280 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
their "blossoms are liable to drop, especially if 
it is a close heat: proceed, therefore, gradually 
at the rate of 45° to 50° at night, and 55° to 
60° by day, or 65° by sun heat with plenty of 
air. Siraivbai'ies. —Introduce pots to the 
Peach-house or other convenient house, where 
they may enjoy moderate heat. Force slowly 
till the scapes have had time to push up, 
otherwise the flowers will go blind. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Dry weather will be suitable for most win¬ 
ter operations, such as wheeling, digging, 
trenching, &c.; but, most generally wetness 
prevails at this season, therefore frosty weather 
should be taken advantage of for wheeling 
on soil and manure where wanted. Trenching 
may be proceeded with, provided the ground 
is not deeply frozen—for it is not well to 
trench down masses of frozen soil, as it re¬ 
mains for a long time colder than the sur¬ 
rounding portion, and so long as it is colder it 
is wetter than if it had been of medium 
temperature, for its coldness will produce a 
continuous deposition of moisture. Where 
lumps of frozen soil have been buried, they 
have been seen turned up wet and sour, even 
late in spring, to the disadvantage of the grow¬ 
ing crops. Collect all decaying substances 
for the manure heaps, and these may be turned 
and mixed in wet weather. Forward all 
work that can be done in-doors. Cut and 
prepare Pea sticks ; they are stronger and will 
last much longer than if the cutting were 
delayed till the sap is in active flow in the 
spring. Willoios and Osiers for baskets, and 
for tying, should also be cut before the buds 
push to indicate motion in the sap. Protect 
Endive with flower pots. Parsley , at least a 
portion of the best, should have the protec¬ 
tion of a frame. Draw some earth to Peas ; 
trap mice, and it is recommended to give 
them to a cat on the spot. Sow Radishes 
on light soil on a sheltered border, and cover 
Avith straw or litter, turning it off in the day, 
and replacing it at night. 
ERL'IT GARDEN. 
Trench and prepare ground for planting, 
and proceed with the operation whilst the 
weather continues favourable, not in frosty, 
nor in unseasonably wet weather. Dig the 
holes so as to be as wide at bottom as at top, 
and rather deeper at the outside than in the 
centre ; in other words, the bottom of the hole 
should form a convexity over which the roots 
should be regularly disposed, and the soil 
broken rather finely should be spread over the 
roots by throwing it, not against the fibres, but 
in their direction away from the stem. Hold 
the spade near the stem, and throw the soil 
outwards; this will be right, but do the con¬ 
trary, and be counted as an unskilful 
planter. If water stand in the holes dug for 
fruit trees, drain below the level of the stag¬ 
nant water. Prune all kinds of Fruit trees 
unless the frost be very severe. Cut back 
those kinds intended to be regrafted in spring. 
Scrape, scrub, and wash clean the stems of 
standard trees, on account of insects which 
take refuge in the bark. Prune Currants , 
Raspberries , and Gooseberries. Hoe the soil 
away from the stems of the latter into the 
middle of the space, and there dig it in, for 
this has been proved, from long experience, 
the best plan for keeping clear of caterpillars. 
Prune and nail Wall trees. If the old shreds 
are fit to be used, they should be boiled; and 
the nails should be heated nearly red hot and 
plunged in linseed oil, and then for many 
years they rvill not rust. Nails should be driven 
no farther than to holdsufficientlv, and never 
in the faces of the bricks, as it seriously in¬ 
jures the wall. Keep the fruit room as nearly 
as possible at an equable temperature. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
All vacant ground should be rough-dug, and 
this can be done so as to expose much surface 
to the weather, and yet look by no means 
unsightly. In some cases, as in that of Bed¬ 
ding Pelargoniums , it is beneficial to give the 
soil a coat of manure before digging it OA r er, 
Deciduoiis shrubs pruned now, make stronger 
shoots than if not shortened till a consider¬ 
able portion of sap has mounted up in spring, 
and is then done away Avith, for in this case the 
plant is totally deprived of the vigour em¬ 
bodied in a considerable portion of elaborated 
sap, the result of the action of some weeks of 
summer’s sun. Hardy Roses may be pruned 
now; but if any are desired to flower late they 
had better be allowed to push before pruning 
in spring. Deprived thus of their forward 
shoots, some time must elapse before fresh 
buds can push, and a later blossoming follows. 
Prune deciduous Hedges —thin at top to pre¬ 
vent them from becoming naked at bottom. 
Prepare composts by turning, and mixing, and 
exposing to frost to ameliorate the various 
soils. 
FLORISTS’ FLOAA'ERS. 
Auriculas. —Very little water, but plenty 
of air should be given; keep clean of decayed 
leaves and green fly. Loosen the surface soil, 
but not so deeply as to disturb the roots. If 
frosts are likely to be seA r ere, a slight covering 
at night will be necessary. Carnations and 
Picotees. —Keep the pits or frames as open as 
possible, the plants will require water but 
very seldom; too much water without suffi¬ 
cient air is sure to prove injurious, as spotting 
Avill be the result. Cut away decayed foliage. 
Dahlias. —Cut off decaying parts, and dry the 
roots. They must be placed out of the reach 
of frost. Pansies. —Those in pots must have 
plenty of light and air; the lights should 
even be taken off when the weather will per¬ 
mit. Cuttings that are being struck should 
have Avater very sparingly, or they will be 
liable to damp off. Tulips. —These being now 
under ground, the beds may be exposed to all 
weather, with the exception of \ r ery heavy 
rains. 
