146 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
of the success which at a subsequent date attended a bed originally formed 
and planted by the able cultivator, Sweet, whose method of planting and 
preparing the beds I add in his own words:—“ They thrive best in an 
admixture of full one-third sand, rather more than a third of turfy loam, 
and the rest turfy peat .... They need planting 6 inches deep, near a 
south wall.” The bed from which the necessary experience had been gained, 
to lay down this course of treatment, still continued to flourish at a much 
later date. This bed, moreover, was not formed upon the south border, 
“under a south wall,” but in a border having a southern aspect, and 
separated from the wall by a walk about 12 feet distant. Here annually, 
commencing about the last week in June, the plants flowered abundantly, 
the flowers continuing to increase in quantity until they became a mass 
of bright particoloured tints, commanding the admiration of all who saw 
them. Individually, the spikes averaged some 2£ feet in height, and bore 
each from eleven to thirteen flowers. The only protection afforded to this 
bed through the severe winter months, was a layer of loose shakings from 
the manure heap. 
It will be seen that the long fascicled fleshy tubers are much more favour¬ 
ably situated for developing themselves in the perfect freedom of an open 
border, than it is possible for them to be when cramped together within the 
limited space of a flower-pot; independent of which, the more uniform con¬ 
dition as to moisture of a bed of this character during their natural season 
of rest, is far more congenial to tubers so excessively succulent as these, 
than is the necessarily fluctuating condition to which they would be sub¬ 
jected when at rest, if kept in pots. 
There are some facts relating to the culture of these plants which are 
not touched upon by the able author above referred to. In preparing a bed 
for them there should be provided at all times, save in localities where a 
chalk or gravelly subsoil exists, an efficient artificial drainage at a depth 
of about 16 inches. This is best done by taking out to the necessary depth 
a wide trench at one end of the bed, and at the bottom of this placing 8 or 
4 inches of loose stones or brickbats, covered by a layer of waste wood 
trimmings, upon which the soil from the next trench should be firmly placed. 
To this should be added, in successive layers, abundance of sand or gritty 
matter, such as road-driftings ; but nothing in the form of manure should 
be used, as any substances that have a tendency to become decomposed 
invariably cause canker, and subsequent decay in the tubers. As recom¬ 
mended above, peat earth in due proportions will be beneficial; but this, if 
not plentiful, might be placed more in the immediate vicinity of the tubers 
at the time of planting, rather than mixed up throughout the whole mass of 
soil. Sweet advises planting “ 6 inches deep,” but I would recommend 
that they should be planted some 10 inches below the surface, especially in 
any less favourable latitudes. 
September or early in October is, perhaps, the best season for planting 
the tubers, after which the soil should be pressed or trodden down quite 
firm. With the view of warding off excessive moisture from showers, &c., 
the surface of the bed will be all the better if formed with, an abrupt slope 
to the south, and patted over firmly and evenly with a spade. When the 
young shoots are pushing through the ground in early spring, it is necessary 
to see that the crowns are not injured by insects or vermin. Be particular 
not to remove the old flower-stalks until they have become thoroughly 
ripened-off after flowering is over. 
M. Van Houtte, of Ghent, originated some very beautiful hybrids of the 
