16 
TEE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
management is required to insure a good crop. 
Have the plants near the glass. Give them 
all the air possible, according to the state of 
the weather, and water carefully when neces¬ 
sary. Introduce a fresh hatch of plants every 
two or three weeks. Vinery.— The early 
house will now he in flower, and care should 
he taken to keep up a steady temperature 
and a genial atmosphere. The night tempera¬ 
ture should on no account fall below 60°. Look 
to the covering on the outside borders, and 
see that the heat does not decline. Attend 
to the stopping and tying down of the shoots. 
Thin the berries as soon after they are formed 
as possible: Start the second house ; com¬ 
mence with a night temperature of 45°. 
Keep the atmosphere moist. Water inside 
border. Hardy Shrubs. —Ventilate freely 
whenever the state of the weather permits; 
maintain a moist atmosphere, and keep a 
steady bottom heat. Syringe in the forenoon 
on fine days. Introduce plenty of Kalmias, 
Rhododendrons, and Azaleas, than which 
there is nothing more beautiful; also some 
Roses, and a few plants of Lilac, Weigela, &e. 
Keep a temperature of about 50° by night in 
severe weather, and 60° by day, with an 
increase by sun heat. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
All wheelbarrow operations should be done 
in frosty weather, when the ground is hard 
and frozen. Look carefully over Lettuce 
plants in frames, also over Cauliflower plants 
under glasses and in frames; pick off the 
decaying leaves, and dust with lime or soot 
to prevent the attacks of slugs. When the 
ground is in a nice working state sow some 
Early Beans and Peas on a warm sheltered 
border. 
FRUIT GARDEN. 
Hardy Fruit. — Prune and regulate fruit 
trees generally. Prune and nail wall trees 
in favourable weather. Scrape moss, and 
thoroughly clean the stems and branches of 
standard Pear and Apple trees. Wheel some 
manure, and spread it round the trees and 
fork it in. Plant in mild weather. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
In favourable weather forward all altera¬ 
tions that are in progress, so as to get them 
completed before the busy time of spring 
arrives; this is a good time to make new 
walks, dig turf, and plant edgings. Protect 
everything requiring it. Dig all beds and 
borders, and let the soil remain in a rough 
state for the frost to act on it. Sweep and 
roll when necessary. Cold Frames. —After 
the late fine autumn everything here should 
be in a state of perfect rest. Give little or no 
water during the month, if possible; take 
advantage of every favourable opportunity to 
give all the air possible. Take care to have 
everything well covered up in frosty weather. 
Pleasure Grounds. —Sweep and roll walks and 
lawns in open weather. Do everything that 
possibly can be done at the present time so 
that routine matters may not be interfere d 
with by-and-by. Plant trees in mild weather. 
Mulch well round the roots of choice and 
valuable specimens. Forward with all possible 
dispatch all alterations—such as the changing 
of walks, the formation of new ones, the 
levelling of ground, laying down of turf, &c. 
florists’ flowers. 
Auriculas .—The old foliage will now con¬ 
tinue gradually to decay, and should be re¬ 
moved as quickly as possible, when once the 
leaves turn yellow; care must be taken not 
to injure the plants whilst so doing. At this 
season the Auricula has nothing very interest¬ 
ing in its appearance, being almost devoid of 
foliage. Water sparingly, and do not excite 
the plants to cause growth before Feburary, 
at which time water may be given freely. 
Carnations and Picotees. —The soil intended to 
bloom these should be kept frequently turned 
and exposed to the action of the weather, 
especially frost. The plants should be kept 
dry, and the dead foliage cleaned off as re¬ 
quired. Dahlias require much attention. 
Carefully examine the roots, particularly 
those from the open ground, to see they are not 
decaying at the crown; if they appear to be 
rotting downwards set them at work at once 
in a gentle heat, that they may not be entirely 
lost. Roots from those that have been grown 
in pots, or, as they are generally termed, pot- 
roots, will keep sound longer than those from 
the ground, and are consequently better 
adapted for exportation or transmission to a 
distance, and if not required for use, to produce 
cuttings for the purpose of propagation, make 
excellent early strong plants, by starting them 
in gentle heat the beginning of April. Holly¬ 
hocks .—Roots potted from the ground in 
autumn for the purpose of producing cuttings 
may be excited with a little heat; it should 
however, be gentle at first. When the shoots 
have attained the length of about three inches, 
cut them off similar to the method adopted in 
propagating Dahlias. The cuttings should 
be put into thumb-pots, using sandy soil, and 
place in mild bottom heat. The plants struck 
now will flower well in September. Seeds 
sown in heat, and the plants grown under 
glass until late in May, will flower in the 
autumn. Pansies. —Prepare the soil, and 
keep it dry for repotting those intended for 
blooming in pots, which operation should 
be performed towards the beginning of 
February, if the weather is mild. Seedlings 
should be looked after, pressing the soil and 
roots of those that may have been loosened 
by worms,&c. Should severe frost set in a 
little covering will be necessary, but grow 
Pansies as hardy as possible. Pinks. —But 
little will have to be done this month. If the 
frost should loosen the plants, press them 
firmly in the ground after a thaw, and pre¬ 
pare rich soil for top-dressing in March. 
