1892 
THE  RURAL  NEW-YORKER. 
445 
pound  for  several  .years.  1  have  increased  my  herd  of 
cows  to  215,  and  am  selling'  milk  wholesale  at  18  cents 
for  six  months  in  the  year,  and  at  14  cents  for  six 
months,  or  an  average  of  16  cents  per  gallon  the  year 
through.  About  two  years  ago  I  began  to  use  a  Star 
milk  cooler.  I  now  use  one  at  each  barn,  and  many 
of  my  neighbors  are  using  it.  I  find  if  the  milk  is 
poured  over  the  cooler  as  soon  as  it  is  milked,  all  onion 
or  cabbage  odors  are  removed.  If  aerated  as  soon  as 
it  is  milked,  milk  will  keep  from  12  to  18  hours  longer 
than  if  treated  in  the  old  way.  I  have  never  tried 
making  butter  from  milk  cooled  as  above.  I  use  no 
ice.  K.  B.  CHAFFIN. 
Aerating  Better  Than  Icing. 
1.  In  driving  out  foul  odors  from  milk  by  aeration, 
l  have  had  no  experience,  and  can  only  give  hearsay 
evidence,  which  is  to  the  effect  that  milk  can  be  greatly 
improved  by  forcing  air  through  it  so  as  to  bring  every 
part  of  it  in  contact  with  the  oxygen  in  the  air.  2. 
By  thorough  aeration  of  milk  so  that  the  temperature 
is  reduced  to  62  degrees,  I  am  convinced  this  milk 
will  keep  at  least  12  to  18  hours  longer  than  milk  not 
so  treated.  We  find  that  even  pouring  milk  into  the 
can  with  a  big  dipper  so  as  to  reduce  the  temperature 
a  few  degrees,  is  a  great  benefit  so  far  as  its  keeping 
qualities  are  concerned.  In  factory  practice  where 
the  night’s  milk  is  to  be  kept  until  morning,  thorough 
aeration  and  cooling  down  to  65  degiees,  and  then 
shutting  off  the  cooling  medium,  is  by  far  preferable 
to  cooling  down  to  a  low  point  without  such  aeration. 
Where  cheese  is  made,  I  have  many  doubts  if  ice  has 
any  place,  as  compared  with  thorough  aeration  of  the 
milk,  together  with  slight  cooling  with  water.  In  my 
opinion,  floating  curds  that  are  the  “affliction”  of  the 
cheese-maker  in  hot  weather,  are  largely  due  to  the 
lack  of  aeration  of  milk  at  home,  or  the  factory,  and 
the  cooling  down  to  a  low  point,  with  little  agitation 
of  the  milk.  Cheese-makers  who  cool  the  night’s  milk 
principally  by  aeration,  and  not  below  65  degrees,  do 
not  have  trouble.  3.  Ice  is  not  needed  in  shipping 
milk,  except  to  keep  the  car  somewhere  near  70  de¬ 
grees,  and  the  milk  shippers  here  do  not  want  milk 
ice-cooled,  but  well  aerated,  and  cooled  to  about  02 
degrees.  For  butter-making,  the  agitation  of  milk  if 
set  by  the  gravity  process,  is  not  a  profitable  thing  ; 
as  it  causes  a  change  in  the  milk  that  prevents  a  per¬ 
fect  rising  of  the  cream,  so  that  milk  in  butter-making 
should  go  into  the  cans  as  soon  as  possible,  so  as  to 
get  the  fats  to  rise  as  the  temperature  of  the  milk  is 
falling.  For  separator  work,  the  cooling  of  the  milk 
a  few  degrees  by  aeration,  would  do  no  harm,  as  the 
separator  knows  no  change  in  milk  unless  it  has 
reached  the  sour  stage.  In  factories  where  milk  is 
skimmed  “  a  pound  to  the  hundred,”  the  aeration  is  a 
positive  benefit,  as  the  best  only  of  the  cream  rises 
and  as  fine  butter  as  I  have  ever  seen,  has  thus  been 
made  for  years  from  aerated  milk,  and  no  ice  is  used 
in  any  part  of  the  operation,  the  water  marking 
about  57  degrees  the  year  round.  john  goui.d. 
Will  Extractor  Butter  “  Develop  ?” 
The  only  objection  we  have  ever  heard  to  butter 
taken  directly  from  the  milk  by  the  extractor  or  accu¬ 
mulator,  is  that  it  lacks  the  acid,  “  nutty”  flavor  given 
it  by  soured  cream.  It  has  been  asked  if  this  sweet 
butter  will  not  acquire  this  flavor  if  it  is  stored  away 
for  a  few  months.  The  following  notes  are  from  men 
who  have  had  considerable  experience  with  this  butter. 
Most  of  it  is  sold  when  sweet.  There  is  demand  enough 
for  it  all : 
I  have  never  had  much  experience  in  keeping  the 
extractor  butter ;  but  what  I  have  had  has  been  very 
satisfactory.  I  do  not  think  the  butter  would  ever 
have  the  acid  flavor  that  sour  cream  has;  it  is  a  differ¬ 
ent  kind  of  butter,  and  I  believe  it  will  keep  better 
than  some  cream  butter.  I  packed  some  last  October 
for  my  own  use,  and  we  used  the  last  of  it  about  the 
middle  of  March,  and,  as  far  as  I  could  see,  it  was  as 
good  as  ever,  tasting  not  quite  as  fresh  as  freshly-made 
butter,  but  it  was  good,  and  there  was  no  old  taste  or 
off  flavor,  and  we  could  not  find  any  butter  anywhere 
nearly  as  good  until  I  made  some  more  myself,  and  I 
think  it  is  a  butter  that  every  one  would  like  after 
using  it  once.  It  does  not  have  a  high  acid  flavor  or 
smell,  but  it  is  very  sweet  and  good.  s.  j.  reeve. 
Apalachin  Dairy  Co. 
Our  experience  with  extractor  butter  is  that  it  is 
hard  to  give  it  the  nutty  flavor  which  nicely  made, 
ripened  cream  butter  has.  After  about  a  week  it  does 
to  some  extent  acquire  it,  but  only  to  about  the  same 
degree  as  that  made  from  sweet  cream.  Our  theory  is 
that  certain  bacteria  necessary  to  the  development  of 
that  flavor  are  wanting  and  they  are  developed  only 
in  cream  nicely  handled  in  the  ripening  process. 
Recently  some  experiments  have  been  made  in  our 
factory  by  a  specialist  from  New  York  in  the  line  of  a 
prepared  ripener — heating  the  cream  so  as  to  destroy 
the  bad  bacteria  and  then  developing  a  new  germ  by 
means  of  this  patent  ripener,  thus,  as  the  owners  of 
the  process  claim,  destroying  all  impure  flavor,  and 
making  a  fine,  nutty,  highly  aromated  butter. 
Producers’  Dairy  Company.  .tames  r,.  davis. 
Ringbone  and  Spavin. 
W.  McP.,  Strother,  Can. — What  is  the  proper  treat¬ 
ment  for  ringbone  ?  A  mare  of  mine  seems  troubled 
with  springhalt  when  starting  off.  What  should  be 
done  for  her  ? 
Ans. — The  most  satisfactory  treatment  for  ringbone 
is  deep  firing  in  points  with  the  hot  iron.  If  properly 
fired,  many  recent  ringbones  can  be  entirely  cured. 
The  firing  should  be  performed  only  by  a  competent 
veterinary  surgeon.  If  unable  to  employ  a  veterina¬ 
rian  for  the  firing,  try  severe  blisters.  The  cerate  of 
cantharides  ointment  one  ounce,  and  biniodide  of  mer¬ 
cury  two  drams,  well  mixed,  will  make  an  excellent 
blister.  The  blistering  should  be  repeated  as  soon  as 
the  effect  of  one  blister  has  nearly  passed  off.  Apply 
the  blister  to  the  front  and  sides  of  the  pastern  only. 
The  mare  is  probably  spavined.  A  personal  examina¬ 
tion  by  a  veterinarian  will  be  necessary  to  ascertain 
positively  and  to  prescribe  a  course  of  treatment. 
Bad  Cough  in  a  Horse. 
H.  M.  J.,  Qreenport,  N.  Y. — My  five-year-old  horse, 
brought  from  Indiana  a  year  ago,  had  the  influenza, 
common  to  horses  when  changing  climate,  and  has 
never  been  entirely  free  from  what  seems  to  be  a 
throat  cough.  The  horse  is  well  and  in  good  condi¬ 
tion,  but  coughs  and  sneezes  more  after  eating’  hay 
and  grain  or  when  first  starting  out  on  a  drive.  There 
is  no  discharge  of  any  account  at  the  nose. 
Ans. — Try  the  following  course  of  treatment :  Rub 
the  throat  from  ear  to  ear  twice  a  week  with  a  lini¬ 
ment  of  equal  parts  of  strong  ammonia  and  sweet  oil, 
well  shaken  together  ;  continue  until  well  blistered. 
Internally,  give  twice  daily  on  the  feed  one  dram  of 
sulphate  of  iron,  and  four  drams  powdered  gentian. 
Feed  largely  on  grass  or  other  green  food.  When 
hay  or  dry  grain  is  given,  it  should  be  slightly  damp¬ 
ened.  If  the  horse  shows  any  symptoms  of  heaves,  a 
course  of  arsenic  might  be  beneficial,  beginning  with 
three  grains  twice  daily,  and  increasing  the  dose  to  five 
grains  after  a  few  days.  t>r.  f.  e.  kieborne. 
Some  Strawberry  Questions. 
G.  D.  II.,  Edgewood,  Ga. — 1.  Should  young  strawberry 
plants,  intended  to  fruit  another  season,  be  allowed  to 
run  at  all?  2.  Will  a  limited  number  of  runners,  say, 
two  to  a  stool,  improve  the  plant  in  fruiting  next 
season?  3.  What  will  make  a  Scxippernong  grape  set 
fruit  ? 
Ans. — 1.  Assuming  that  the  berries  are  set  suffi¬ 
ciently  early  in  the  season  to  give  them  a  fair  growth, 
we  advise  letting  the  runners  grow  and  make  what  is 
known  as  a  matted  row.  If  you  were  simply  trying 
for  size  of  berry,  without  reference  to  quantity,  keep¬ 
ing  the  plants  in  a  stool  would  be  best.  For  profit, 
nothing  is  better  than  the  matted  row.  This  answers 
question  two  as  well.  3.  We  do  not  know.  The 
Scuppernong  does  not  take  kindly  to  pruning.  Try 
root  pruning,  and  note  the  effects.  Dig  a  trench  a 
foot  or  so  in  depth  across  its  roots,  about  three  feet 
from  the  vine,  cutting  off  a  part  of  the  roots. 
Turnips  for  Green  Manuring:. 
C.  G.  A.,  East  Orland,  Maine. — I  am  thinking  of 
plowing  in  a  field  of  peas  that  were  sown  this  spring 
on  newly  broken-up  land  amid  stumps  and  stones,  or 
of  cutting  them  into  mince-meat  with  a  disc  harrow 
and  following  them  immediately  with  turnips — all  for 
the  purpose  of  improving  the  land.  I  suppose  turnips 
would  be  the  better,  as  they  grow  so  rapidly  and  con¬ 
tinue  growth  so  late  in  the  fall.  But  what  would  be 
the  best  variety  ? 
Ans. — It  is  now  rather  late  to  use  the  turnips  for  the 
purpose  named.  It  may  pay  better  to  plow  in  the 
peas,  work  the  ground  up  finely  and  use  some  good 
fertilizer  for  the  next  crop.  The  peas  ought  to  add 
enough  humus  to  the  soil — the  turnips  will  add  little 
else  than  organic  matter.  You  do  not  say  what  crop 
will  follow  the  peas  (or  turnips).  If  fall  grain,  we 
would  plow  up  the  peas,  thoroughly  work  up  the 
ground  and  use  at  le  .  st  300  pounds  of  complete  fertil¬ 
izer.  If  for  a  spring  crop,  turn  under  the  peas  and 
work  the  land  over  in  the  spring,  using  more  fertilizer 
if  for  potatoes. 
A  Turnip  Fertilizer  :  Trimming1  Apple  Trees. 
W.  H.  C.,  Port  Union,  Canada. — 1.  Which  is  the  bet¬ 
ter  fertilizer  for  turnips,  ammonia  3%  to  five  per  cent, 
phosphoric  acid  six  to  eight  per  cent,  potash  three  to 
four  per  cent,  or  ammonia  two  to  three  per  cent,  phos¬ 
phoric  acid  nine  to  ten  per  cent,  potash  six  to  eight 
per  cent  ?  What  is  the  best  way  to  apply  it  ?  Is  it 
best  to  sow  it  on  the  drills  immediately  after  the  seed 
is  sown?  2.  When  is  the  best  time  to  trim  apple  trees? 
Is  the  middle  of  June  a  good  time  ? 
Ans. — 1.  Of  the  two  we  should  choose  the  latter, 
though  without  knowledge  of  the  special  need  of  the 
land,  a  lower  per  cent  of  potash  might  be  economical. 
We  would  sow  the  fertilizer  broadcast  before  drilling 
in  the  seed.  2.  Yes.  The  growing  season — the  earlier 
the  better — is  best  when  large  limbs  need  removal,  as 
they  heal  over  more  promptly.  Small  limbs  may  be 
cut  at  any  time. 
Fighting  the  Gooseberry  Mildew. 
W.  Douglas  King.  — I  have  been  unsuccessful  in  get¬ 
ting  a  copy  of  Experiments  on  the  Gooseberry  Mil¬ 
dew.  I  have  over  500  gooseberry  bushes  set  out  this 
spring  and  am  interested.  IIow  is  the  lac  sulphur 
applied  and  how  much  ?  Mildew  has  attacked  bushes 
in  this  locality.  Has  salt  brine  any  virtue  as  a  fun¬ 
gicide  ?  Some  say  yes. 
Ans. — The  formula  used  at  the  New  York  State  Ex¬ 
periment  Station  is  one-lialf  ounce  of  potassium  sul¬ 
phide  (liver  of  sulphur)  to  one  gallon  of  water.  By 
using  hot  water,  the  sulphide  will  more  readily  dis¬ 
solve.  The  station  practice  is  to  spray  as  soon  as  the 
young  leaves  unfold  and  to  continue  to  spray  at  in¬ 
tervals  of  20  days,  unless  heavy  rains  render  more  fre¬ 
quent  spraying  necessary.  We  do  not  believe  the 
brine  would  be  of  any  use  on  the  gooseberry  bushes. 
A  Cheaper  Bordeaux  Mixture. 
M.  M. ,  Medway,  Mass. — In  a  late  Rurae,  on  page  399, 
Mr.  Joseph  Meehan  is  quoted  as  saying  that  florists  in 
his  vicinity  are  spraying  with  a  “  Bordeaux  mixture” 
made  with  one  pound  of  copper  sulphate  and  one  pint 
of  ammonia  water  in  22  gallons  of  water.  Is  such  a 
mixture  safe  and  efficient  as  a  fungicide  ?  Will  the 
cheaper  copper  sulphate  take  the  place  of  carbonate 
of  copper  ? 
Ans. — Yes,  such  a  mixture  is  quite  safe.  The  cop¬ 
per  sulphate  is  iust  as  effective  as  the  carbonate. 
More  About  the  Capon  Business. 
G.  W.  I.,  Gallon,  Mich. — Where  can  I  learn  more 
about  caponizing — the  instruments  to  be  used,  and  at 
what  age  to  caponize?  Could  one  use  an  incubator 
and  hatch  the  chickens  in  the  fall  and  caponize  during 
the  winter? 
Ans. — The  Rural  Publishing  Company  sells  a  book 
on  caponizing  (price  25  cents  in  paper),  and  also  a  set 
of  tools  for  the  work.  We  shall  doubtless  have  more 
to  say  about  the  subject  in  The  R.  N.-Y.  through  the 
summer.  Yes,  you  can  hatch  in  the  fall  as  you  suggest, 
but  it  would  hardly  pay  to  do  so.  The  profit  in  capons 
comes  in  letting  some  one  else  grow  the  bird  up  to  the 
“  crowing  age.”  That  is  the  most  expensive  part  of  a 
bird’s  life,  and  all  the  gain  from  caponizing  is  made 
after  that  age.  In  the  late  summer  and  early  fall 
the  markets  of  the  large  cities  are  often  glutted  with 
young  roosters.  They  come  here  at  the  wrong  time 
to  sell  as  broilers  and  the  price  often  runs  down  to  9 
or  10  cents  per  pound.  The  caponizer  watches  his 
chance  and  buys  these  cheap  roosters  for  operating  on. 
At  the  prices  named  they  are  a  great  bargain,  for  it 
has  cost  at  least  15  cents  a  pound  to  grow  them.  As 
a  rule  few  poultry  men  can  afford  to  grow  their  own 
capons.  Better  buy  cheap  roosters. 
Miscellaneous. 
A.  J.  S.,  Windsor,  N.  Y. — Cultivating  wild  carrot  be¬ 
fore  it  seeds  is  the  one  sure  way  to  exterminate  it.  It 
is  a  biennial. 
Breeding  a  Young  Mare. — G.  H.  D.,  South  Orrington, 
Me. — If  the  mare  is  well  developed,  she  can  safely  be 
bred  at  three  years  of  age,  and  be  kept  at  breeding  as 
long  as  she  remains  fertile.  It  is  not  usually  desirable 
to  breed  a  mare  under  three  years ;  and,  if  not  well 
developed,  it  is  better  to  wait  until  she  is  four  years  old 
A  Daisy  to  Kill. — E.  G.  S.,  Athens,  Ohio  — The  daisy 
is  less  objectionable  in  a  pasture  than  the  yarrow. 
It  is  easily  killed  by  plowing  the  land  at  this  season, 
or  by  the  cultivation  given  to  corn. 
Skin  Eruptions  on  Colt. — F.  F.  R.,  Allegan,  Mich. — 
The  colt  that  is  “  covered  with  small,  hard  bunches,” 
should  be  first  fx-eely  purged.  For  this  purpose  give  a 
dose  of  three  (or  four  if  the  colt  is  well  developed) 
drams  of  aloes  with  one-half  ounce  of  ginger.  Repeat 
the  dose  in  three  days  if  the  animal  is  not  purged  by 
the  first.  During  treatment  feed  mainly  on  green 
food  or  bran  mashes.  After  the  colt  has  been  purged, 
give  one  tablespoonful  of  the  following  powder  in  the 
feed  twice  daily  :  Powdered  gentian  and  sulphate  of 
soda  each  one-half  pound,  nitrate  of  potash  and  bicar¬ 
bonate  of  soda  each  four  ounces  ;  mix. 
Rose  Bugs;  Poor  Peas. — J.  C.  C.,  Naslioba,  Mass. — 
Hot  water  (125  degrees)  will  kill  rose  bugs  Buhach 
or  pyrethrum  powder  will  disable  them  for  several 
hours.  We  know  of  no  other  remedy  except 
beating  them  off  into  vessels  in  the  cool  of  the 
morning  and  destroying  them.  We  cannot  tell  why 
your  peas  and  oats  “failed  to  come  up.”  It  may  have 
been  owing  to  poor  seed,  poor  soil  or  imperfect  prepa¬ 
ration  or  planting. 
