64 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
if at all light. Spinach, Radishes, and Lettuce, 
should he" sown every fortnight in small gar¬ 
dens. Horn Carrots do well mixed with the 
Radishes, as these may be drawn out, and the 
Carrots follow. Lettuce delights in rich and 
rather heavy land; the autumn planting 
should have the soil stirred between them, 
and get a dressing of soot. _ Plant out autumn 
Cauliflowers on a warm rich border; also a 
good piece of Cabbage for a main crop; and 
sive plenty of air to Cauliflowers under 
glasses, and water with liquid manure. The 
main crop of Potatoes should now be planted 
in select dry soils and open situations, and 
avoid fresh or rank manure. 
FRUIT GARDEN. 
Hardy Fruit. —The remarkable mildness 
of the season has brought the Apricot, and in 
some places the Peach, into bloom. This is 
an unfortunate state of things, for in all pro¬ 
bability we shall have a winter of more or 
less intensity, when the coming crop will be 
placed in the greatest jeopardy. The only 
plan to adopt is to keep off the covering while 
the mild weather lasts, but have your protec¬ 
tion, in ample quantities, ready for use when 
wanted. Wash Apple and Pear trees, whose 
stems have become mossy, with hot lime and 
water, to which add a little salt. 
flower garden. 
A good time this (if not done in autumn), 
for taking up and dividing the roots of peren¬ 
nial herbaceous plants. Permanent bulbs 
must on no account be touched now, as they 
will be commencing to grow. Phloxes, Asters, 
Delphiniums, and other plants of this class, 
when the roots have grown too large should 
be divided and the best portions planted again 
in fresh soil; due regard should be paid to the 
height and colour of each at planting, that 
they mix well as regards colour; and where 
the beds can be seen from all sides, the tallest 
should be arranged in the centre, falling 
gradually to the edge. Mark some of the best 
Polyanthus and Auriculas for seed; these 
and Hepaticas when done blooming, may be 
divided and replanted for increasing the stock, 
and in the same way Russian Violets and 
common Violets may be treated. A few,hardy 
annuals may be sown for an early bloom, and 
those sown in autumn should be well thinned 
out to allow them to stand singly, when the 
bloom will be much finer. Finish the pruning 
of Roses, except the Tea and China sections, 
and a few of the Gallicas, Provence, and Alba 
classes, which may be left unpruned till April 
to run the chance of a very late bloom. Rose 
beds on poor soil should be well manured. 
Cold Frames. —Push on with all kinds of pro¬ 
pagating, so as to have plants established some¬ 
what by the beginning of May, that they may 
be hardened before finally planting them. Pot 
off what autumn-struck cuttings yet remain 
in store-pans, particularly Geraniums and the 
like. Sow seeds of Stocks, Lobelias, Nierem- 
bergias, Maurandyas, and other greenhouse 
plants for turning out; also of the many varie¬ 
ties of Canna or Indian Shot, which as foliaged 
plants make admirable beds, and for mixing 
with other things. Consult the many cata¬ 
logues ; for among the things advertised as 
new many are worthy a trial. And who is 
not ambitious to have a new bed in his garden ? 
Attend particularly to fine-foliaged plants and 
ornamental Grasses, which make interesting 
additions to ordinary flower gardens by in¬ 
fusing variety. Propagate Dahlias, Salvias, 
Bouvardias, tall Lobelias, and other similar 
plants by the young shoots thrown up from 
the roots, or by making cuttings of the roots 
themselves. 
florists’ flowers. 
Auriculas. —These will now be much more 
tender, from the amount of young growth they 
have made. Protect from frost, and water more 
frequently, as well as more liberally; weak 
liquid manure once a-week will strengthen 
the trusses now being thrown up. Give plenty 
of air, and fumigate occasionally; green fly 
generally appears with the young growth. 
Carnations and Picotees. —The season has been 
such that, early as itfmay appear, the strong- 
growing varieties should now be potted, as 
such will be getting pot-bound in small pots, 
and the sooner they have an opportunity of 
getting established permanently in the soil 
they are to bloom in, the finer it may be ex¬ 
pected, as well as a larger increase of stock. 
Pot firmly and secure any long plants with 
small sticks; if there is any green fly on the 
plants, give them a good smoking with 
tobacco or tobacco-paper before taking them 
from the pit. The latter end of the month 
will be soon enough for planting out in border. 
"We advise expedition, as being in favour of 
large blooms. Dahlias. —March is the best 
month for propagating the Dahlia ; cuttings 
struck now have time to make fine plants, yet 
are not too early to become stunted; therefore 
propagate freely, and when sufficient cuttings 
have been taken, divide the roots, to make a 
few strong early plants. Sow seed towards 
the end of the month, in a brisk heat. Pinks. 
—Top-dress without loss of time, if not al¬ 
ready done, using half-rotten manure mixed 
with rich loamy soil. Particularly mild as 
the weather has been of late, those planted 
early, ashecommended by us last autumn, look 
very strong and healthy. From the remark¬ 
able season we have experienced, a fine bloom 
is very probable. Ttdips. —Protect the bed 
with canvas, frigi domo, or mats whenever 
there is severe frost, or excessive rain; but, as 
a rule, keep it covered as little as possible, as 
doing so obviously excites a weakly growth. 
Stir the surface of the soil between the bulbs 
as soon as it is in the best state for the opera¬ 
tion— i. e., between wet and dry. All the 
beds we have seen, and they are not a few, 
promise a good bloom, the appearance above 
ground being very regular. An early bloom 
is all but certain, however. 
