1875. ] 
GARDEN WORK FOR JULY. 
153 
It would be gratifying to many readers of the Pomologist if some of our 
successful growers of early fruit would give their experience in regard to using 
warm material over the roots of Vines and Peaches, and the time between 
starting the house and the ripening of the fruit. With two early Peach-houses 
under my charge, my experience has this season been much like that of Mr. 
Henderson with his Vines. An early house which appeared to be in promising 
condition had a quantity of litter placed over the roots in an outside border last 
October, and the house was started some time in November, and treated in the 
usual way. The buds, which at first seemed plump and likely to open well, 
almost disappeared altogether, and no signs of life were exhibited till the new 
year, when the flower-buds swelled, opened, and set, without loss from any of 
them dropping. The foliage came large, and the wood stiff and short-jointed, and 
it is at present very promising. About six weeks after that house was started, a 
second one had the roots covered, and the structure was closed ; the result was 
that the second one out-distanced the first by six weeks or more, and in the 
first week in May ripened a very fine crop. The material over the roots was 
never warm. It appears to me that the roots of the first started house were active ; 
and when covered after the long dry season, the border being intensely hot, and 
having been well watered by copious showers of rain, the covering of litter must 
have made it like a hot-bed: hence the growth of roots minus tops.—M. Temple, 
Blenheim. 
GARDEN WORK FOR JULY. 
FLOWERS. 
^LOWER-GARDENS will now be gay and interesting. The majority of the 
Clftp plants should be thoroughly established, and in order to insure that con- 
tinuity of blossom which is so desirable, yet somewhat difficult of realisa- 
YQ* tion, owing to the complexity of the subjects employed, it is necessary to 
exercise vigilance and discrimination, with which, and watchfulness as to watering, 
&c., much may be accomplished. The mulching of all moisture-loving subjects, 
as previously directed, will save much labour in watering. The best time for 
watering exposed plants during hot dry sunny weather is, doubtless, the evening, 
when the power of the sun has abated. Watering unskilfully performed often 
does more harm than good. Keep Calceolarias , Verbenas , Violas , and Clematises 
well supplied with water at the root, for unless this is attended to, perfect 
healthfulness cannot be looked for. Dahlias and Hollyhocks must from time to 
time be examined and tied up as they progress in growth, frequently dusting 
around the stems with soot and lime, to keep off the slugs. If the plants are not 
already mulched with rotten manure, it should be seen to at once, as no amount 
of watering will insure the same successful results if this is neglected. Border- 
plants will require staking, supporting them in as natural a position as possible; 
the usual method of binding them up like sheaves is to be avoided. Carnations 
and Picotees will require shading from bright sunshine when intended for exhibi¬ 
tion purposes, and should be freely disbudded if fine flowers are desired, keeping 
the plants moist at the roots, and layering them as soon as the shoots are of suf¬ 
ficient strength to handle. Finish the propagation of Pinks , either by layering or 
