Note  and  Comment. 
A  FRIEND  gives  in  this  issue  the  first  of  a  series  of 
three  letters  on  eastern  North  Carolina  as  it  ap¬ 
peal’s  to  Northern  eyes.  Her  visit  being  made  to  rela¬ 
tives  in  the  State,  there  will  be  no  shadow  of  criticism, 
but  only  the  friendliest  of  interest.  Outsiders  often 
see  points  of  interest  which  do  not  appear  to  eyes  too 
well  used  to  them  to  be  of  any  interest  whatever. 
The  present  letter  touches  upon  flowers  ;  others  will 
give  a  bit  of  the  home  life  and  cookery,  and  a  look  at 
the  schools.  #  #  # 
Apropos  of  the  craving  for  salad  lore  on  the  part  of 
one  of  our  subscribers,  the  following  will  perhaps  be 
appreciated  : 
A  contributor  to  The  R.  N.-Y.,  whose  humorous 
sense  of  the  fitness  of  things  is  plainly  set  forth  by  her 
action,  sent  to  the  Chief  Cook,  at  Christmas  time,  a 
dainty  booklet.  This  booklet,  “  A  Christmas  Salad,” 
all  dressed  in  lettuce  green  and  shaped  like  a  salad 
leaf,  contained  an  illustrated  version  of  Sydney  Smith’s 
famous  Epicurean  deliverance  on  the  subject  of  salads. 
This  is  not  new,  but  many  of  our  readers  may  have 
missed  seeing  it.  Thus  the  booklet : 
To  make  this  condiment,  your  poet  begs 
The  pounded  yellows  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs; 
Two  boiled  potatoes,  passed  thro’  kitchen  sieve 
Smoothness  and  softness  to  the  salad  give. 
I.et  onion  atoms  lurk  within  the  bowl, 
And,  half  suspected,  animate  the  whole. 
Of  mordant  mustard  use  a  single  spoon; 
Distrust  the  condiment  that  bites  so  soon. 
But  deem  it  not,  thou  man  of  herbs,  a  fault 
To  add  a  double  quantity  of  salt. 
And  lastly,  o’er  the  flavor’d  compound  toss 
A  magic  soup<;on  of  anchovy  sauce. 
Oli,  green  and  glorious;  oh,  herbaceous  treat! 
’Twould  tempt  the  dying  anchorite  to  eat. 
Serenely  full,  the  epicure  would  say: 
“  Pate  cannot  harm  me;  I  have  dined  to-day.” 
“  But,”  said  a  contributor  to  the  Chief  Cook  a  short 
time  since,  “  I  don’t  agree  with  everything  I  see  in 
The  Rural,  and  I  don’t  see  how  you  can.  For  instance, 
that  fussing  to  spread  newspapers  everywhere,  in 
order  to  save  getting  the  floor  soiled  when  dirty  work 
is  going  on.  Don’t  you  think  that  would,  in  the  end, 
be  more  trouble  than  it  would  be  to  clean  up  when  one 
had  finished  ?” 
Not  the  question  itself,  but  the  thought  which 
prompted  it,  is  the  compelling  text  for  this  comment. 
It  seems  to  be  thoroughly  ingrained  into  the  ideas  of 
many  readers,  that  whatever  is  published  in  a  paper 
is,  as  a  matter  of  course,  commended  by  the  editors 
thereof.  So  much  is  this  the  case,  that  as  a  matter  of 
self-defence  many  editorial  columns  are  prefaced  by  a 
standing  notice  that  the  editors  are  responsible  for  no 
statements  but  those  made  editorially. 
*  *  * 
The  II.  N.-Y.  is  a  great  believer  in  discussion  as  a 
means  of  bringing  out  helpful  ideas.  A  little  thought 
will  show  any  one  that  if  it  were  to  be  insisted  upon 
that  all  ideas  expressed  must  agree  with  those  which 
the  editors  hold,  there  could  be  no  discussion  ;  it  Would 
be  summarily  killed,  for  every  thing  said  must  be  on 
one  side  of  the  question,  whatever  it  might  be.  Much 
that  is  given  in  the  household  columns  of  The  R.  N.-Y. 
is  given  for  the  purpose  of  stimulating  thought  and 
experiment.  The  teacher  who  leads  a  pupil  to  think, 
does  far  more  for  him  than  could  be  done  by  merely 
filling  his  mind  with  facts,  be  they  ever  so  interesting 
and  helpful.  Thus,  too,  The  R.  N.-Y.,  if  it  can  stimu¬ 
late  thought,  implant  new  ideas  or  encourage  experi¬ 
ment,  even  by  giving  place  to  articles  with  which  it 
has  no  real  sympathy,  will  feel  that  it  has  done  the 
best  that  is  possible  to  it  for  its  subscribers. 
General  and  Particular  Salad  Lore. 
i  4  T  17  ILL  some  one  kindly  give  explicit  directions 
V  V  for  preparing  salads,  through  the  columns 
of  The  R.  N.-Y.  for  the  benefit  of  those  who  have  had 
no  experience  in  the  matter — say,  lobster,  salmon,  and 
the  like,  being  exact  about  proportions.  I  think  ex¬ 
perienced  housekeepers  are  apt  to  take  too  much  for 
granted  as  regards  the  knowledge  of  the  learner  on 
what  seems  to  be  plain  to  them.  Most  salad  recipes 
begin  thus  :  ‘  Take  any  good,  plain  salad  di’essing,’ 
etc.  In  all  probability  a  ‘  good,  plain  salad  dressing  ’ 
is  ‘  Greek’  to  the  inquirer.”  perplexity. 
First,  a  few  general  rules  may  be  formulated  for  our 
correspondent  and  the  many  whose  need  she  voices. 
Afterward,  detailed  methods,  and  a  few  recipes,  gath¬ 
ered  partly  through  experience,  partly  from  various 
housekeeping  sources,  will,  we  hope,  make  the  whole 
subject  of  salads  so  plain  that  all  who  read  may  feel 
fully  conversant  with  it: 
1 .  It  is  universally  admitted  that  the  dressing  makes 
the  salad. 
2.  Dressings  consist  of  condiments,  sugar,  egg,  oil 
(or  butter  or  cream)  and  lemon  juice  or  vinegar,  com¬ 
bined  in  various  degrees  of  elaboration. 
3.  Mix  first  the  dry  ingredients,  then  add  the  eggs, 
then  oil  and  vinegar,  alternately  and  very  slowly. 
(This  order  is  sometimes  disputed.) 
4.  Use  but  one  kind  of  vegetable  at  a  time  for  a  vege¬ 
table  salad. 
5.  Make  the  salad  cold,  and  serve  very  cold. 
6.  Garnish  with  something  that  affords  a  pretty  con¬ 
trast,  and  that  may  be  served  and  eaten  with  the  salad, 
if  possible. 
Simple  Dressings. — Perhaps  some  reader  may  smile 
at  the  thought  of  vinegar  alone  as  a  salad  dressing  ; 
yet  some  people  regard  cucumbers  with  vinegar,  or 
lettuce  with  vinegar,  as  a  salad  ;  thus  vinegar  may  be 
regarded  as  the  simplest  form  of  salad  dressing.  Next 
to  this  comes  the  combination  of  vinegar  with  butter. 
This  may  be  made  in  any  proportion  suited  to  the  indi¬ 
vidual  taste.  A  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg  to  a 
pint  of  vinegar  is  an  average  proportion,  perhaps. 
This  makes  an  excellent  simple  dressing  for  thinly- 
sliced  potatoes,  cold  beans,  or  any  vegetable  that  may 
be  desirable  as  a  simple  appetizer  for  the  luncheon  or 
the  farm  tea-table.  The  general  rule  is  reversed  by 
pouring  this,  while  boiling  hot,  over  the  salad,  which 
is,  however,  to  be  served  as  cold  as  may  be.  Left-overs 
from  dinners  may  be  prepared  at  once  for  the  supper 
table,  and  put  away  to  cool  while  the  housewife  takes 
her  rest,  with  the  feeling  that  there  is  one  thing  to  de¬ 
pend  on  for  supper,  even  if  unexpected  visitors  make 
their  appearance. 
Cream  Dressing. — Many  people  do  not  like  oil,  or 
think  they  do  not.  For  such  there  is  a  delightful 
cream  dressing,  which  is  good  with  every  kind  of 
salad,  and  which  may  be  kept  several  days  in  a  cool 
place,  in  reserve  for  unexpected  needs.  The  ingredi- 
ients  are  :  one-half  cupful  each  of  butter  and  cream  ; 
one-quarter  cupful  of  sugar ;  three-quarters  pint  of 
vinegar  ;  two  eggs  ;  one  teaspoonful  each  of  salt  and 
mustard  ;  a  tiny  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper.  Place  the 
vinegar  and  butter  over  the  fire  in  a  granite  saucepan. 
While  it  heats,  mix  the  dry  ingredients,  and  add  to 
them  the  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  beating  thoroughly. 
When  the  vinegar  boils  sharply,  pour  it  over  the  egg 
mixture,  stirring  with  the  utmost  care  as  you  pour  ;  re¬ 
turn  to  the  fire  and  bring  just  to  the  boiling  point ; 
add  the  cream  last.  To  secure  a  smooth,  uncurdled 
dressing  is  the  aim  of  the  salad  maker.  If  this  dress¬ 
ing  boils,  or  if  it  is  not  constantly  stirred,  it  may 
curdle.  Slight  variations  may  be  made  in  this  recipe. 
The  cream  may  be  omitted  if  not  at  hand ;  or,  if  it  be 
desired  to  use  the  dressing  upon  shredded  cabbage, 
the  quantity  of  sugar  may  be  doubled,  and  a  level 
tablespoonful  of  corn-starch  added  for  thickening. 
Boiled  Dressing. — Miss  Cannell.  teacher  in  the  Bos¬ 
ton  Y.  W.  C.  A.  Cooking  School,  is  authority  for  this 
dressing,  somewhat  similar  to  the  above :  Mix  one 
teaspoonful  of  mustard,  two  of  salt,  one-quarter  salt- 
spoonful  of  cayenne,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  ;  stir 
three  egg  yolks  into  these  ;  then  add  two  tablespoon¬ 
fuls  of  melted  butter  (or  oil),  a  little  at  a  time,  beating 
as  it  is  added,  and  thickens.  Then  add  one  cupful  of 
milk  or  cream  ;  then  one-half  cupful  of  vinegar, 
slowly,  as  at  this  point  it  may  curdle.  Next  add  the 
stiftiy-beaten  whites  of  three  eggs,  and  cook  in  a 
double  boiler  until  like  soft  custard. 
If  one  wishes  to  be  fashionable,  however,  one  must 
use  a  Mayonnaise  dressing  ;  the  very  name  carries  the 
weight  of  authority.  Doubtless  one’s  social  standing 
would  be  rated  several  degrees  higher  through  being 
an  expert  in  the  concoction  of  a  Mayonnaise  !  Yet  the 
Mayonnaise  has  as  manj'  formulas,  it  is  said,  as  there 
are  ways  of  cooking  eggs. 
Mayonnaise  Dressing. — The  adjective  is  probably 
from  a  Provencal  word  meaning  to  mix  a  salad  ;  the 
proportions  vary  greatly  in  various  recipes,  but  a  study 
of  general  rule  No.  3  will  give  a  very  good  idea  of  the 
usual  method  of  procedure.  The  rule  for  cold  mate¬ 
rials  and  utensils  must  be  insisted  on  here,  as  also  the 
deliberateness  in  adding  the  oil  and  vinegar.  The 
materials  required  are  two  egg  yolks,  raw  ;  three  gills 
of  purest  olive  oil ;  one  teaspoonful  each  of  mustard 
and  salt  (the  same  of  powdered  sugar,  if  desired)  two 
tablespoonfuls  each  of  lemon  juice  and  vinegar  ;  one- 
quarter  saltspoonful  of  Cayenne  pepper.  Stir  with  a 
wooden  or  silver  spoon.  Mix  the  dry  materials,  incor¬ 
porate  with  them  the  egg  yolks,  stirring  until  satin- 
smooth  :  then  add  the  oil,  a  drop  at  a  time,  stirring 
until  the  mass  thickens  into  a  ball.  Then  begin  add¬ 
ing  lemon  juice  and  oil  alternately  and  a  few  drops  at 
a  time,  until  the  lemon  is  used  ;  then  use  the  vinegar 
in  the  same  way.  A  half  teaspoonful  of  the  unbeaten 
white  stirred  in  will  sometimes  correct  a  possible 
tendency  to  curdle.  Mayonnaise  is  not  to  be  mixed 
with  the  salad  until  just  before  serving,  lest  it  become 
liquid.  It  is  said  that  four  tablespoonfuls  of  whipped 
cream,  added  in  the  morning  to  this  Mayonnaise  made 
overnight,  will  correct  the  oily  flavor  so  distasteful  to 
many.  Here  gourmands  use  the  Mayonnaise  dressing 
in  every  possible  way.  Properly,  it  is  better  confined 
to  meats,  and  possibly  fish,  although  it  suits  both 
cauliflowers  and  tomatoes.  Authorities  tell  us  that 
across  the  water  they  serve  French  dressing  (two  parts 
oil,  one  of  vinegar  and  lemon  juice  ;  salt,  pepper,  and 
onion  juice  if  desired,  mixed  as  according  to  general 
rule  No.  3)  with  fish  and  fowl,  and  also  with  most 
vegetables.  The  omission  of  the  egg  and  the  hot 
condiments  makes  a  cheaper  and  a  more  healthful 
dressing  for  every-day  use.  Having  a  good  dressing 
one  can  hardly  fail  to  obtain  a  palatable  salad,  by  mix¬ 
ing  it  with  any  cold  remnants  of  meats  or  vegetables, 
or  both  ;  but  yve  give  one  or  two  definite  recipes. 
Fish  Salad. — One  quart  of  any  cold  flaked  fish, 
mixed  with  yolks  of  three  hard-boiled  eggs  ;  remove 
the  skin  from  two  or  three  sardines,  rub  them  smooth, 
add  them  to  the  boiled  dressing  given  above,  and  pour 
over  the  fish.  Garnish  with  celery  plumes,  the  whites 
of  the  eggs,  or  beets  cut  in  fancy  shapes. 
Salmon  Salad. — One  pound  of  cold,  boiled  salmon 
or  an  equal  quantity  of  canned  salmon.  Pick  the  fish 
into  fine  flakes,  mix  it  with  one-third  lettuce  or  celery, 
finely  cut,  and  pour  over  it  “  any  good  salad  dressing.” 
Lobster  Salad. — This  is  sometimes  served  with 
careful  carelessness,  as  follows  :  Wash  sufficient  green 
salad  material,  as  lettuce  (or  any  other  preferred  salad- 
ing),  drain  and  lightly  chop  it.  Place  the  smaller, 
rougher  parts  of  the  lobster  upon  the  lettuce,  pour  the 
dressing  over  it,  and  garnish  with  the  larger  pieces  or 
with  beet  root  or  the  coral.  A  tablespoonful  of 
tarragon  vinegar  is  often  used  to  give  flavor  to  the 
dressing. 
Asparagus  Salad. — Asparagus  will  be  in  season 
before  many  weeks,  and  a  simple  salad  prepared  from 
it  may  form  a  dainty  addition  to  any  preferred  meal. 
Boil  the  stalks  ;  plunge  them  into  ice  water  in  order 
that  they  may  retain  shape  and  color.  Cover  with 
French  dressing,  made  with  lemon  juice  in  place  of 
vinegar. 
Finally,  let  not  the  young  housekeeper  be  afraid  of 
salads.  Let  her  master  the  French  dressing  and  one 
good  recipe  making  use  of  eggs ;  then  let  her  boldly 
try  her  hand  at  making  whatever  remnants  she  may 
have  palatable.  Few  things  are  more  really  helpful 
in  meal-time  emergencies  than  a  knowledge  of  the 
possibilities  of  salads.  Quantity  of  dressing  can  hardly 
be  given  in  connection  with  remnants.  The  fashion¬ 
able  general  rule  is  that  the  dressing  should  not  pre¬ 
dominate,  but  blend  well.  In  fact,  however,  plenty  of 
dressing  makes  a  good  salad. 
The  South  Through  Northern  Eyes. 
FEBRUARY  is  what  I  call  hyacinth  season  here  in 
eastern  North  Carolina.  No  garden  is  complete 
without  a  bed  of  Roman  Hyacinths.  At  this  season 
they  are  in  full  bloom,  and,  with  the  perfume  of  sweet 
violets,  make  the  air  delightful.  The  gardens  with 
their  beds  of  violets,  hyacinths  and,  now  and  then, 
some  snow-drops  and  bright  anemones,  are  a  contrast 
to  our  Northern  bare  and  frozen  grounds.  In  a  few 
days,  if  a  cold  snap  does  not  come,  there  will  be  yellow 
and  white  narcissuses  and  daffodils,  and  soon  the  fruit 
trees  will  be  robed  in  pink  and  white.  If  you  were  in 
the  South  now,  you  would  be  quite  sure  to  hear  some 
Babies  are  always  happy  when  com¬ 
fortable.  They  are  comfortable  when 
well.  They  are  apt  to  be  well  when 
fat ;  they  worry  and  cry  when  thin. 
They  ought  to  be  fat ;  their  nature  is 
to  be  fat. 
If  your  baby  is  thin,  we  have  a  book 
for  you — careful  living — free. 
Scott  &  Bowxe,  Chemists,  132  South  5th  Avenue,  New  York. 
Your  druggist  keeps  Scott’s  Emulsion  of  cod-liver  oil— all  druggiots 
everywhere  do. 
