206 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
[ September, 
will .prove serviceable in combination ; if grown in pots throughout the summer, 
they will now be coming into bloom. The earliest section of the Chrysanthemums 
should at once be placed under glass to forward their flowering. Tea Boses that 
have been grown on and pinched frequently back will produce an abundance of 
fragrant blossoms for conservatory decoration at this season. Griffinia liyacinthina 
is also a most desirable decorative plant for autumn display, while the lovely 
Vallota purpurea, with the more general blooming plants of this season, and some 
of the fine-foliage plants, judiciously placed, -will combine to present a fresh and 
pleasing display. The growth upon roof climbers should be regulated so as to 
admit a sufficiency of light to the plants underneath. The shading should be 
used only to subdue direct sunshine : in fact, it may almost be dispensed with. 
Fuchsias should now be propagated for growing on during the winter. When 
so grown, they form famous plants early in the season, and are useful for 
decorative purposes. Give attention to the late-blooming varieties that have 
been grown out-of-doors ; these, if liberally treated now, will produce their blooms 
until late in the autumn. 
Chrysanthemums that are intended to be potted up from the borders should 
be lifted towards the end of the month and placed in a shady situation, freely 
sprinkling them overhead until they take fresh hold. Give attention to the 
tying-up of established plants, and encourage with liberal applications of manure- 
water. 
Greenhouses: As the majority of the plants must be housed during the month, 
these structures should have a thorough cleansing preparatory to being refilled; 
each plant should be individually examined and cleansed as it is brought in. 
Watering must be judiciously performed at the root, and an abundance of air 
given, so as to thoroughly ripen the wood. Camellias should have an abundance 
of air both night and day, and must not be allowed to become dry at the root, as 
any sudden check at the stage of bud-swelling is certain to cause the buds to 
drop; keep the foliage thoroughly clean by sponging with water in which a little 
soap is dissolved. 
Orchids : Many of these, which make growth freely during the autumn months, 
are apt to be restricted prematurely at this season by sudden exposure; this is 
more particularly the case when house-room is limited, as plants that are finishing 
growth require less water and less atmospheric moisture, with a freer ventilation 
and more exposure than is conducive to the promotion of active growth; in as 
far as possible, these conditions must be provided for in each case. Dendrobium 
nobile should ripen its growth in a light, fully exposed situation, gradually with¬ 
holding water and reducing the temperature, which will induce the setting of the 
buds; when thoroughly matured, this is one of the most valuable winter-blooming 
plants we possess. 
Stoves: Slight fires will now be necessary, in order to thoroughly ripen the 
wood before the winter; abundance of air must therefore be given, and the 
plants kept drier both at root and top. Watering should be attended to in the 
morning, which will prevent undue humidity when the house is shut up. Thin- 
out the wood upon roof climbers and keep them within bounds, so that they 
intercept the light as little as possible. Winter-blooming plants must be kept near 
to the glass and freely ventilated, so as to encourage thorough maturation. 
Push forward the propagation of Bedding Plants, and continue to pot off cuttings 
as they become sufficiently rooted. Propagate Violas in a cold frame under a 
north wall; so far, they are our most effective blooming plants this season. Fully 
expose this class of plants when grown in frames as long as possible, as stocky 
firmly-grown plants will be found to winter best. Thin out Mignonette , and sow 
