FEBRUARY. 
25 
CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
( Continued from page 8.) 
What I have said with regard to growing specimen Chrysanthemums refers 
to the large-flowering sorts, but is equally applicable to Pompons, the only 
difference being that the latter are of a more compact habit. I do not know 
that anything of importance can be added at present; but whatever I may 
discover, in the course of my practice, I shall be happy to relate. I am aware 
that some growers, or those who assume to be growers of the Chrysanthemum, 
recommend growing the plants in the ground—that is, in beds or borders— 
until the buds begin to open, and then to take them up and pot them, by care¬ 
fully cutting the roots and allowing them to produce fibres again. Now, I 
never tried this plan, consequently I am not prepared conscientiously to recom¬ 
mend it, or the contrary. This, however, I can say—I know several gardeners 
who make it their system of growing Chrysanthemums, and, judging from the 
specimens they produce, I will neither adopt it myself nor recommend it to 
others ; and, further, I will undertake to grow better specimens in the manner 
I have described, than I could ever grow, or I have ever seen so grown, in the 
open ground, and repotting them. 
Having extended this part to a greater length than I intended, it will 
be necessary to be a little more brief in speaking of growing large blooms. 
The process, however, is so simple that a lengthy description would probably 
be considered tedious. The cuttings, or offsets, may be taken off and potted 
at the same time, and in the same manner, as before described, or they may be 
left till March, the side-shoots being simply taken off and potted, or pricked 
out into a bed in a cold frame. It is better, however, to cut them off above the 
surface, and strike them, as they will afterwards grow more freely and 
vigorously, and are less likely to throw up a quantity of suckers. They 
may be struck by dibbing them close together, and placing a hand-glass over 
them, or potting them in the usual manner. When rooted, the young plants 
may be planted pretty close together against a wall, in a bed of soil that has 
been properly dug and manured. As the plants grow they can be trained up 
with clear stems—that is, picking off side-shoots—allowing each eventually to 
break into three, and each of these three shoots to support one flower, picking 
off the rest as soon as they can be got at. When the buds begin to open some 
sort of shelter will be necessary, which may be supplied in the form of a 
coping to the wall; but the more transparent it is the better, provided it is 
waterproof. Even a garden mat will do, but this will look neither gardenly 
nor ornamental, and should not be used unless it happen to be in an out-of-the- 
way place. 
Some of the best growers, however, demur at growing their flowers in a 
border, on the ground that the colour of some of them does not become what 
it should be. This is, I think, straining a point; for I have found the colour 
generally all that could be desired, and the form of a flower is as likely to be 
defective in a pot as in a border; still, in many cases, it may be more con¬ 
venient to grow them in pots. The process, then, is to have young plants, 
properly labelled and established, in small pots in April; pot them on as 
required, and at the last potting three or four plants may be grown in a 12 or 
13-inch pot, or one in a nine-inch pot. Let such plant grow with a single 
stem. Plunge in an open place, give a little liquid manure occasionally, and 
let each plant bear no more than three or four blooms. 
When the flowers begin to develope they must have some shelter, and if 
that of a greenhouse can be given nothing can be better; but if a large 
c 2 
