140 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
ft 01 © should bo firm find thick in substance, 
rather than broad, the former resulting from 
plenty of air, enough water at all times, but 
no superabundance ; then the wood will be 
firm, and the fruit will hold on. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Frequently stir the surface of the soil 
where crops are growing, for by so doing 
their growth will be promoted, and less water 
will be required. Loose soil has the effect 
of mulching, for which, in fact, dry dust has 
been experimentally used and found as ef¬ 
fectual as litter. Both frost and drought 
penetrate farther where the surface is com¬ 
pact than where it is loose. In watering it 
is best to moisten the soil all over, with a wide 
rose, and not merely to pour some water at 
the neck of each plant, for by so doing if 
some of the spongioles extend beyond the 
circuit of the moisture into the surrounding 
dry medium, the plants must suffer. These 
spongioles have an attraction for moisture, 
and if this is diffused in the soil the roots 
have a tendency to grow towards it, and pre¬ 
fer taking it by degrees rather than to be 
plunged into it at once. Sow Beans and 
Peas for latest crops, Carrots for drawing- 
young, and Cucumbers for pickling ; sow 
also the main winter crop of Turnips Dis¬ 
continue cutting Asparagus, and give the 
beds a top-dressing of common salt. It will 
act as manure, and at the same time will kill 
the weeds. Plant out Cabbages , Savoys, and 
Celery; also the various crops required for 
succession. Let no plants get drawn up in the 
seed-beds. Earth-up Potatos, forming broad- 
shouldered drills rather hollow along the top. 
FRUIT GARDEN. 
Attend to the summer pruning of Wall 
trees so that there be no confusion of the young 
shoots. These will grow in proportion to 
the extent of foliage they bear, and the quan¬ 
tity of sap determined towards them, which 
will be greatest towards the upper buds, the 
more upright branches, and those that are most 
vigorous. From this, its natural tendency, 
it will not readily turn horizontally to right 
or left, nor into weak branches rather than 
strong; hence the necessity of artificially 
diverting the flow from where it is naturally 
too strong to where it is comparatively weak, 
if we wish to preserve the balance of vegetation 
throughout the tree. As regards the Peach, 
its shoots will now be growing rapidly, and 
will demand close attention. Care should be 
taken that of those which have this season 
pushed on each bearing shoot or branch, the 
lowest should be selected and encouraged for 
a successional bearing shoot for next year. 
The others, except the leading shoot of the 
branch, should be shortened to a length of 3 or 
4 inches, commencing with the strongest. In 
training let the strongest shoots be first nailed 
in; if too strong they should be inclined 
from a perpendicular direction, and if this can¬ 
not be done without crossing, their extremities 
may be inclined downwards. On the contrary, 
branches occupying a horizontal position 
should have their extremities turned upwards. 
Pinch in or shorten the shootsof pyramid trees, 
commencing with those towards the top. See 
that ties of grafts are loosened before they be¬ 
come too tight. The foreright shoots of wall 
and espalier Pear trees should be shortened 
to above the sixth leaf, commencing with the 
strongest or those on the upper part of the 
tree, and working at intervals down to the 
lowest. This will tend to equalise the vigour 
of the branches. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
The lawns should be kept regularly mown, 
and the walks rolled and neatly edged. The 
verges should be rolled after rain, until they 
are only a little above the gravel, and then 
be edged off perfectly straight or even from 
end to end. If the edgings exhibit a distinct 
line it is sufficient; they do not require to be 
like shallow plough-furrows. Plants in borders, 
requiring sticks, should be early attended to. 
Thin annuals, which are often so wn too thickly; 
some kinds may be transplanted into vacan¬ 
cies. Make cuttings of Double Rochets, 
Double Wallflowers, Antirrhinums, &c. Clip 
hedges, and Box edgings. Do not take up 
Bulbs until the leaves are fully decayed. 
florists’ flowers. 
Auriculas. —Keep the plants clean from 
decayed foliage and insects; shade slightly ; 
pot off seedlings; gather seed. Carnations 
and Picotees. —Thin the blossom-buds to two 
and the centre one ; see that the ties are not 
too tight. Cinerarias being now nearly out 
of flower, should be placed in a cool situation, 
and when the growth has acquired sufficient 
firmness, cut down to within 3 inches of the 
base; dress the surface of the soil with some 
light compost, and protect from too much wet. 
Take off cuttings when ready, and put them 
in pots, which place under glass in a shaded 
situation, potting them off when rooted, and 
shifting into larger pots as often as more room 
is required. Sow seeds for early bloom. Holly¬ 
hocks. —Propagate as soon as side shoots can 
be taken off. Pelargoniums. —Give air freely, 
but not so as to cause draughts. Water in 
the mornings, but sparingly in dull weather, 
and do not shut up with much moisture. Be¬ 
fore the plants are cut down, they should be 
kept rather dry at the root. Prolong the bloom 
by careful shading and watering, avoiding 
a close warm moist atmosphere. Fancy 
varieties should be struck in a cool frame. 
Pansies. —Put in cuttings. Pinks. —Water 
freely ; commence propagating towards the 
end of the month. Roses in pots, supposing 
them to be in small ones, should be repotted, 
and placed in a warm greenhouse, or on bottom 
'ieat out of doors till September, the wood 
being then ripened, by gradually withdrawing 
both heat and moisture. By this means, 
well-formed plants may be grown 5 or 6 feet 
high. Tulips should be now fully exposed. 
