188 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
Pine Apples. —Give air freely, and maintain 
a steady temperature of about 85°; complete 
sliifting generally before the middle of the 
month; keep close and more shaded than 
usual till fresh roots are formed. Peaches 
and Nectarines. —When the fruit is gathered 
water the border moderately if dry. 
KITCHEN - GARDEN. 
The ground should be kept clear of weeds, 
so as to prevent their seeding, for if this takes 
place and the seeds are dug in, some will 
vegetate immediately, others will lie dormant 
for a time, but will sooner or later make their 
appearance, favoured by the heat of the soil, 
and with moisture when this falls in sufficient 
abundance. When the seeds of weeds have 
vegetated and arc in their seed-leaves, take 
the opportunity of a dry day to give the sur¬ 
face of the ground a shallow hoeing and light 
raking, and the crop of weeds will disappear. 
Couch grass and Bishop-weed, held in mortal 
enmity by gardeners, will succumb if not 
permitted to show a green leaf during their 
season of growth. Artichoke stalks should be 
cut down as the crop is gathered. Plant out 
the late crops of Broccoli. Earth up early 
crops of Celery, but keep the hearts quite 
clear. Bank and earth up the earliest crop of 
Cardoons. Take up Garlic and Shallots when 
the leaves begin to wither, and string by the 
withered leaves on a dry straw rope. Sow 
Onions about the middle of the month for stand¬ 
ing the winter, and for drawing young ; also 
Turnips to stand the winter. Sow Caulifloxvers 
between the 18th and 25th (a little earlier or 
later according as the situation is more or less 
warm), and Cabbages (Early Yanack or Ful¬ 
ham) in the first week, if not done at the end 
of last month. Sow Lettuces towards the end 
of the month for winter and spring use, the 
Brown Cos, Green Paris Cos, and Hardy 
Hammersmith are the preferable sorts. Sow 
Early Horn Carrot in the beginning of the 
month, in a warm situation, for spring use. 
Sow Spinach at the middle and end of the 
month for the main winter crops. Mulch late 
crops of Peas, and keep them well watered. 
Train and stop Tomatos frequently, so as to 
cut away but little at any one time. 
FRUIT GARDEN. 
The more vigorous shoots of fruit trees— 
dwarfs, espaliers, pyramids, and wall trees, 
will have pushed fresh shoots from where 
formerly stopped. Beginning with the upper¬ 
most and most vigorous, let these be again 
stopped to about 2 inches above their previous 
stopping ; this will encourage the formation of 
fruit-buds on the parts below the stopping, 
instead of a long useless shoot, furnished only 
with wood-buds, which, unless it may form a 
leader, would have to be cut away at the 
winter pruning. But where it is desirable to 
strengthen a shoot, which can only be done 
by increasing the number or size of the leaves, 
it will be advisable not to repinch or cut so 
closely, and perhaps not at all. Keep the up¬ 
right and strongest shoots of wall trees closely 
nailed in, but allow the weak and horizontal 
ones more freedom. This will tend to main¬ 
tain the balance of strength among the 
branches, and consequently their health and 
fruitfulness. Syringe in case of red spider. 
Green fly is easily destroyed by snuff, if that 
so called be made of tobacco leaves. Earwigs 
are good judges of the ripest and best fruits, 
but they mark the finest with unsightly holes. 
They will take shelter in tubes of any kind, 
but they prefer the soft pithy lining of dry 
Bean stalks; cut a number of these in lengths 
of 5 or 6 inches and place among the branches, 
and in the morning the insects can be blown 
out of the stalks into a bottle of water. Gather 
fruits as they ripen Gooseberries, Currants, 
and Raspberries are best got when cool and 
dry, but Peaches and Nectarines are not de¬ 
teriorated if gathered during hot sunshine. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Continue to keep Walks and Lawns in good 
order; keep the borders clear of all decayed 
flower-stalks, and of everything not necessary 
to be seen. Tie up plants requiring support; 
prepare rods and stakes for such plants as 
may require them. Syringe the foliage of 
Roses, and clean the stems of standard ones 
with a brush and water. Plant out Wall - 
■flowers, Siveet Williams , and other biennial 
plants where they are intended to flower. 
Evergreens may be transplanted towards the 
end of the month. If the weather is cloudy, 
so much the better; if not, shade sufficiently 
from hot sun, and keep the surface of the 
ground moist under the shading. By this 
course success will be insured, vegetation will 
go on, and fresh roots will be established be¬ 
fore winter. Clip Box and any hedges that 
would have an unsightly straggling growth 
if not dressed before the winter pruning. 
florists’ flowers. 
Auriculas. —Fumigate or use tobacco dust 
to destroy green fly. The general repotting 
should take place early in the month ; three 
and four-inch pots will be most suitable; if 
old ones are used they should be well washed. 
Shift young plants that are in small pots into 
those a size larger. The strongest seedlings 
should be encouraged by potting them singly. 
Carnations and Picotees. —The general layer¬ 
ing of these should be proceeded with im¬ 
mediately, and'finished by the 15 th, or at all 
events by the 20th. Transplant pipings into 
sandy soil when struck. Dahlias. —Mulch if 
not already done; water over the foliage 
every evening in dry weather ; trap earwigs 
by means of small flower-pots lined with hay 
and inverted on the top of the stakes. Pansies. 
—Plant out young stock, and continue to 
strike cuttings; sow seed, and if necessary 
apply sulphur to check mildew. Sow Ten- 
xseek Stocks for winter flowering. Pinks and 
Violets. —Pot up strong roots for forcing. 
