FEBRUARY. 
31 
is a most excellent G-rape. The thought struck me on seeing these extraordinary 
Grapes grown under conditions so unfavourable to them, and without bottom heat, 
and where a gleam of sunshine scarcely ever falls on the house, that this ought to 
prevent any one from incurring a useless expense, which would I think only end 
in disappointment. 
Oultoii Park. J. Wills. 
[“F.” and Mr. Wills’s statements are borne out by the wonderful exhibition of Mr. 
Miller, of Coombe Abbey, at Kensington, on the 21st nit., when he exhibited six bunches 
of Barhar issa, weighing 36 lbs.—the largest being 7 lbs. exactly! These were produced on a 
Vine which has borne fruit only for the second year, and which is planted in an unheated 
border. We should like to hear a few more ideas on this subject.—E d. F. and P.j 
THE FORCING OF HARDY SHRUBS, 
WITH A SHORT LIST OF -PLANTS SUITABLE FOR THE PURPOSE. 
With a proper house or pit for forcing,'and a good stock of plants, a supply 
of forced flowers may be had during the dull, dark, and cheerless months of winter 
and early spring, without any great expense. In general it is usual to have a 
stock of prepared plants ready for the purpose, but when this is not done, a sup¬ 
ply of plants can always be procured from the nurseries. The best time for potting 
the plants is as early in October as possible. 
Well-rooted and well-shaped plants should be selected; a good sandy loam with 
a little leaf mould will suit most kinds of plants, except Rhododendrons and other 
kinds of American plants, which should be potted in sandy peat. When the 
plants are all carefully potted, they should be plunged in old tan, rotten leaves, or 
ashes, in an open but sheltered situation. If the weather be dry, they should 
have a good watering; and at no time should the soil in the pots be allowed to 
get too dry. Forcing may commence any time after the middle of November, but 
the plants that are best-rootecl and established in their pots should be selected for 
the first batch; if forced several seasons previous, they will be all the easier excited. 
A good steady uniform bottom heat is indispensably necessary for the successful 
forcing of flowers, and if this be not supplied by pipes, a bed of tan or leaves must 
be prepared to plunge the pots in. A bottom heat of 70° is sufficient; it should 
on no account exceed 75°. 
The largest plants should all be plunged in this bed, the small plants will in 
general do pretty well on shelves near the glass. The plants should be well 
watered when they require it, and be syringed two or three times a-day—a moist 
atmosphere must be maintained, but a high temperature is not necessary ; indeed 
it is more or less injurious at all times, but more particularly during the winter 
months. For the first fortnight after the plants are housed, a night temperature 
of from 45° to 50°, and a day temperature of from 55° to 60°, will be sufficient. 
At the end of two or three weeks, when root-action commences, the temperature 
should be raised 5° higher at night; also during the day with an additional 
increase of 8° or 10° by sun heat. Later on in the season the temperature may 
be raised 5° more both by night and by day. 
Air should be given abundantly at every favourable opportunity. It should 
always be given as early in the forenoon as it can be with safety, so that the house 
or pit may be shut up early in the afternoon. 
Fresh plants should be put into the house every week or ten days, so as to have 
a continual succession of plants. All plants coming into flower should be removed 
to the conservatory before they are fully expanded, and they should be carried in 
a covered vehicle to protect the tender flowers from the injurious effects of the 
cold air ; and when they are placed in the conservatory, they should not be ex¬ 
posed to cold draughts. When the plants go out of flower, they should not be set 
at once out of doors, and have no further care bestowed on them, as is sometimes 
the case, but they should be placed either in a cold vinery, or pit to complete and 
harden the young wood. Their flowering next season will greatly depend on the 
treatment they receive after they have done flowering. The end of April or begin- 
