25o 
April  16 
THE  RURAL  NEW-YORKER. 
sequence  of  his  contemplated  removal  the  hen  build¬ 
ings  at  the  present  location  have  not  been  kept  in  as 
good  repair  as  they  otherwise  would  have  been,  as  the 
tenant  will  have  charge  of  only  300  fowls. 
For  several  years  Mr.  Sid  way  practiced  moving  the 
houses  to  fresh  ground  annually.  No  power  of  ary 
kind  being  provided,  the  grinding  of  grain,  bones  and 
meat  has  not  been  attempted. 
While  there,  a  few'  questions  were  asked  of  the  pro¬ 
prietors  : 
“  Does  it  pay  to  raise  cockerels  and  sell  them  for 
broilers  ?  ” 
“We  cannot  say  that  it  does.  We  think  it  just  as 
profitable  to  pinch  off  the  heads  of  the  young  roosters 
as  soon  as  the  sexes  can  be  distinguished.” 
“  How  do  you  keep  your  fowls  healthy  ?  ” 
“  We  guard  against  lice  by  keeping  the  floors, 
houses,  and  platforms  clean,  and  by  having  two  sets 
of  roosts.  While  the  hens  are  using  one  set,  the  other 
is  out  in  the  air.  The  sun  and  w'eather  soon  rid  it  of 
vermin.  We  do  not  think  kerosene  and  such  washes 
are  very  efficacious.  We  ward  off  roup  by  giving  the 
fowls  turpentine  twice  a  week  in  their  food — say  a  large 
teaspoonful  to  fifty.  The  health  of  the  hens  ia  also 
preserved  by  a  dose  of  copperas  in  the  drinking  water 
twice  a  week — a  teaspoonful  of  the  saturated  solution 
to  a  pail  of  water.  Once  a  week — on  Saturday  nights 
— we  fill  the  drinking  troughs  with  a  milky  solution  of 
lime  ;  this  remains  until  Monday  morning  when  the 
troughs  are  thoroughly  cleansed  after  being  disin¬ 
fected.  The  hens  are  greatly  benefited  by  drinking 
the  lime  water.  Much  the  same  remedies  are  employed 
in  raising  chicks.” 
“  Do  you  use  egg-foods  and  condition  powders  ?” 
“No.  Their  use  has  never  increased  the  egg-yield 
perceptibly,  and  we  consider  an  investment  in  these 
preparations  a  foolish  waste  of  money.” 
“  Until  what  age  do  you  feed  your  fowls  ?  ” 
“  Until  they  are  from  three  to  five  years  or  until  they 
begin  to  look  old.  Some  of  the  old  ones  die  when 
while  those  grown  from  soft  wood,  as  in  Fig.  127  (3),  are 
scarcely  worth  the  setting.  I  regard  the  layer-plants,  as 
in  Fig.  127  (4),  worth  more  than  such  as  are  seen  at  Fig. 
f  27  (2) — single-eye  plants — especially  if  the  plants  are  set 
deep,  say  down  to  the  third  or  fourth  eye  on  the  shoot, 
when  put  in  the  vineyard.  The  French  consider  no 
plants  good  unless  grown  from  very  long  cuttings, 
say  12  to  16  inches. 
The  distinction  between  feeding  and  anchor  roots 
is  an  important  one,  on  which  the  manner  of  propaga¬ 
tion  has  an  essential  bearing;  for  in  the  growing  season 
the  feeding  roots  work  throughout  the  surface  soil, 
consuming  about  all  the  assimilable  grape  food,  and 
-Anchor  and  Surface  Roots.  Fig.  128. 
Vine  trained  on  two  parallel  wires,  A  and  B, 
when  the  ground  is  plowed  or  spaded  over,  and  fer¬ 
tilizers  are  worked  in,  the  feeding  roots  are  greatly 
mangled  and  injured,  and  if  the  vines  have  no  anchor 
roots  they  suffer  greatly  both  from  disturbance  and  in 
severe  droughts. 
The  most  successful  vineyardists  in  hot  climates, 
each  year  at  pruning-time,  trim  away  all  the  last  year’s 
feeding-roots,  as  well  as  superfluous  bearing  wood. 
Then  the  surface  soil  should  be  thoroughly  pulverized 
several  inches  and  fertilizers  be  mixed  in,  so  that  each 
year  the  ground  affords  a  fresh  pasturage  for  the 
young,  thrifty  roots  that  start  from  above  the  anchor 
roots.  If  the  subsoil  isn't  good  and  isn’t  porous,  with 
good  drainage,  trenches  should  be  dug  two  feet  or 
more  deep,  with  slopes,  to  drain  off  the  excess  of  water, 
Munson’s  Method  for  Grape  Cuttings.  Fig.  127. 
1.  Four-eye  cutting  of  mature  wood.  2.  One-eye  cutting  of  mature 
wood.  3.  Green-wood  slip,  started  with  “bottom  heat.  4.  Layer 
plants— to  be  cut  apart  at  A,  B,  C,  D. 
their  usefulness  is  ended,  and  we  select  some  for  sale 
each  fall.” 
Mr.  Sidway’s  poultry  farming  has  paid  and  is  still 
paying  under  the  old  methods.  Honest  eggs,  carefully 
washed  and  packed,  and  square  dealing  form  the  basis 
on  which  his  success  has  been  built  up.  The  question 
is,  would  his  business  not  be  paying  better  now  if 
better  buildings  and  improved  machinery  had  been 
gradually  introduced  ?  Arthur  d.  Warner. 
Making  the  Vineyard. 
THE  QUESTIONS. 
1.  How  do  you  prefer  to  propagate  grape  vines  ? 
2.  At  what  season  do  you  make  cuttings  ? 
3.  Of  what  length  do  you  make  them,  and  when  and  how  do  you 
plant  them  ? 
4.  Do  you  prefer  fall  or  spring  planting  for  vineyards  ? 
5.  What  kind  of  trellis  do  you  prefer  ? 
The  Whole  Story  Well  Told. 
1.  I  prefer  grape  vines  grown  from  mature  or  ripe 
wood,  the  cutting  being  six  to  ten  inches  in  length, 
according  to  the  length  of  the  joints,  including  not  less 
than  three  eyes,  in  preference  to  those  grown  in  layer- 
grown  soft  wood,  one  or  two-eyed  cuttings  or  grafts, 
because  I  get  stronger,  more  symmetrical  plants,  with 
both  deep  anchor  roots  and  feeders  above  ground.  In 
this  climate  (Grayson  County,  Tex.)  a  vine  with  only 
the  surface  feeders,  such  as  most  Labrusca  varieties 
make,  is  feeble  and  short-lived. 
In  the  picture,  Fig.  127,  1,  2 ,  3  and  4  indicate  about 
the  comparative  character  and  relative  strength  of 
plants  grown  from,  1,  a  four-eye  cutting  of  mature 
wood  ;  2,  a  one-eye  cutting  of  mature  wood ;  3,  a 
green- wood  slip,  started  with  “  bottom  heat,”  and,  4, 
layer-plants,  to  be  cut  apart  at  a,  b,  c,  d.  It  is  clear 
that  plant  1,  with  its  anchor  roots,  has  a  decided  ad¬ 
vantage,  especially  in  a  hot,  dry  climate,  over  the 
others,  -with  only  small,  shallow  roots. 
It  is  a  well-known  fact  that  a  vineyard  set  with 
strong,  deeply-rooted  plants  of  any  variety,  when  all 
other  conditions  are  the  same,  stands  a  far  better 
chance  for  profitable  aftergrowth  than  one  set  out 
with  small  or  stunted  plants.  Plants  that  are  grown  as 
in  Fig.  127  ( 1 )  are,  in  my  estimation,  w'orth  more  than 
twice  as  much  as  those  growm  as  in  Fig.  127  (2  and  4)  ; 
SOIL 
•Cl'TiNGS  PLANTED 
'  SURFACE  4QUI--4 
10AMV 
WELL 
puivrmzEr 
•Son¬ 
'S  UB-SOIl’ 
The  Planting  of  Cuttings.  Fig.  129. 
and  the  bottoms  should  be  filled  with  bones,  rotting 
brush  or  logs,  to  serve  as  a  permanent  source  of  food 
for  the  anchor  roots. 
Fig.  128  will  help  to  make  my  ideas  comprehensible. 
A  vineyard  planted  in  this  way,  with  plants  growm 
from  long  cuttings  will,  with  care,  last  indefinitely 
and  bear  heavy  crops  every  year. 
2.  I  prefer  to  make  cuttings  within  one  to  three 
w'eeks  after  the  leaves  have  fallen,  before  the  wood 
has  lost  any  vitality  by  hard  freezing.  Any  tempera¬ 
ture  about  zero,  or  below,  consumes  to  a  large  extent, 
Munson’s  System  for  Training  the  Vine.  Fig.  130. 
mC - z,  luoccuraie  as  snowing  Mr.  Munson  s  systei 
The  reader,  however,  will  see  wherein  it  Is  faultv  bv  the  explanatic 
given  in  the  first  paragraph  of  the  next  column.  The  brace  and  pos 
at  each  end  should  be  two  swinging  posts  of  the  same  length. 
the  vitality  of  even  the  hardiest  species  and  varieties. 
3.  This  question  is  mostly  answered  under  Fig.  127  (1). 
Fig.  129  completes  the  answ'er.  After  they  have  been  put 
up  in  bunches  in  the  fall,  the  cuttings  are  buried  in 
loamy,  well-drained  soil  till  corn  planting  time,  in 
spring,  when  they  are  “  lined-out”  w'ith  a  dibble,  as 
shown  at  Fig.  129. 
4.  In  any  latitude  south  of  35  degrees,  I  prefer  fall 
planting  for  vineyards,  as  well  as  for  orchards. 
5.  After  thoroughly  trying  all  the  trellises  commonly 
in  use,  I  have  discarded  all  as  more  or  less  unnatural 
to  the  habit  of  vine-growth.  The  canopy,  to  shade  the 
roots  body  and  fruit  from  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun, 
is  Nature’s  plan.  When  that  is  modified  to  prevent 
matting,  and  to  secure  a  perfect  balance  between  root 
and  top  to  prevent  over-loading  w;th  fruit,  one  has 
perfect  training.  After  a  most  thorough  test  of  a  very 
simple  trellis,  somewhat  different  from  that  used  by  a 
few  vineyardists,  I  am  fully  convinced  that  it  gives  the 
best  results  with  the  least  outlay  of  material  and  labor, 
for  our  American  grapes,  which  need  long-arm  prun¬ 
ing. 
This  system  consists  of  two  posts  seven  feet  long,  set 
two  feet  deep  in  the  same  hole,  with  tops  flaring  apart 
two  feet ;  a  pair  being  set  at  each  end  of  each  row  and 
midway  between  every  third  and  fourth  vine,  thus 
leaving  three  vines  eight  feet  apart,  as  I  plant  com¬ 
mon  kinds  between  each  pair  of  posts.  A  No.  11  gal¬ 
vanized  wire  is  stapled  on  the  tops  of  the  posts,  making 
two  strands  stretching  along  each  row,  in  a  parallel 
way  two  feet  apart  at  the  same  height  from  the  ground 
— five  feet,  as  shown  inaccurately  in  Fig.  130. 
The  vines  are  shown  as  pruned  with  two  arms  and 
tied,  at  the  end  of  the  second  year.  As  the  vines  get 
stronger,  more  arms,  even  up  to  four  for  each  vine 
(one  four  feet  long  for  each  wire),  or  two  of  greater 
length  (say  up  to  eight  feet  each),  trained  S-fashion 
from  wire  to  wire,  to  suit  the  trainer’s  fancy,  or  the 
amount  of  bearing  wood  possessed  and  capable  of 
being  utilized  to  advantage  by  the  vine.  Looking 
down  upon  the  trellis  when  the  vine  is  pruned  and  tied, 
it  might  present  the  various  aspects  shown  at  Fig.  131. 
The  young  shoots  that  are  to  bear  fruit  the  next 
year,  should  always  be  induced  to  start  in  sufficient 
numbers  near  the  summit  of  the  upright  part  or 
body  of  the  vine,  so  as  to  allow  all  the  old  w’ood  that 
has  borne,  to  be  cut  away  back  to  the  new  shoots. 
Remembering  always  that  American  grapes  bear 
better  on  the  long  arms  than  on  the  short,  one  to  three- 
eye  spurs,  the  rule  should  be  a  few  strong  long 
arms,  and  not  many  short,  weak  spurs,  as  the  old 
systems  induced. 
This  system  of  training  has  among  others  the  follow¬ 
ing  advantages:  1.  It  keeps  the  sun  from  baking  the 
roots,  bodies  and  fruit.  2.  It  costs  little  in  material 
and  labor  to  prune  and  train  the  vines.  3.  It  affords  free 
ventilation  below  the  fruit,  leaving  it  hanging  free  in 
XTYDCYT 
Training  Vines  on  the  Trellis.  Fig.  131. 
W,  W  are  wires,  and  A.  B,  C,  vines. 
the  most  convenient  position  for  spraying  and  harvest¬ 
ing,  while  it  is  out  of  the  way  of  domestic  fow'ls,  and 
can  be  easily  sacked.  4.  Cultivation  is  most  easily  ac¬ 
complished.  5.  One  can  pass  easily  from  row  to  row. 
6.  It  maintains  the  equilibrium  and  life  of  the  vine  to 
the  fullest  extent,  and  secures  all  fruit  possible  from  a 
given  area.  7.  Pruning  and  training  are  reduced  to 
the  simplest  possible  condition,  so  that  a  novice  can 
readily  do  satisfactory  work  after  a  few  vines  have 
been  pruned  and  tied  before  him.  t.  v.  munson. 
The  Two  Trellis:  The  “Two  Arm”  System. 
1.  By  cuttings.  2.  In  the  fall.  After  the  leaves  have 
fallen,  I  cut  the  cuttings  in  lengths — say,  16  to  20 
inches — tie  them  in  bunches,  and  pack  them  in  moist 
sand,  in  the  cellar  till  they  are  wanted  for  use  in  the 
spring.  3.  They  should  be  six  or  eight  inches  long, 
w'ith  two  or  three  buds.  Cut  quite  close  to  the  lower 
bud,  and  leave  about  an  inch  of  wood  above  the  upper 
bud.  As  soon  as  the  ground  is  in  good  working  condition 
in  the  spring,  having  been  previously  prepared  and 
cleared  of  stones,  I  make  trenches  or  furrows  about 
eight  inches  deep,  place  the  cuttings  in  them  in  a 
sloping  position  about  four  inches  apart,  in  rows  one 
foot  apart,  so  that  the  top  buds  will  be  just  below  ot 
at  the  surface  when  leveled  ;  firm  the  soil,  and  draw 
some  over  the  top  buds  ;  saw-dust  is  best  for  this. 
Keep  the  soil  moist  with  mulch  or  water  till  the  cut¬ 
tings  are  well  started,  and  allow  no  weeds  to  grow. 
Plant  in  vineyard  the  next  spring  as  early  as  the 
ground  is  ready,  in  rows  nine  feet  apart,  and  10  feet 
apart  in  the  rows.  4.  Spring,  although  my  experience, 
here  in  Dutchess  County,  N.  Y.,  does  not  include  fall 
planting.  5.  The  two-wire  trellis,  and  the  “two-arm” 
system  of  trimming.  This  system  has  been  steadily 
growing  in  favor  here  for  several  years  past,  and 
wherever  it  has  been  adopted  instead  of  the  “  four- 
arm”  or  Ivniffin  plan,  it  has  proved  advantageous, 
without  a  single  exception  to  my  knowledge,  and, 
especially  since  spraying  has  become  a  necessity,  the 
greater  convenience  of  doing  the  work  under  this 
system  has  been  so  manifest  as  to  induce  a  large  pro¬ 
portion  of  our  growers  to  adopt  it.  In  it  two  arms  are 
left  for  the  top  wire,  each  having  10  or  12  buds,  and 
being  about  four  feet  long,  extending  along  the  top 
wire.  It  has  been  found  beneficial  to  wind  the  arm 
around  the  wire  two  or  three  times,  which  checks  the 
