MAY. 
99 
beginning of August I place them at the foot of a south wall, where they are 
fully exposed to the sun ; the pots should be plunged in decayed tan, leaves, or 
ashes, to protect the roots from injury. The plants should have little or no 
water after this time, only just sufficient to keep the roots from suffering. The 
plants should remain in this situation until the middle of October, by which 
time the buds will be properly matured. They should then be placed in a 
cold pit, as near the light as possible, and they should be carefully protected 
from frost. They will scarcely need any water whilst here, as they should be 
kept dry and free from damp. About three batches of plants will furnish a 
succession of flowers from April until October. The first lot should be intro¬ 
duced into the forcing-house, or into a vinery just started, about Christmas, 
and should be syringed daily until they begin to break; when they get into 
full leaf they will require liberal supplies of water. With proper management 
these plants will be in flower in April. The second batch of plants should be 
introduced into the forcing-house about the middle of March; with care and 
attention these will be in flower in June. The third batch of plants should 
be allowed to break naturally; these will be in flower in August. 
For in-door decoration the Hydrangea is invaluable, as the flowers last a 
long time; and as young plants are easily grown every year from cuttings, it 
matters little whether or not the plants suffer whilst in-doors, for if it be not 
desirable to grow large plants, the whole may be thrown on the rubbish-heap 
as soon as they have done flowering. A few should, however, be saved 
if it be desirable to have some large plants. If a few of the first batch that 
have been forced be cut down to within a joint or two of the root after they 
have done flowering, and put into a little heat, they will soon break afresh. 
The buds should be well thinned, only three or at most four shoots should be 
allowed to grow, and these should be of as nearly equal strength as possible. 
When a few leaves have got fully expanded the plants should be fresh potted; 
as much of the old soil as possible should be removed from the ball without 
injuring the roots. In general, 16-sized pots will be quite large enough. Use 
nothing but good, fresh, strong loam for potting. When potted they should 
be placed in a cold frame, and properly attended to in watering, giving air, &c. 
Towards the middle or end of August, when their growth is completed, they 
should be set out of doors at the foot of a south wall, and treated as in the 
former season. These nlants will flower well the following season. 
If some of the plants that have flowered late are kept until the following 
January or February, and then cut down to within a joint or two of the root 
and placed in a vinery or Peach-house where there is a little heat, they will 
soon break, and with very little trouble will make good plants; but will not, 
of course, flower until the following season. 
Some of these plants if kept a few years and properly attended to may be 
grown to large-sized bushes, and though the heads of flowers are individually 
much smaller than those from young plants, they are, nevertheless, grand ob¬ 
jects when in full flower, and make a fine display towards the autumn in the 
flower garden, whether set about in vases or planted in the border. 
Stour ton. M. Saul. 
CAMELLIAS. 
Writers may well speak in praise of this most beautiful evergreen plant, 
while maintained in luxuriant health, with its thick dark shining foliage, it is 
an ornament in any place, and at any season, whether in bloom or not. I well 
recollect the pleasure I felt nearly half a century ago on visiting the houses of 
Messrs. Lee & Kennedy at Hammersmith, Loddiges at Hackney, and Colvilks 
