136 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
fruit. Fruit swelling may, now there is 
plenty of light, have more warm and humid 
atmosphere, which Peaches delight in. When 
swelling off, be careful, however, to keep the 
night temperature down. 'Pinery. —• Fruit 
swelling off cannot well have too humid an 
atmosphere, if attended with light. Tie up 
fruit, to keep them upright. Water may be 
given now liberally if the soil in the pots is 
in good condition. Successions should be 
potted on and kept close to the glass as they 
get full of roots. Vinery. —Ripe Grapes re¬ 
quire plenty of air. The houses for ripening 
Grapes for winter should have fire heat when 
the weather is cool. Keep down spider and 
mildew by free ventilation and applying 
sulphur, mixed with lime, to the walls and 
heating apparatus. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Preparations for keeping up successional 
crops of vegetables will go hand in hand 
with cultural operations to growing crops, 
bearing in mind that by frequently stirring 
the earth between and around growing crops, 
you assist vegetable growth immensely, and 
add two-fold to the productive powers of the 
soil. In dry soils, mulching is the sheet 
anchor of the gardener for getting quick¬ 
growing crisp vegetables, and we cannot too 
strongly recommend the practice, having pre¬ 
viously well loosened the surface. Half- 
decayed dung, leaves, or in fact any litter 
which will cover the surface soil without 
blowing about will do good. Peas, Beans, 
French Beans, Cauliflowers, Lettuces, Spin¬ 
ach, &c., should be sown at intervals during 
the month. We find a good early Pea, as 
Goliath or Sangster’s, makes a good late one. 
but the Mammoth is our favourite. Plant 
out Celery and Cardoons in well-manured 
trenches, and on this plan the best crops of 
late Peas are to be obtained. Tomatoes 
should be planted against south walls, or on 
a warm border, to cover the soil. 
FRUIT GARDEN. 
Hardy Fruit. —Let the wall trees have every 
attention. Peaches which have been crippled 
with the cold weather will require much care 
to get into good wood for another season. 
Continue to watch for and keep down insects. 
Let disbudding and nailing-in proceed when¬ 
ever the year’s wood is sufficiently advanced. 
Newly planted trees may be required to be 
mulched should the weather become hot or 
dry. We say nothing about thinning; those 
who have a superabundance may do so; we 
have not. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Everything in the planting-out way should 
be brought to a close as quickly as possible. 
Plants of straggling habit should be at once 
secured by pegging or tying, as the wind may 
break them. We are no advocates for much 
watering, but when the ground becomes dry, 
give a good soaking, and allow the soil to 
again get dry before repeating. On many 
soils daily slight waterings do more mischief 
than good. As the plants progress let them 
be properly trained, to cover the surface of 
the bed. Plants in ribbon borders must have 
their lines well defined, to be effective. Stake 
Hollyhocks and all tall-growing plants. Her¬ 
baceous plants, as Asters, Phloxes, Delphi¬ 
niums, when too thick, may have their shoots 
thinned out. The new herbaceous Phloxes 
are fine things for autumn decoration, and 
equally useful for cutting, and should be well 
encouraged. Sow Brompton Stocks for next 
season’s flowering. Hardy annuals may be 
sown for late blooming, and tender annuals 
transferred to borders. Attend to keeping 
close Grass verges and lawns. When the 
planting-out is done, will be a good time to 
fresh gravel the walks, as they will then 
keep a fresh appearance through the season. 
Tie out plants in vases or baskets, so as to 
present a natural appearance ; and look well 
to tying in Roses and climbing plants gene¬ 
rally on walls, trellises, &c. Gold Frames .— 
As these are now clear, fill with Balsams, 
Lilies, Cape Bulbs, or, indeed, anything in the 
way of greenhouse plants, to forward for 
bloom in the autumn. 
florists’ flowers. 
Auriculas. —Place these in a cool shady 
situation, taking the precaution not to allow 
the drips from trees or buildings to fall upon 
them. Green-fly will be troublesome, but must 
be kept under ; if infected, remove the plants 
to a pit, that they may be effectually fumi¬ 
gated. Carnations and Picotees .—The main 
shoots should now be carefully tied to nice 
green stakes. Remove any dead foliage, and 
likewise any surface soil that may have become 
green and sour—replacing with fresh. These 
also are frequently attacked with green-fly 
at this season, which should be brushed from 
the points of the shoots as they appear, and 
occasionally wash them with tobacco water. 
Dahlias. — Complete planting as soon as 
possible. The soil having been well pre¬ 
pared during winter, a little rotten manure 
to each plant is all that will be required, unless 
the soil is very stiff, when a little leaf-mould 
may be advantageously applied to give the 
plant a fair start. Keep them regularly and 
well watered, and secure them to stakes at 
the time of planting. Hollyhocks. —Mulch 
these, after which give them a thorough good 
watering, and continue to give them a good 
soaking once or twice a-week, according to 
the weather. Secure the plants to strong- 
stakes firmly placed in the ground. Pansies 
—These must be propagated as often as fresh 
| cuttings can be obtained. They strike best 
on a shady border under small hand-glasses. 
Tulips. —Beds that have been covered should 
now be uncovered, and allowed all the 
weather, unless we get very heavy rains. Too 
much moisture would be injurious. 
