APRIL. 
79 
soon rooted, and in six weeks from the date of laying, the pots were generally 
filled with roots. These were mostly six-inch ones, and the plants were 
generally fruited in them. My practice is, as nearly as possible, the same now, 
excepting that I prefer seven-inch pots, filling them to the brim with good 
sound loam, using little or no manure of any kind. 
I have sometimes laid the runners in small pots, afterwards shifting them 
into larger, in fact, when they have been extra strong, I have had them in 
nine-inch pots, but I have found that no real advantage has been gained by it, 
and I have arrived at the conclusion that, for expedition in obtaining good 
plants in fruiting condition, with the least amount of labour (which I consider 
no trifling matter, particularly where large quantities are required), no 
better plan can be adopted than to lay the runners into the fruiting pots of 
the most convenient size. In doing this it is sometimes recommended to lay 
a stone or lump of earth on the runner to keep it in its place. I find a more 
expeditious method is, to cut up partly dried twigs into lengths of about 
3 inches, these being partially broken in the centre, are easily thrust into the 
soil, which should be firm enough to hold them, the runners being thus held 
in their places. 
In about three weeks time, I generally find the runners have taken suffi¬ 
cient root to allow of their being severed from the old plants, and placed together 
in a shady place for a few weeks, say one month. By that time they are 
well established, and can be plunged in the ground, or in ashes, or what not, 
in an open situation. After the runners are laid, the soil in the pots soon 
becomes apparently dry, when, as a matter of course, it may be deemed 
proper to water them. Now in this case, trifling as it may appear, a little 
caution ought to be used. It is desirable to encourage the emission of roots 
as quickly as possible, and if cold water is given too freely, the soil becomes 
cold and sodden, by which the process of rooting is retarded considerably. 
A mere sprinkling or wetting the surface will be found all that is necessary, 
until it is known that the runners have rooted down into the soil. When 
established or plunged, they may be treated like any other pot plants. 
F. Chitty. 
ON GRAFTING AND INARCHING VINES, AND THE 
SHANKING OF THEIR FRUIT. 
Notwithstanding much experience in the cultivation, and forcing of Vines, 
I have never succeeded well in grafting or inarching them, except when they 
were at rest or not growing. I consider the failure arose from the sap oozing 
out at the incisions, which prevented the proper union with the stocks. But as 
some profess to graft and inarch Vines, as if they were Camellias or Apple 
trees, perhaps they can state the best time for those operations. Not that I 
consider either plan of much utility, except when one wishes to have one of 
another kind united to a healthy Vine, in order to save time in rearing a 
young plant. For instance: I have a Black Barbarossa grafted on a White 
Muscadine, and also a White Syrian on a Black Hamburgh ; both of them 
fruited the following season after they were grafted. I have likewise a Black 
Muscat inarched on a Black Hamburgh, which, however, is still weak. I 
consider that new Grape an excellent one, though inferior to the White 
Muscat in flavour; and as regards the other two, I see no difference either 
in their growth, or the quality of their fruit, from that of others of the same 
kind nourished with sap from their own roots. I mention this more par¬ 
ticularly, as being contrary to the opinion of those who profess to strengthen 
