164 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
latter, nothing more need be said with regard 
to the great care that ought to be taken of 
them. Peaches and Nectarines. —When the 
fruit is all gathered syringe the trees so as to 
clean them thoroughly of insects. If dry at 
the root a moderate supply of water should 
be afforded, so that without encouraging too 
late a growth, the leaves by the natural heat 
of the season may exercise a healthy action 
till they drop, when the buds for next year 
shall have had all that they can obtain from this 
year’s foliage. Figs. —Syringe till the fruit 
begins to form. Cherries. —Keep the foliage 
clean by syringing. Melons. —Water tho¬ 
roughly the beds before the fruit swell off, so 
that water will not be required when the pro¬ 
cess of ripening commences. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
All vacant ground should now be occupied, 
the various crops kept clear of weeds, and 
the surface should be frequently stirred. 
Sudden heavy rains run off without sink¬ 
ing in to moisten the ground at the extremi¬ 
ties of the roots, and in that case plants 
are apt to suffer; watering should, there¬ 
fore, be more especially attended to. Sow 
the latest crop of Broad Beans, and in the 
middle and end of the month the principal 
winter crops of Endive. Sow early in the 
month a few of the Black Belgian Kidney 
Bean for a late supply. Sow Lettuces, Ra¬ 
dishes, and Spinach for succession. Sow 
Cabbages in the first week for Coleworts, if 
not done before. The principal sowing of 
Early Battersea, or Vanack, and of Red 
Cabbage for autumn planting should be made 
in the last week; the 27th, on the average of 
many years, has proved the best time; but 
in late or northern situations the middle of 
the month is preferable. Sow some Early 
Horn Carrots for drawing young. Plant out 
the main crop of Celery. Peg down the 
shoots of Vegetable Marrows; they will root 
at the joints, and continue longer in bearing. 
fruit garden. 
Regulate the summer growth with a view 
to produce a uniformity of vigour throughout 
the tree, by checking the vigour of those shoots 
that are too strong, and encouraging those 
that are weakly. It was a mistaken notion 
to encourage over-vigorous shoots to grow in 
order that they might exhaust their excess of 
vigour by their own growth. There could 
not be a greater error than this in the manage¬ 
ment of trees, for the more sap that flows to 
any particular branch, the more new channels 
will be formed for an increased future supply. 
The sap flows more readily into a vigorous 
shoot than into one that is weak ; if a shoot 
is long and healthy it will have a proportion¬ 
ate number of leaves, and its growth will be 
in proportion to the number of leaves con¬ 
nected with it; reduce the length of the shoot, 
there will of course be fewer leaves, and the 
growth will consequently be diminished. Then, 
if the weakly shoot could be strengthened, 
an equality of vigour would be approximated. 
A shoot can only be invigorated by increasing 
the foliage directly or indirectly connected 
with it. Syringe Wall Trees after 4 p.m. Set 
traps for earwigs. See that the upper shoots 
of pyramids are shortened much morethan the 
lower. Use tobacco dust for greenfly. Mulch 
wall-fruit borders with stable-litter, and then 
water plentifully through it. Bud Apricots, 
then Cherries , Plums, Peaches, and Nectarines. 
Attend to untying and supporting grafts. 
Layer Strawberries; stop the runners beyond 
the rooted joint. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
The operations in this are mostly reduced to 
the routine of mowing, sweeping, and rolling. 
Tie up the stems of herbaceous plants requir¬ 
ing support, not in close bunches, but so as 
each stalk may have freedom to grow. Clip 
hedges ; regulate evergreens; train creepers. 
Bud Hoses, and remove suckers as soon as they 
appear, otherwise sap will be diverted from 
its legitimate channels* Weeds in walks can 
be most readily destroyed by salt, but if it 
can be done by weeding, and keeping a smooth 
firmly rolled surface it is better. 
florists’ flowers. 
Antirrhinums. — Propagate by cuttings 
under a hand-glass or frame. Auriculas .— 
Protect the plant from excessive wet. The 
soil intended for repotting should be fre¬ 
quently turned over when moderately dry. 
Carnations and Picotees. —Attend to with 
water ; weak liquid manure may be given oc¬ 
casionally ; protect the blossom from sun and 
heavy rain ; propagate by layering. Dahlias. 
—Water over the foliage towards 6 p.m., and 
see that the ground is not too dry. Plots for 
the destruction of insects, particularly ear¬ 
wigs, cannot be laid too soon; there may yet 
be few, but in the early part of the season 
the destruction of a few stops the increase of 
a vast number. Hollyhocks. —The propagat¬ 
ing of these may now be extensively pro¬ 
ceeded with. The small side shoots will 
afford cuttings, whilst the removal of these 
will throw strength into the main spikes. 
Pansies. —Plant out the first-struck cuttings, 
which will bloom in September and October; 
they strike with great facility in those months, 
but, although, precarious to strike now, it is 
desirable to put in all that can be made in order 
to fill up deficiencies caused by plants dying 
off. Pinks. —Good plants can be most readily 
struck by cuttings under bell-glasses, on very 
slight bottom heat. If the top of the leading 
1 shoot is carefully taken off, a large number of 
small shoots will push, and these will strike 
readily by the end of the month. Roses in 
Pots. —Hybrid Perpetuals and other Hybrids 
should be plunged, and the pots mulched over 
in the open air by the 1st of the month, and 
thrir shoots may be staked outwards, so that 
( the wood may be well ripened for early 
| blooming. The soil should be made suffioently 
J moist and no more. 
