250 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
[November, 
should be protected with a slight covering of leaf-soil or decomposed loam. Fern 
may be placed over the beds during severe frosts, but it is necessary to guard 
against weakening the plants by drawing, and such protection is sometimes in¬ 
jurious by generating damp ; an inch-and-a-half of leaf-soil is perhaps the best 
and only necessary protector. 
The Anemones are so closely allied to the Ranunculus, that they may be 
treated" almost in the same way, but being hardier, the whole should be planted 
in autumn. In planting, cover the roots about three inches in depth. Dahlias 
should be lifted as soon as the tops are destroyed by frost, cutting short the 
stems; and when the roots are properly dried they should be stored away in a 
cool place free from frost, yet where they are not likely to shrivel. 
Shrubberies: Transplant and prune deciduous trees and shrubs as soon as 
their leaves have fallen ; and what planting of Evergreens may yet remain to be 
done during autumn should be seen to at once, as they do not succeed so well 
when transplanted during the dormant winter months. Take advantage of 
favourable weather to carry out premeditated ground-work alterations. Levelling 
and turfing repairs may also receive attention. Frequently roll lawns, to keep 
under worm-casts. 
Roses should be lifted as soon as the leaves have fallen, but never previously, 
as they are apt to loose by evaporation, and consequent shrivelling of the bark; 
more particularly is this destructive when they are exposed during long journeys. 
In preparing ground for Roses, let it be trenched 2^ft.'deep, and well incorporated 
with a liberal dressing of manure to the full depth of the soil, adding fresh heavy 
loam when the soil is light. Plantations that are in an unhealthy state should 
be lifted, shortening back the roots and replanting firmly in fresh soil. Standards 
should at once be staked. Brier Stocks should now be planted, as well as cuttings 
of Manetti for budding. 
Conservatory: At present Chrysanthemums will form one of the chief features 
of attraction. They soon succumb in a close, warm atmosphere, and require a 
situation where air can be given freely at every favourable opportunity, for unless 
they can be freely exposed to air they are liable to be attacked by mildew. 
Salvia splendens is one of the most effective decorative plants at the present 
season, associating well with the Chrysanthemums. Calanthes will now be in 
bloom, and are second to none as graceful, decorative plants ; with moderate 
watering, and a temperature not under 50° at night, they last a length of time 
in bloom. I find the Hybrid Veronicas most effective conservatory plants 
throughout the autumn ; plants that are rooted this autumn, and either planted 
out or grown in pots during the summer months, make profuse-blooming plants 
at this season. V. imperialism amaranth-red, is a very desirable variety ; and 
V. rubra-superba , magenta, with yellow anthers, is very effective ; as is V. rosea 
elegans , and the varieties of V. Andersoni. Keep the foliage of Camellias and 
Orange-trees perfectly clean, for besides the brighter appearance they present, it 
is beneficial to health. Moderate the use of fire-heat as far as may be consistent 
with the health of the majority of the plants employed. 
Greenhouse: Frequently examine those plants which are liable to suffer from 
mildew and damp. LeschenaultiaSm Boronias , Eutaxias , Pimeleas , <fcc., are suscep¬ 
tible of injury from cold, cutting currents ; and where they have to be wintered 
in the same house with a miscellaneous assortment of plants, it becomes more 
difficult to afford them a suitable temperature ; dust with sulphur to keep under 
mildew, admitting air freely whenever the weather permits ; anything like indis¬ 
criminate watering must be avoided. Liliums should be potted at once, using 
thoroughly drained pots for those of the speciosum type. I have found a com- 
