EAMMS Bu*»fn. Vokjim SO 7. 
7000 
Thr next day wc had our bags packed 
ready lor a 4:30 a m start, quirk 
breakfast, and on the road There was 
a lengthy stop at thr barrier, then a 
ponderous start as the convoy formed 
and motored on. The broken tarmac 
forced us onto the corrugated dirt 
track alongside Our heads nodded 
away the kilometres to I.odwur as the 
landscape became more and more 
harrrn. more moon-sc ape-like, and 
ever hotter There were luke-warrn 
sodas in the noisy patio of a local 
dive Then we met up with the Jade 
Sea bus which led 
us to a discreet 
p a I m - I i n e d 
compound where 
we were serves! 
soup and an 
excellent buffet 
lunch under t he 
shade. 
At Kalokol 
curious children 
• rowdrd c lose, their goats and camels 
in the background, as we prepared to 
embark on two open boats with 
enormous outboard engines. We 
exclaimed at our first sightings of 
water-birds and listed many, as our 
hags were enclosed in waterproof 
canvas and the paraphernalia oi 
camping was loaded on. 
There was a short trip to the Fishing 
Lodge to purchase tickets tor Central 
Island, dodging fish nets on the way. 
One boar snarled its engine Then we 
were off again the bow rising above 
rhe little waves and crashing down. 
sending up welcome spray to cool us 
There was silence as we savoured the 
hour-lung journey, watching the two 
humps of Central Island approach, 
wondering where the craters were 
We lugged our luggage up the sandy 
beach, and then, hastily changed and 
headed back to the water strange, 
soapy, and almost slimy. Wavelets 
trashed on us. we painfully stubbed 
toes on the pebbles, but it was oh so 
refreshing! We heard warning shouts 
trom the shore to watch our for 
i rocodilcs. but none appeared to spoil 
our lun. 
My rhr rime we 
had dried, 
col leered our 
mattresses and 
naked our 
claims to 
patches ol sand 
on the beach, 
the tun was 
dipping in the 
west in a 
glorious display of oranges, greys and 
blues We lav on our backs, watching 
the %rar% appear and listening to Fleur 
as she pouucd out Orion's belt, the 
dog scar, the southern cross. Satellites 
darted busily across the sky. and the 
occasional meteorite distracted us. 
Then the lull moon rose in the cast, 
the stars laded, and supper was ready. 
It was another early start in the boars 
to a small beat h towered over by 
rocks. An Egyptian Vulture soared 
above, as we stumbled up a tiny scree 
to rhe rim of the first crater 
