118 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
the cutting-pots. A strong leader should be trained upright to the desired 
height, when it should be stopped. A bunch of shoots will appear at the top; 
these, when long enough, may be drawn down with fine matting. The forma¬ 
tion of the head will then be a matter of time, and will simply require training 
into a rounded form. Whatever form it is desired to produce, it will be 
necessary to begin in time, while the plants are young, remembering that as 
the twig is bent so the tree is inclined. Using a little foresight is the main 
thing, and no difficulty will be experienced afterwards. 
Should the plants be showing flower sooner than is desired, they may be 
kept back by placing them in a pit facing the north, uncovering them entirely 
in fine mild weather, but protecting them from frost. When they are in bloom 
the more light they receive the brighter will be the flowers; but strong sun¬ 
light will fade them rapidly, and shading will keep them in flower longer than 
if left exposed to sunshine. After flowering the plants may be treated in a 
manner precisely similar to that previously described, going through the same 
course of treatment year after year. With the most ordinary care they will 
improve and become more valuable as they grow, and in three or four years 
they will become good specimens fit for exhibition. 
The Azalea is a plant that, once got into good form, may be kept so without 
sticks or ties; yet it will be as well every winter to look over them, and where 
a twig happens to project beyond its proper bounds it would be as well to cut it 
in, or draw it down. It will also be necessary each autumn to see that the wood 
is properly matured, and the bloom-buds are set before reducing the temperature, 
otherwise the plants are apt to start into growth before the buds open. The 
shedding of the leaves in autumn or winter is a natural process, and generally 
indicates that the ripening is complete. 
Azaleas are subject to the attacks of thrips when kept anyways dry while 
they are making their growth, or if placed near other plants infested with them. 
The best treatment will not save them ; but these insects may be destroyed by 
fumigation, or by syringing with Gishurst compound, mixed up in the propor¬ 
tion of H oz. to the gallon of hot water, and allowed to cool and settle before 
using. This, however, will have to be applied with force enough to get well 
under the leaves. They are also subject to mealy bug, or at least the bug 
attacks them when placed near any other plant infested with it. To eradicate 
this pest is not so easy. A sponge and good strong Gishurst I have found the 
best method of destroying it, syringing the plant in every direction after 
sponging. The only instance in which I have had to deal with bug and 
Azaleas was one in which- the plants were purchased when in bloom, and 
afterwards, when put in an increased temperature, the insects began to show 
themselves. They had evidently been crowded together amongst other plants 
in the nursery; otherwise I am confident that, with the most ordinary care, it 
is easy to keep this pest at a distance; and certainly very desirable, for nothing 
can be more troublesome to get rid of. 
As regards sorts, I am bound to confess that I have had few opportunities 
of noting the best sorts in general cultivation; nor can I conscientiously assert 
that I have made the most of what opportunities I have had, not having enter¬ 
tained the idea of giving a selection for public use. Regrets, however, are 
useless; and the next best thing I can do is to give a selection from sorts 
that I have grown. Some of those named were exhibited by me at the Corn 
Exchange, Birmingham, twelve months ago, at the first Show of the season 
held by the Handsworth Horticultural Society ; and others, again, later, at the 
Botanic Gardens, Birmingham. These sorts, however, may not be the best in 
general cultivation; but they are such as I can recommend, and certainly good 
enough to begin with. 
