60 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGHST. 
[ March, 
and the stock of plants limited, some strong young plants may now be taken up 
with a ball from the open ground, potted and placed under glass at once. These, 
if taken up carefully and potted in rich soil, will usually produce a good crop. 
Melons: Attend to the linings, and maintain a top-heat of 70°; earth up the 
plants as they advance in growth, adding a little by degrees. Pinch out the 
points of the leading shoots, when they have reached nearly across the bed, and 
thin and stop all others just above the show for fruit, i.e., the fruit-blossom. Air 
freely in good weather, but close the frames early in the afternoon. 
Hardy Fruits: If any work in this department advised last month re¬ 
mains undone, it should be proceeded with at once. Mulch all newly-planted 
trees; also those in a weakly condition. Plant Strawberries , and use the hoe 
frequently in dry weather round the plants in the fruiting-beds. Prune Filberts 
as soon as the blossoms are visible ; shorten or cut out all shoots that do not 
show for fruit, and keep the main branches thin. Graft Plums and Cherries , 
also Pears , Apples , &c., at the end of the month. Head down at once large trees 
that are intended to be grafted this season. Attend to the protection of Peach 
and Apricot blossoms. Give air daily in bright weather to Orchard-houses and 
glass-cases, closing early in the afternoon if any appearance of frost; keep the 
houses dry and airy while the trees are in bloom.—J. Powell, Frogmore. 
VEGETABLES. 
March is, perhaps, one of the busiest months in the kitchen garden proper. 
The ground should have all been dug or trenched, and hence should now be in 
readiness for the bulk of sowing operations—this more especially after the first 
two or three weeks. We do not advise too early sowing, because very harsh 
weather is sometimes experienced during the first two weeks in April, and it is 
not advisable by sowing too early in March to have the tender seedling plants just 
through the ground under such conditions, running the unnecessary risk of a 
severe check. Where the ground has been long dug up and become surface-bound 
by snow and frost, it may be well to lighten it up again. Heavy soils may be 
neatly fork-dug, so as to disintegrate all large clods, &c., packing it up lightly, 
and leaving it to dry. Light soils, no matter how long they may have been dug 
or trenched, will at the most only need to have their surface slightly freshened 
up. Should a wet period occur about the time indicated, do not by any means 
attempt to sow the seeds; but if u March dust ” then prevails, use the utmost 
despatch to get in all such things as second-crop Peas , Broad Beans , Spinach , 
Lettuce , Endive , Parsley , &c.; such main crops as Onions , Parsnips , Carrots, &c.; 
and an early sowing of Beet , Brussels Sprouts , Coleworts , Cabbage, Savoy , Early 
Broccoli (Snow’s, Walcheren, Grange’s, &c.), and Turnips (Early Stone or American 
Strap-leaved Bed). Sow in the main moderately shallow, as it is neither natural 
nor desirable to sow any such seeds deeply. Work the soil freely about and around 
the seeds, and have instant resort to the customary means to protect them from 
birds and other enemies. 
Autumn-sown Cauliflowers must receive an increased supply of air, by 
removing all kinds of protection entirely by day, and only half covering them by 
night during all fine and moderately fine weather. Bring the planting of Jerusalem 
Artichokes, Globe Artichokes , Horse-radish , Seakale, Asparagus , Potatos (early), 
Onions (Tripoli), &c., to a close by the end of the month. Make fresh beds or 
plantations of all permanent kinds of Herbs, such as Sage, Thyme , Tarragon , 
Mint , Winter Savory , fyc.; and in all instances where, owing to the youth or 
thriftiness of existing beds, this may not be deemed necessary, give to such as 
were not mulched according to the conventional way in the autumn, a good 
