^NOVEMBER. 
255 
CALENDAR OF 
CONSERVATORY AND SHOW-HOUSE. 
This department will now require every 
care to maintain a display of bloom, and to 
preserve the necessary neatness and order, 
that at the same time it may afford an enjoy¬ 
able retreat in bad weather, or during the 
evening, if it is accessible from the mansion. 
Heliotropes, Mignonette, Jasmines, Tea Roses, 
Daphne indica, Violets, and other sweet- 
scented plants, should be largely introduced ; 
and more showy plants, as Chrysanthemums, 
Salvias, tall Lobelias, Fuchsias, Gesneras, 
Belladonna and Guernsey Lilies, and many 
kinds of Amaryllis, may also be added, to set 
off the permanent occupants, and warm up 
the building by giving colour. A most use¬ 
ful conservatory plant is Heterocentrum 
roseum, which, under good cultivation, flowers 
profusely at this season. A few things may 
be added from the stove, as Hedychiums, 
Crinums, and Begonias, as they come into 
bloom. Fires will now be necessary, and 
should be stirred up briskly on damp morn¬ 
ings to dry the atmosphere after watering and 
cleaning out, giving air at the same time. 
Night temperature, 45°. 
GREENHOUSE. 
Azaleas and Camellias .—The buds of the 
Camellias, where set too thickly, should be 
thinned out at once. During winter, the 
plants intended for blooming late should be 
kept cool, but at the same time well attended 
to with water, as the buds are now filling 
themselves; weakly and underpotted plants 
will be benefited, even now, with weak 
manure water occasionally. Place a few of 
the earliest-rested Camellias in a rather 
warmer house to bring them into bloom 
quicker. Small plants are invaluable for 
rooms during the winter, and should be 
brought on in succession. Azaleas, keep cool, 
and with a dryish atmosphere. A few good 
forcing kinds may now be placed in a warmer 
house to forward them. Cinerarias .—This and 
next month are the worst for the culture of 
this plant, being subject to mildew ; great care 
must be taken to sulphur such as are infected 
by it. Specimen plants will now require great 
attention : thin out all small and decaying 
leaves, and peg down the strong, to admit the 
light and air. Such as are required for early 
flowering may now have their final shift; 
stop—that is, pinch out, the tops of their shoots 
as soon as thoroughly established. In potting, 
give a light compost, viz.,—two parts good 
turfy loam, with a good admixture of well- 
decomposed stable manure, and leaf mould; 
use sand liberally. In placing, keep as near 
the glass as possible. Hardwooded Plants 
will now be under glass; water only when 
the soil in the pots becomes dry, and then 
thoroughly; give air on all opportunities both 
OPERATIONS. 
day and night in mild weather, and set the 
plants sufficiently wide apart to prevent draw¬ 
ing, and also to preserve the foliage healthy 
down to the edges of the pots. Any Heaths 
affected with mildew should be dusted with 
sulphur, or washed with a weak solution 
of Gishurst compound. Pelargoniums .— 
These will require much care to prevent their 
getting drawn, when growing freely, and 
therefore will want plenty of air at all favour¬ 
able opportunities. Make fires only in frosty 
and very damp weather, both of which may 
now bo anticipated. If previous directions 
have been attended to with early specimen 
plants, little can be done this month, except 
with the training of the young shoots; let 
them be tied out carefully, as it will greatly 
benefit and strengthen them. Avoid crowding 
the plants ; let them have all the room that 
can possibly be spared. Be careful in water¬ 
ing at this season ; only water those that are 
really dry, and avoid wetting the foliage. 
Continue to repot any plants that require it, 
and also stop young struck plants. Cuttings 
will strike freely now in heat, and withal at¬ 
tend strictly to cleanliness. 
FORCING. 
Forcing-Ground. —■Mushroom-beds should 
now be made for winter. Where there is a 
large family to supply, Seakalo and Rhubarb 
should be started at once, that the forcing may 
be slow—always attended with the best 
success. Where space is not an object, and 
there is plenty of leaves or stable manure, we 
prefer the old plan of covering the crowns 
with pots, and then forcing by covering with 
leaves, or litter and leaves mixed. In the 
other case, Rhubarb roots may be taken up, 
potted, and introduced wherever there is a 
slight heat; and Sea-kale may be successfully 
forced by packing the roots closely together 
in a common frame or pit, and working them 
by linings; the crowns should be covered 
with a dry material to blanch them. Fill a 
pit or frame with Asparagus roots (good three 
or four-year-old plants) over a gentle bottom 
heat, when a supply is wanted in November. 
Peach-house .—The sashes may be placed on 
the earliest house Avhen Peaches are required 
in May. Dress over the trees and train them 
regularly, and surface over the border with 
fresh loam. Fires need not be applied for a 
fortnight, and then only by day, as artificial 
heat to a small extent will be required. 
Pinery .—Plants swelling their fruit should be 
supplied with a moist warm atmosphere, more 
especially by day. When the sun is bright 
close the house early, but allow air to be 
given freely early in the mornings -when the 
weather is mild ; the night temperature may 
be 65°, with a steady bottom heat. Succes¬ 
sions should now be kept drier, but do not allow 
either the bottom or top heat to fall below 
