MARCH. 
63 
•water, for much will depend on this in keep¬ 
ing good foliage round the pot. Tie out as 
wide as possible, keeping the shoots as near 
the surface of the pot as convenient without 
a risk of breaking them. Keep them as thin 
and as near the glass as possible, and syringe 
until in flower every favourable opportunity, 
as this will tend to assist the foliage and 
develop the young bud. Give weak liquid 
manure occasionally. Look to seedlings as 
they come into bloom, and select the brightest 
colours for the ensuing season. Sow in a 
shady situation for early autumn flowering, 
and as soon a3 large enough transplant and 
keep in a cool shady situation through the 
summer. Prepare compost by throwing up 
into a heap good turfy loam and partly decom¬ 
posed stable manure. Pelargoniums .—Under 
the increasing influence of solar light they 
will require a more liberal supply of water, 
particularly the plants intended for the early 
exhibitions, and also those that are well esta¬ 
blished in their blooming pots. Now they 
should occasionally have some liquid manure 
water. As the days lengthen an increase of 
temperature may be allowed, and air should 
he given early on fine bright mornings; but the 
house should be closed early in the afternoon. 
Attend to the training of the shoots to admit 
the light and air. The young stock should 
have every attention to training, the stopping 
back of any strong shoots, being kept entirely 
free of insects, and encouraged by every 
possible means to make a vigorous and healthy 
growth. Keep the plants clean of dead foliage, 
and especially the fancy varieties, for if they 
are allowed to remain long on the shoots they 
often cause them to damp, and spoil the shape 
of the plant. The June and late-flowering 
plants, as they progress in growth, should be 
kept well tied out, according to instructions 
previously given. 
FORCING. 
Potatoes of well known early kinds, as the 
Early Oxford, Ashleaf, and Royal Dwarf, may 
now be planted freely in frames over a gentle 
heat, as the disease will not affect them at 
this season to the extent it often does earlier. 
Let the soil be sandy and free from manure. 
Thin out Carrots and Radishes sown in 
frames ; and prick out into low pits or frames 
spring-raised Cauliflowers, Lettuce, and Celery 
for future transplanting. Keep up a succes¬ 
sion of forced Kale, Asparagus, and Rhubarb. 
It will save a great deal of trouble and risk 
from the attacks of insects if a pit or two 
could be devoted to the culture of the French 
Dean, instead of growing them in vineries, 
&c. The pits however, must be provided with 
some means of heating. The best forcing 
varieties are the Newington Wonder, and 
Early Mohawk. Melons and Cucumbers .— 
These latter should now have every attention, 
as they will be growing and bearing freely, if 
grown in Pine stoves in pots. They will re¬ 
quire liquid manure occasionally, and fre¬ 
quent surfacing to encourage the roots. Thin 
out the vines, and do not allow too many fruit 
to swell off at the same time. Cucumbers in 
frames must have the required heat maintained 
by linings of warm dung. Earth up the 
hills as the roots advance, and train the 
vines over the surface, stopping them at a 
joint beyond the fruit. Ridge out succession 
crops. The night temperature should not be 
less than 68°, with a rise of 12 Q by day, giv¬ 
ing air on all opportunities. The bottom 
heat should be kept steady, at from 80° to 
90°. Melons require a heavy loam, or rich 
marly soil, on which they thrive fast, and 
escape many evils they are always subject to 
on lighter soils; therefore this description of 
soils should be selected if possible. Peach- 
house. — Look at last month’s directions. 
When the shoots are long enough for tying in 
let it be done at once. Night temperature 
58 Q , day 75 Q to 80°. Pinery .—Fruit ripening 
should be well exposed to get it a good colour, 
and a rather drier atmosphere kept; succes¬ 
sion plants, if active at the roots, may have 
a shift towards the end of the month. Use 
pure loam, or loam and peat, with a little 
bone dust mixed with it; but be sure that the 
roots are on the move before you pot, or if 
not give them a little extra bottom heat to 
forward them. Vineries. — Early Grapes 
which have been thinned should be kept 
growing by a uni orm temperature of about 
60° by night, and ranging to 80° under bright 
sun by day. Sprinkle the paths, walls, &c., 
frequently to maintain a certain degree of 
humidity in the atmosphere, and let the ad¬ 
mission of air be attended to early each morn¬ 
ing ; indeed, if a little is allowed all night it 
will be to the advantage of the crop. Grapes 
in pots will require constant watching to 
supply them with water. Outside borders 
should be watched, to see the protective ma¬ 
terials keep off the wet, and if they give a 
slight heat at the same time the roots will 
derive an additional benefit; but if heat has 
been applied it must not be allowed to de¬ 
cline. Dring on succession-houses, and stop 
down shoots as they advance. The latest 
houses where fruit is cut may be pruned and 
washed, and the Vines shaded from the sun 
to keep them from breaking till late. Now is 
a good time to pot a lot of Vines for fruiting 
next season in pots. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Every means must now be taxed to keep 
pace with the season. All crops of summer 
vegetables may now be either sown or planted. 
A succession of Peas and Broad Beans should 
be put in about every fortnight, sowing two 
sorts at each time. This will produce an 
uninterrupted supply, allotting the quantity 
sown to the demand. It would be useless 
recommending sorts, seeing seedsmens’ cata¬ 
logues contain such descriptive notices of each 
that each may select for himself. Sow Onions 
on well-prepared ground, made tolerably firm 
