74 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
[ April, 
stock, in order to assist to draw up the sap until the grafts became more fully estab¬ 
lished, when it was intended to cut them away. Soon after growth commenced, 
however, some faint signs of variegation became apparent, and the shoots were 
allowed to remain. The result is, that the whole of the shoots which have 
broken out near to the grafts have become beautifully spotted, blotched and 
barred with yellow, the markings being similar to those which occur in the scion. 
The two forms growing together, and presenting such a wide contrast in the size 
and outline of their leaves, are very attractive and ornamental. 
These plants have now been established for upwards of' twelve months, and 
have formed good round heads. Plants treated in this manner will have a good 
effect through the summer and autumn months, either placed in sub-tropical 
beds, or used as single plants in sheltered places on the turf.—J. Webster, 
Gordon Castle. 
THE PREMATURE DROPPING OF PEACH AND 
NECTARINE BLOSSOMS. 
HAT Peach and Nectarine blossoms not unfrequently fall prematurely will 
Aife/ readily be admitted by most horticulturists who have had much to do with 
f their culture under glass. It is not always easy, often very difficult, to 
account for this in a satisfactory manner. In trying to discover the 
causes, for there are many, we should never forget that, by placing Peach and 
Nectarine trees under glass, we remove them beyond the reach of natural pheno¬ 
mena necessary for their very existence, and that, consequently, their numerous 
wants must be artificially supplied, success or failure in their culture depending 
on whether this is intelligently done or otherwise. It is not my intention at 
present to enter into any lengthened details as to their general management, but 
simply and very shortly to point out what I believe to be some of the causes 
which lead to the premature dropping of Peach and Nectarine blossoms, and to 
suggest some remedies. 
Much of the success of Peach and Nectarine culture depends on the forma¬ 
tion of the border in which they are planted. In some favoured localities, where 
an open, dry subsoil exists, little requires to be done. Where, however, the subsoil 
is retentive, wet, and cold, or where oxide of iron or other poisonous ingredients 
abound, it is always safe to concrete about 3 ft. 6 in. deep. Allow a few inches 
of fall to the outside ; place on the concrete parallel rows of 3-in. tile pipes, 
about 4 ft. asunder, connecting them with a drain outside the border, to run off 
the superfluous water; cover the concrete with about 6 in. of broken stones, 
brick-bats, clinkers, or similar material; place on these 2 ft. or 3 ft. of good 
hazelly turfy loam, mixed with half-inch bones, in the proportion of half a ton 
to an ordinary-sized peach-house—say about 30 ft. in length ; and then you have 
a border which, if the general management is good, will not fail to set and 
mature heavy crops of fine fruit. 
I would here remark that, when duo attention has been paid to tho selection 
