2G0 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
shoots are obtained from established plants 
forced without removal than from plants 
taken up and planted in frames. It is neces¬ 
sary to dig a trench on each side of the bed 
so as to interfere as little with the roots as 
possible, and the bottom of the trench should 
be as low as the extremities of the roots. This 
trench will include a considerable mass of 
soil, not easy to heat throughout. The in¬ 
troduction of heat will be facilitated by 
piercing holes in the bed with a smooth half¬ 
inch iron rod, some of the holes slanting 
downwards, others horizontally or nearly so; 
by these the beat of the fermenting manure 
will be rapidly conducted throughout the 
mass, and fine shoots will soon result. 
Cucumbers. —Plant, and maintain a bottom 
heat of 75°; top heat about the same, but it 
may rise to 80° with sun heat. Let the water 
used be about 75°. 
PITS AND FRAMES. 
Introduce Rhododendrons, Roses, Persian 
Lilacs , Bulbs, &c., for forcing. In moving 
any plants either into these structures or out 
of them, see that they are perfectly clean, 
and arrange them so that those requiring 
similar treatment may be classed together; 
thus the treatment which may be suitable for 
any one in a compartment will not be un¬ 
suitable for the whole. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Crops, of course, must be cleared off as they 
are fit or required. Then comes the question, 
What is the most suitable crop to follow ? 
That being settled, we come to the simple con¬ 
sideration of How must the ground be now 
treated for that crop—trenched deeply or shal¬ 
low—merely dug over, or ridged to expose the 
largest possible surface to the weather if its 
character is too tenacious ? By acting from 
such considerations the earth will be subjected 
to the agencies of the atmosphere, so as to 
yield up its mineral stores to enrich the ensu¬ 
ing crop. Dress Artichokes ; mulch them with 
litter, fern, or leaves to protect them from 
frost, packing closely round the plants, but 
not over their hearts. Cut down the stalks 
of Asparagus, and clean the beds from weeds. 
Protect and earth up Cardoons. Earth up 
Celery , closing the earth round the plants by 
hand, leaving room amongst the stalks for the 
tender hearts to grow up and be subsequently 
blanched. Remove some Endive from borders, 
and plant on a dry slope. Make a sowing of 
early Peas (Dillistone’s or Sangster’s); also 
a small sowing of early Mazagan Beans. 
FRUIT GARDEN. 
As soon as the leaves have fallen most 
fruit trees may be planted. Let the holes for 
the reception of the roots be dug wider than 
the extent of the roots, as wide at bottom as 
at top, and quite as deep at the sides as in 
the middle of the hole. Holes for trees have 
been seen formed with a concavity like a basin, 
the roots tending up the sides. The bottom 
of the hole should be formed with a convex¬ 
ity, on which the roots should be regularly 
spread as on the bottom of a basin inverted. 
When small fibres surround each other they 
ultimately become a strong mass when the 
roots grow large. As a general rule let the 
transplanted tree be placed as deep in the 
ground as it was before removal. Young 
plantations of fruit trees are generally apt to 
grow luxuriously to wood. The French have 
a true saying, “We must have wood before we 
can have fruit,” but in our climate a check to 
luxuriousness is beneficial, for otherwise the 
tendency to grow to wood prevents the form¬ 
ation of fruit buds, so that many years often 
elapse before there is any return in the way of 
fruit, and under unskilful treatment the tree 
assumes a rambling unsymmetrical growth, 
which ultimately requires the amputation of 
larger branches than is consistent with a sound 
constitution, and an equal distribution of the 
sap—matters which should never be lost sight 
of. Frequently large roots reciprocate with 
large branches, and when the roots are re¬ 
duced, the branches can be proportionally so, 
and thus an equality of vigour in the branches 
will be attained, and a uniformity of fruitful 
produce will result. Beyond this, root-prun¬ 
ing should not be carried, for nothing more is 
required by the operation. When trees are 
removed or transplanted they should be 
thoroughly watered to close in the particles of 
soil among the fibres, but no more water than 
this will be necessary at this season. Pruning 
all hardy fruit trees maybe immediately com¬ 
menced. Let protection be prepared for Fig 
trees. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Roses and all other deciduous shrubs may 
be planted in this month. Take up Dahlias 
on a dry day, previously cutting the stems to 
within 6 or 8 inches of the ground ; store in 
a cool dry place secure from frost. Fuchsia 
globosa and any of the more hardy kinds may 
be kept in the ground if well mulched. 
Fibrous-rooted Perennials planted now, pro¬ 
duce larger flowers than if the planting were 
deferred till spring. Plant hardy bulbs. Keep 
the lawn and walks well swept and rolled ; and 
now is !a good time to make any alteration in 
the ground. 
florists’ flowers. 
Auriculas. —Take care not to over-water, 
keep the plants clean and clear from decayed 
foliage. Carnations andPicotees. —Give plenty 
of air, and water very moderate^. Hollyhocks. 
—Strike cuttings; repot those struck in the 
summer. Pansies. —Growas hardy as possible, 
keeping off the lights when the weather it 
fine. Pinks. —Examine the plants for grubs. 
Stir to loosen the surface of the beds when is 
is not wet. Tulips .—Plant the first favour¬ 
able opportunity when the soil is in good 
working order, in a dry day; use fine sandy 
soil about the roots. 
