower in. Pots from 8 to 10 or 12 inches in diameter, 
according to the size of the tuber, will be sufficiently large. The pots should 
be well drained, and a little sphagnum should be placed over the potsherds to 
prevent the soil from getting amongst them; a little rotten dung placed 
on this will be found beneficial. They will grow in almost any kind of light 
soil, but the following compost answers well:—One-half turfy loam, one- 
fourtli part fibrous peat, and one-fourth part rotten dung, well mixed together 
with a good sprinkling either of sand or bonedust, the latter being preferable. 
The compost should be in a proper state when used—neither too dry nor 
too wet, and should be pressed tolerably firm in the pots. The roots should 
be planted in the centre of the pots, leaving the tops just above the soil. 
The trellis for training the plants to, should be placed in the pot at once, 
and made so fast to a wire below the pot-rim that it will not move; this is 
a matter of some importance, as, if the trellis is not made firm, the least 
movement of it would by a sudden jerk break off the young shoots from the 
crown. Some attention must also be paid to properly attaching the young 
shoots to the trellis. The kind of trellis is a mere matter of taste; I have 
seen a great variety used, but I like the balloon shape, or rather a modifi¬ 
cation of it, as well as any. 
A few days after potting a gentle watering from a rose water-pot should 
be given to settle the soil nicely around the tubers. The plants will not then 
require much watering until they begin to root into the soil and grow freely, 
and then when water is given them it should be in sufficient quantity to 
go through the entire mass of soil. During the autumn and winter months 
