232 
THE FLORIST AND POMOLOGIST. 
and the empty Melon and Cucumber pits 
should have the soil turned up and watered, 
and the pits filled with French Beans (which 
may have been sprouted for the purpose in 
heat), Lettuce, Endive, Parsley, and other 
things required for winter. Plant the Beans, 
if you have the room to spare, in pits heated 
so that you can give them a little fire-heat 
by-and-by; they will frequently continue 
bearing till Christmas, or even later. AVe 
prefer the Newington AYonder. Vinery .— 
The earliest house of Vines, if Grapes are 
required next April, should be pruned at 
once, the Vines dressed, and the sashes put 
on towards the end of the month, previously 
covering the border, if outside, with a good 
coat of leaves or fern. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Plant a good breadth of Cabbage for early 
spring use; also Cauliflowers sown last month 
should be pricked out in well-enriched soil 
five or six together, to be covered hereafter 
with hand-glasses. Another portion of the 
plants should be pricked into cold frames, to 
he protected by glass during severe weather, 
and a portion also may be pricked out on a 
warm south border, to take their chance. A 
portion of the true Bath Cos Lettuce may also 
be treated the same, and fill up the bases of 
walls and other sheltered places with good 
hardy varieties of Cabbage Lettuce, to stand 
the winter. Broccoli, Borecole, &c., should 
be frequently hoed between, and finally 
earthed up before frosts come on. Continue 
earthing up Celery and Cardoons, and tying 
up Lettuce and Endive, as the weather per¬ 
mits, and have the ground well stirred between 
every growing crop. Potatoes and Carrots 
may now be taken up and stored away; take 
especial care the latter are quite dry when 
put away. Remove all kinds of litter, de¬ 
cayed vegetables, &c., from the ground, and 
spread quicklime over the newly cleared 
ground; this will kill slugs, and' save you 
much trouble in the spring. 
FRUIT GARDEN. 
Hardy Fruit .—Many kinds of Apples and 
Pears should be gathered at once, where not 
already done ; a few late-ripening kinds may 
remain longer on the trees. In keeping the 
fruit, let all the finest specimens be laid 
separately in the fruit-room, and handled 
as slightly as possible, even when being 
gathered ; those intended for long keeping 
should on no account be tumbled together. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
All the one-year-old Scarlet Geraniums, 
including, too, the variegated class, which it 
is practicable to winter in any shape, should 
be taken up on the approach of frost, and 
either potted or packed in boxes, in dry sandy 
soil. These plants will bloom much earlier 
and more profusely the second year than the 
first, however well they are prepared; indeed, 
we are in the habit of keeping some kinds as 
long as we can, as we find them much more 
telling for certain purposes than young plants. 
Some of our vase Geraniums have six or seven 
hundred heads of bloom open at one time, 
and these in very small vases. AYhen the 
above are potted, they should he placed under 
glass for a short time to enable them to re¬ 
cover themselves, after which their wintering 
will depend on what accommodation exists. 
Salvias, Fuchsias, tall Lobelias, &c., may 
also be lifted, and, if done with care, they 
will soon rally, and become very ornamental 
for mixing with greenhouse and conservatory 
plants. Now is a good time to putin cuttings 
of Calceolarias. Get the rest of the propagat¬ 
ing finished quickly, and harden off those al¬ 
ready struck. Pay attention to order and 
neatness by picking off decayed blooms and 
leaves and keeping the grass and gravel clean. 
florists’ flowers. 
Auriculas .—These may be removed to a 
southern or western situation for the winter; 
the latter is preferable. Cleanse the frames 
and glass, that w r hen necessary to cover the 
plants these may have the full benefit of the 
light. Continue to keep the soil moist 
through the month, and open the surface as 
often as it appears closed. Look well after 
insects. Carnations and Picotees .—Potting 
for winter should now be completed. Never 
take the layers from the stools when in a wet 
state. Remove dead foliage, and grow them 
as hardy as possible. Dahlias .—Seed should 
now be saved as often as it can be gathered 
ripe and dry. Remove all dead petals, other¬ 
wise the seed will rot in the pods, there being 
so much moisture at this time; a long piece 
of the footstalk should be gathered with it. 
See that all are correctly named before the 
frost arrives; also mark promising seed¬ 
lings. Hollyhocks. The stools of choice 
kinds may be potted-up, to produce cuttings 
during the winter. Cuttings will now strike 
readily if a little bottom heat is used; repot 
those first struck in nice light rich soil. 
Pinks .—If not already done, finish planting 
out info their blooming-beds, to enable them 
to get thoroughly established before winter. 
Great care should be taken after planting to 
keep the surface in a pliable state by stirring 
or hoeing on a dry day, as this will tend to 
facilitate their growth. The taller-growing 
varieties should be secured by small sticks, 
to preserve them against strong winds. At 
the end of the month, pot up such varieties 
as are required for wintering in pots. Tulips. 
—Examine the bulbs, and if not previously 
done, let them now be arranged for planting, 
making any alterations and improvements 
noted down at blooming-time. New varie¬ 
ties should now be procured, and then re¬ 
arrange them. The bed should now be pre¬ 
pared, that they may be got in about the 1st 
of November. 
