MAY. 
Ill 
He attended the Fruit Committee at Kensing¬ 
ton on the 4 th of last month, and the same 
night he was no more. He had been nearly 
twentv-one vears at Bridge Castle, was of 
v v O' 
quiet unassuming manners, and much re¬ 
spected in the horticultural world. 
CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. 
CONSERVATORY. 
It will be very desirable at this season to 
lessen the number of extra plants in this 
house, introduced for furnishing a supply of 
bloom, that the permanent plants may not be 
overcrowded now they are commencing their 
growth. Such plants as are growing in the 
open border must be well attended to with 
water, and the plants shoidd be frequently 
syringed overhead; doing this early in the 
morning, for the house to get dry before 
visitors enter. The display of bloom should 
be kept up by Pelargoniums, Azaleas (green¬ 
house and forced), Rhododendrons, Roses, &c.; 
and do not forget to introduce sweet-scented 
plants, as Orange trees, Heliotropes, and the 
good old Franciscea uniflora. Although shad¬ 
ing must necessarily be practised, it should 
not be carried to excess, or to cause the young 
shoots of the permanent plants to draw. Let 
the show-house be kept as gay as your stock 
permits, and look to the successional plants to 
follow those now in bloom. 
GREENHOUSE. 
Azaleas and Camellias .—Look at our former 
directions respecting the treatment of these 
plants. Camellias will now be out of bloom, 
and should be encouraged to make wood by 
keeping the house rather closer and more hu¬ 
mid, shading by day, and syringing the plants 
well overhead; this will induce them to grow 
freely. Where the plants are grown with 
others, they will be benefited by being placed 
in a Peach-house or vineiy, with a moderate 
heat. When the blooms of Azaleas are fully 
expanded they should be removed to a cool 
shady situation, to prolong their beauty. If 
exposed to the sun, many kinds soon fade. 
Cinerarias .—Little can now be done with these, 
other than keeping the plants that are in bloom 
in a cool shady situation. Select from the best 
named and seedling flowers for seed for the 
ensuing season, which sow as soon as ready if 
early plants are required. Place such as have 
gone out of flower in a north or cool situation 
for early cuttings. Prick-off seedlings as soon 
as large enough to handle, and place and keep 
them in a moist cool situation, until large 
enough to place in single pots. Prepare soil 
by putting equal parts turfy loam and well- 
decomposed manure in a heap, which turn 
occasionally, until required. 'Pelargoniums will 
now be fast coming into bloom. Continue 
tying and watering, according to instructions 
given last month. The blooms as they ex¬ 
pand should be well shaded from the mid-day 
sun. Bees must likewise be excluded, as they 
cause the flowers to drop. The blooms on 
plants intended for exhibition should be tied 
a few days prior to being wanted, to give them 
a concise and neat appearance. The late- 
flowering plants will now require much at¬ 
tention. A cool atmosphere, with thorough 
ventilation, is indispensable. Cleanliness like¬ 
wise must be looked to, and continue tying as 
required. 
FORCING. 
Peach-house. — After the crops are fairly 
stoned, if the fruit is wanted in quickly, a 
slight increase of temperature may be per¬ 
mitted, accompanied with more water to the 
roots. The trees also should be well washed 
once or twice daily, according to the weather. 
Tie in the shoots of the succession-houses, and 
attend to former directions. Strawberries .— 
If there is the convenience of a spare pit or 
frame, very fine Strawberries may be obtained 
by taking the plants, after having set* their 
fruit, and plunging them in pits, in old Melon 
soil; if over a slight bed of leaves, so much 
the better. The fruit will swell off to a large 
size, with little trouble, by this plan, and it 
will keep the houses clear of spider, which is 
sure to get introduced with the late Straw¬ 
berries, when the weather is hot. Vinery. —As 
the crop in the early house ripens, keep the 
air dry and cool, to improve the colour and 
flavour. The protecting materials on the out¬ 
side border should now be removed, and the 
border slightly forked, finishing by laying a 
thin coat of very rotten manure over the sur¬ 
face. The latest Vines will now be swelling 
their buds, and may therefore be tied up to 
the trellis. Syringe them several times daily, 
to induce a free break, but fire heat, excepting 
with Muscats, had better not be applied until 
the bloom is about opening; mind, that at no 
season will Muscats set well without fire heat 
and a dry temperature of 70° or 75°, and St. 
Peter’s and other late Grapes will set very 
much better if assisted with fire heat, to get 
the night temperature up to 70° during the 
time of blooming. After the berries are set, 
fire heat, except for Muscats, need only be 
applied in cold wet weather. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The principal work here will be a routine 
of thinning-out, hoeing, &c., between the ad¬ 
vancing crops. Sow on well-prepared beds 
the main crops of Borecole, Cottager’s Kale, 
Broccoli, Savoys, &c., for the main autumn 
and spring crops. Cauliflowers and Walcheren 
Broccoli may also be sown twice during the 
month. Prick-out Cauliflowers and early 
Broccolis from the seed-beds, as also Celery. 
The main crops of Dwarf Kidney Beans and 
