160 
THE FLORIST AND FOMOLOGIST. 
be supplied with during the period of ripen¬ 
ing, the higher will be their flavour. Shading 
such plants as the Melon is decidedly bad 
practice, but constant attention to a uniform 
root-action, by keeping a moderate bottom 
heat, is indispensable. The soil in which they 
grow should be moist, but not wet. Give 
water “a little and often,” to avoid the ex¬ 
tremes of wet and dryness, which would be 
fatal to the crop. Should red spider attack 
the foliage, wash the interior sides of the pit 
or frame with a little sulphur. There is still 
time to plant for the latest crop. Veach-lxouse. 
—As the fruit is cleared, go over tbe trees, 
and remove any useless wood not required for 
bearing next year. The trees should be kept 
well washed every morning to keep down 
insects, and have a large supply of air, to 
assist in ripening the wood. If the trees are 
young, or are making too strong wood, keep 
the borders dry; on the contrary, weak trees, 
or which have been overcropped, should lave 
waterings of manure water applied two or 
three times during the next two months, 
j Pinery .-—Tbe plants for producing winter fruit 
should now be showing fruit, and will require 
plenty of air, to get the shows up strong. 
The first batch of plants to fruit next season 
early should now be sufAcientlv advanced to 
be potted into fruiting-pots. Pot on succes¬ 
sions as they require it; also tbe suckers 
taken from the present season’s stools. Vinery. 
—When the fruit i=> all cleared from the early 
house, let the foliage be kept well washed 
daily, and every, means taken to keep the 
leaves healthy, as long as possible, to invigor¬ 
ate the Vines for another season. The inside 
borders, if become dry, should also be watered, 
taking proner care of the foliage. Vines 
though early forced may he kept in a good 
productive state for many years. Attend to 
late Grapes, by thinning those not yet set, 
and other points of treatment. Outside 
borders, after the late dry weather, may re¬ 
quire water, but all will depend on the com¬ 
position. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The crops of autumn Greens and Broccoli 
should be planted as quicklv as the ground 
can be got readv. All the Kales (including 
of course the Cottager’s), Brussels Sprouts, 
and Savoys, require to be in early. As these 
crops will generally follow early Peas or 
Potatoes, and supposing the ground manured 
for them, no further preparation will be 
necessary, bevond digging the land over. 
A good breadth of Endive may now be sown, 
and also suoccssional crops of Lettuces, 
Spinach. Radishes, and Carrots to draw young. 
The main crop of winter Turnips should now 
be sown. Snowball, Early Mousetail, and 
Stone are the best garden varieties. The last 
crop of Peas may now be sown, using any 
good early sorts, and also French Beans, and 
a row or two of the Mazagan or Dwarf Bush, 
and Broad Beans for the chance of a few in 
October. Celery planting should be followed 
up at every opportunity. Cauliflowers and 
Walcheren Broccoli may also be planted, and 
the last sowing to come in this year should 
be sown at once; we prefer the Walcheren 
Broccoli and Stadtholder Cauliflower for this 
sowing. Water must be given liberally 
whenever the ground becomes dry, or make 
use of irrigation when practicable. 
FRUIT GARDEN. 
Hardy Fruit .'--Nothing more can be done to 
wall trees, beyond what we stated in our last. 
Protect Strawberries and bush fruit from birds. 
Strawberry runners should at once be laid 
into small^pots for forcing, and after planting 
Strawberries will require very liberal water¬ 
ings ; and. on dry soils, Raspberries and bush 
fruits will be much benefited by mulching 
over the surface, between the plants, and a 
portion of the summer’s wood cut away im¬ 
mediately after gathering the fruit, if not 
before. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Cold Frames .—See our last notice, to which 
add Achimenes, which may be brought for¬ 
ward nicelv in frames, as also Lycopods and 
Ferns, if kept shaded and damp. Flower 
Garden .—Tbe principal work to be done in 
this department will be merely of a routine 
character—tying, pegging, pruning, and train¬ 
ing, everything in its way. As the edging of 
flower-beds is now very generally adopted, 
these, to be effective, should be kept very 
neat and regular. Watering will be required 
to most things until they have covered the 
ground. Pinch off the blooms when you do 
not want a very early display, until the 
plants are well established, when the bloom 
will be more uniform and regular. Hardy 
biennials and perennials sown this spring 
may now be pricked out into nursery-beds, 
to remain for 'the present. Keep hedges 
neatly cut, and the grass and gravel in good 
order ; then an air of high keeping may per¬ 
vade the whole. 
florist’s flowers. 
Carnations and Picotees .—Careful watering 
must be observed, as it tends to prolong the 
duration of the bloom. Protect the flowers 
from the scorching sun and from wet. Should 
the method of piping be adopted as a means of 
increasing stock, the sooner it is attended to 
the better, otherwise layering will be a better 
plan. Dahlias. —Watering, mulching, and 
keeping down insects, will all help to make 
these grow luxuriantly. The first and great 
point towards success is to grow a fine plant, 
after which skill and judgment in thinning 
must be brought to bear; and nothing but 
j close observation will accomplish this, as 
scarcely two varieties require precisely the 
same treatment. Pinks and Pansies. —Pro¬ 
pagate these by the usual method of pipings ; 
j the latter will require a shady border, but 
! Pinks do best on a slight hotbed. 
