140 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
but those having fruit on their base should be pinched back to two or three leaves. 
In our climate it is absolutely necessary that the sun should reach every leaf of 
the tree that the wood and buds may be properly matured. On spur-bearing 
trees too many blossom-buds must be carefully guarded against. In general too 
many are left on the trees, and when they get crowded the blossoms are often 
imperfect, and drop off without setting, and the weather is then often blamed 
when it has had nothing to do with the matter. I would strongly urge attention 
to this point, as I consider it of more importance than is generally thought. 
I am perfectly aware that summer pruning must be done at a season when 
people, and gardeners in particular, have plenty of other work on their hands, 
but as it is the proper time for pruning it should not be neglected. In order to 
keep trees in a healthy bearing state in our climate, it is necessary, especially on 
strong soils, to prune the roots in the autumn; but the inexperienced should 
proceed cautiously in this operation. It is best only to operate on trees that 
produce a superabundance of gross wood without much fruit. As long as trees 
are healthy and bear fine abundant crops it is best not to attempt it. 
The state of fruit-tree cultivation out of doors is a disgrace to us. Even in 
market gardens, where one would naturally look for something better, fruit-tree 
cultivation is anything but satisfactory. 
Proper summer pruning, and careful, judicious root-pruning when necessary, 
are the groundwork of good cultivation. By constant careful attention to these 
we shall keep our fruit trees in a healthy vigorous state, and they will annually 
yield us fine crops of superior fruit, no matter what the seasons may be. 
Stourton. M. Saul. 
WINTERING BEDDING CALCEOLARIAS. 
How to winter a large stock of bedding stuff in the smallest available space, 
and with the least possible expense, is to the gardener at all times a matter of 
considerable importance, and on which much of the success of his summer 
display materially depends. In the few following observations I propose to detail 
the method I practise of wintering the bedding Calceolaria Aurea fioribunda, 
not only because it is eminently successful, but is at the same time so simple in 
its arrangement, and so cheap as to realise to some extent the school boy’s simile, 
“ As easy as nothing, and as cheap as dirt.” 
But first let it be understood, that as far as I have yet practised it my mode 
applies only to Calceolaria Aurea fioribunda. That it may prove as successful in 
the case of other hardy bedding kinds I have no doubt, but I have no desire to 
recommend more than what I have myself put into practice, 
v And now for the details. About the first week in October I make up in a 
sheltered situation, but fully exposed to the sun, a framework of wood composed 
of planks 12 inches wide and 1 inch in diameter. In arranging the size of my 
frame I allow a space of 5 feet by 2i for twelve dozen cuttings. I put at the 
bottom 3 inches of moderately good soil, over this 3 inches of finely sifted mould 
well mixed with sand, the whole being firmly pressed down before putting in the 
cuttings, which I do immediately after. Round the outside of the frame I bank 
up the soil, which materially aids in keeping out frost. After having sprinkled 
and shaded the cuttings for a week, or ten days if necessary, I leave them exposed 
till the frost sets in, and then I afford them the shelter of an old door or shutter 
during the night, giving them all possible exposure to sun and air when safe to 
do so ; but when severe frost sets in I keep them covered up quite close till a thaw 
comes, and even though the soil within the frame may have been frozen hard, 
yet if the cuttings are not exposed to the light till the frost is quite gone they 
will be found not to be in any degree injured thereby. 
