116 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
winter fruiting, such as Cayennes and Black 
Jamaicas, should be finally shifted, and to 
insure their starting, gradually reduce the 
moisture and increase the heat. Encourage 
the growth of succession plants by heat and 
moisture, but at the same time give sufficient 
air to prevent the plants being drawn up 
weakly. Vines .—Let the temperature rise 
progressively; and in order that the fruit 
may acquire the fullest flavour, allow 70° by 
night and 85° in the day, or 95° by sun heat. 
In the later vineries, Hamburghs, Musca¬ 
dines, and others of a similar nature will re¬ 
quire but little fire heat unless, as hitherto, 
the season exhibit unusual characteristics. 
Continue to pinch off laterals and secondary 
growths. Beware, however, of meddling 
with the foliage, except that connected with 
laterals. Rather than this, leave all the 
originally-expanded leaves, or those de¬ 
veloped before the first stopping of the 
shoots; if they should shade the fruit, heed 
not, it will colour notwithstanding, while if 
the Vine is injudiciously divested of much 
foliage, bad colour and inferior flavour will 
be the undesirable result. Whilst the fruit 
is swelling, take care that the border is suffi¬ 
ciently moist; make a point of seeing to this 
immediately before the fruit begins to colour, 
as afterwards water will deteriorate the 
flavour. Peaches and Nectarines .—When 
the fruit is stoned, these will bear a high 
temperature provided the roots have sufficient 
moisture; and if this be the case sun heat, as 
high as 90 9 , will prove congenial.. Figs .— 
Attend to watering so that the plants may 
never get once too dry ; stop the young 
shoots wherever there is a tendency to be¬ 
come elongated. Strawberries .—Introduce 
the latest succession. 
FRUIT GARDEN. 
Trees on walls should be frequently in¬ 
spected, in order that disbudding may not be 
delayed. This operation should be early com¬ 
menced on Peaches and Nectarines , remov¬ 
ing first those shoots that push right in front 
(foreright), for these should all be ultimately 
removed unless one may be required for sup¬ 
plying some vacancy; the most forward of 
these will, in general, be on the central and 
more upright branches. Then remove such 
of the lateral shoots as are not eligibly 
situated, or which have no fruit at their base. 
One thing above all demands especial care, 
and that is to retain succession shoots to re¬ 
place those that should this season bear 
fruit. The selection of these is easily deter¬ 
mined. They should be those that are formed 
nearest the base of the bearing shoot which 
they are to replace. Shoots that must be left 
on strong parts, and which are likely to be¬ 
come too vigorous, should be stopped when 
about 6 inches long. Horizontal branches, 
or those approaching that direction, should 
last disbudded. Syringe wall trees in the 
morning whilst the nights are cold, but as 1 
soon as there is no longer danger from frost, 
commence about 4 p.m. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Plant Cauliflowers forwarded under glass ; 
also Cabbages for the principal summer crops, 
and some Brussels Sprouts for early use. Cut 
all the shoots of Asparagus as they become 
fit, but leave off entirely in good time; by 
this means the plants will gain strength for 
next year. The cutting season need not be 
so prolonged as formerly, since so many su¬ 
perior varieties of early Peas can now be 
obtained, as a substitute for Asparagus. Sow 
Beet, Borecole , and the principal crops of 
Broccoli and Cauliflower about the ‘20th. 
Sow and plant out Lettuces for succession; 
sow also Radishes. Sow Savoys for the latest 
crops, and the Early Ulm for first use; early 
sorts of Turnips for summer use ~ and Onions 
for pickling, in the beginning of the month. 
Sow Scarlet Runners and successions of Kid¬ 
ney Beans. Sow Endive in brisk heat: it is 
apt to run if it lingers in vegetating. Plant 
out Celery. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Take the first opportunity of favourable 
weather to plant out the various kinds of 
Bedding plants, Dahlias, &c.; but if northerly 
winds prevail at any time for several succes¬ 
sive days, it is better to let the more tender 
plants remain under shelter of the awning 
till settled weather is apparent, and the sky 
is free from masses of dusky white clouds de¬ 
positing heavy drops like melted hail. Pro¬ 
ceed then at once to fill up the beds 
according to pre-arranged plans, for making 
which the backward season has given ample 
time. By the time that planting is com¬ 
pleted, the walks and lawn should be in 
perfect order. 
florists’ flowers. 
Auriculas. —Give plenty of air night and 
day in mild weather; stir the surface of the 
soil in the pots, and when the bloom is past, 
and where seed is not wanted, cut over the 
stems a little below the truss. Calceolarias. 
—Shift any that may require more pot room ; 
keep the house cool, and shade those in flower 
from hot sun; water them occasionally with 
weak manure water. Cinerarias. —Sow as 
soon as the seeds are ripe. Carnations —Top- 
dress and stake. Dahlias. —Put in the stakes 
before planting out. Fuchsias. —Stop the 
shoots of any that are long-jointed; shift on 
all those that require more pot room, giving 
good drainage: apply liquid manure once or 
twice a-week, and syringe overhead in the 
afternoon when the house is shut up. Holly¬ 
hocks. —Plant out seedlings; sow on a gentle 
hotbed. Pelargoniums. —Give air freely when 
the weather is favourable. Pinks. — 1'hin 
out blooming stems where too numerous; 
give liquid manure twice a-week. Petunias. 
—Pinch off flower-buds and stop the shoots, 
where a late bloom is required. Phloxes .— 
These may be propagated by cuttings. 
