106 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
they are pinched back, which should be done so that the bases for the next 
divisional shoots should not be left too long, it will he necessary to remove 
four or five of the leaves nearest the apex, which will induce the various 
shoots to break far more readily than if the leaves are left on. If kept 
moderately dry, and exposed to every ray of sun, the plants will have 
formed moderately firm shoots by the second week in April, when it will he 
necessary to give them a shift into a compost formed of two parts good 
yellow fibrous loam, two of silver sand and potsherds broken very small, 
and one of good brown peat, all chopped well up together and thoroughly 
amalgamated. In potting add fresh soil to the roots in lieu of the im¬ 
poverished particles which surround them, keeping in view at all times the 
desirability rather of growing them in as small-sized pots as possible, con¬ 
sistent with the size of the plants, than of giving large shifts. Pot them very 
firmly, and give them such a soaking of water as will thoroughly percolate 
every part of the hall. By about the middle of June it will be necessary 
to pinch them hack again, for the double purpose of keeping them from 
showing flower in the succeeding month, and to induce the formation of 
well-matured young shoots to stand the following winter. Remove a few 
of the upper leaves after this pinching also, and keep them well up to 
the glass and freely exposed to the air, with a moderate supply of water, 
until the last week in July, when they should cease growing; and by 
being placed in the full sun should he thoroughly ripened to stand the 
winter. 
As the winter treatment of plants of all sizes varies little from the 
above, we may leave these at this stage, and return to such plants or speci¬ 
mens as it may he desired to flower this season. Nothing enhances the 
beauty of the larger specimens more than a decisive pinching-back of all 
young shoots at any time between the middle of February and the end of 
the first week in March. Early in April give all the plants requiring it, a 
shift into a moderate-sized pot. The directions given above apply equally to 
these. When potted, place them in a light, airy situation in a temperature 
averaging 75° in sunny weather, hearing in mind that they should upon no 
occasion fall below a minimum of 60° by day, whilst the average of tempe¬ 
rature best suited to them by night will he from 52° to 54°. Here they 
may continue to grow, fully exposed to the sun, , until about the last week 
in April, by which time the sun, having gained much power, should not be 
permitted to reach them without a slight modification of its more direct 
rays at or about meridian, otherwise it may scorch or bronze the leaves so 
as to derange their functions, and destroy that beautiful green which by 
contrast so enhances the brilliancy of the flowers. This brings me to the 
rationale of success in growing them. They like sun and heat in plenitude 
whilst freely growing, with, however, abundance of air, which they should 
feel directly, without any attendant decrease in the temperature occasioned 
by draughts and the like. So treated they will have made a nice growth by 
the last week in April, having the pots well filled with roots, under which 
circumstances a slight amount of manure water will be of benefit to them 
occasionally during the month of May. By the last week in April it will be 
necessary to remove them into a cooler position with free exposure to the 
sun, and a yet more free exposure to air. A warm greenhouse or roomy 
pit, in which they will perfect a further growth preparatory to flowering in 
July, will suit them well. When once they show symptoms of flowering 
keep them constantly close to the glass, and slightly increase the dose of 
manure water, always, however, using it in a thoroughly clear state. Stake 
