1891 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
125 
with little difference between them Observation and in¬ 
quiry among fruit growers in the immediate section in 
which planting is to be done is the best and surest means 
of making a wise selection. Too much care cannot be 
taken, as irrevocable years of time and of either enjoy¬ 
ment or disappointment are involved in the decision. 
Showy Hardy Flowers In Succession, etc. 
F. IF. IF., Leominster, Mass.— 1. Is there any apple 
earlier than the R d Astrachan ? 2. What pears will 
keep later than Anjou ? 3. What are the names of good 
varieties of hardy flowers—from the earliest to the latest— 
that will make the finest display ? 
Ans.— 1. Yes; theYellow Transparent and Yellow Tetof- 
sky. 2. Winter Nelis, Josephine de Malines and Easter 
Beurrd. 3. The following flowers are named in the order 
of their blooming: Phlox subulata, primrose, trillium, 
saxifrage, arabis, iberis, aquileglas, asperula, astilbe, iris, 
campanula, lysimachia, herbaceous spiraeas, papaver, 
pyrethrum, monarda, delphinium, hollyhocks, fall-grown 
phlox, perennial sunflower, coreopsis, Harpalium rigidum, 
tritomas, Anemone Japonicum. 
Sowing Oats and Peas Together for Feed. 
IF. 0. F., Oreensburg, Ind. —I believe I have read some¬ 
where in the writings of Henry Stewart that oats and 
peas make a good combination crop. Can any one give 
me information on the subject ? How should they be put 
in ? Should not the peas be planted deep and the oats 
quite shallow ? When should such a crop be harvested ? 
I suppose only a hay crop could be made out of it. Can a 
stand of clover and Timothy be secured with such a sow¬ 
ing ? 
ANSWERED BY H. STEWART. 
Oats and peas grown together are an old crop, grown in 
Scotland and England for grain as well as fodder. The 
mixed grain is called “meslins,” and when coarsely ground 
for horses is an excellent food: 2X bushels of oats and one 
of peas are sown to the acre, as early in the spring as pos¬ 
sible. As corn, peas and oats require good covering, I have 
found it the best way to cover the seeds with a common cul¬ 
tivator or an Acme harrow, which brings them up in rows. 
Three inches in depth is not too much covering for either, 
but two inches is enough. The oats hold up the peas. If cut 
for fodder, the time for harvesting is when the peas are in 
full blossom; the oats are then in full head, but with no 
grain formed. The crop may be cut with a harvester and 
raked off by hand into bundles, but cannot well be cut 
with a mower, unless one follows with a rake and pulls 
the growth loose from the standing grain. When left to 
ripen, the grain is thrashed out and the straw is worth 
more for hay, being eaten with avidity by horses as well 
as cattle and sheep. The double yield of grain is usually 
as much as would be got from each separately. It would 
not be advisable to sow clover and grass with this crop, 
but, as it comes off early, the land may be thoroughly 
harrowed and sown down at once as it is cleared. The 
seed should be lightly harrowed in and a sufficient growth 
will be made to stand the winter. The Black-eye Marrow¬ 
fat Pea is the best kind to sow. 
Raspberries. 
IF. S. M , Steadman, N. Y.—l wish to set out an acre of 
raspberries in the spring—some red, but most black. 
Which kinds are best and how far apart should they beset 
each way ? 
Ans. —We do not know of a better red raspberry than 
the Cuthbert. This is late. For early we must name the 
Marlboro, though it fails in some localities. For caps, we 
may mention Hilborn, Souhegan and Tyler, while advising 
a trial of Palmer, Progress and Lovett. Caps for garden 
culture may be planted four feet apart each way. For an 
acre, we should set them about six by four feet. The 
reds will not require quite so much space, say six by 
three feet. 
Hen Manure. 
O. IF. D., Nantucket, Mass.— I have 50 barrels of hen 
manure and an acre of grass land seeded last year; would 
it be advisable to apply the manure as a top-dressing ? If 
so, how much to the acre, and when would be the best 
time ? 
Ans.— We would add potash to the hen manure, prefer¬ 
ably in the form of unleached ashes, which contain 
some phosphoric acid as well as about six per cent of 
potash. Hen manure, which contains the liquid as well 
as the solid excrements of fowls, is strong in nitrogen, but 
low in potash, and not very strong in phosphoric acid. The 
good thing about it is that its plant food constituents are 
in a very soluble condition. Apply in the spring as much 
as you like—all the way from 10 to 25 barrels per acre. 
Natural Cross-fertilization of Potatoes. 
M. S. H., Delavan, Wis.—\. Why does the potato blossom 
break at the first joint and drop off ? 2. How far apart 
would it be possible for different varieties of potatoes to 
cross-fertilize each other ? How far asunder should they 
be so that one can be fairly sure that they will not do so ? 
Ans.— 1. The “first joint” alluded to may be regarded as 
the flower stem proper, something equivalent to the stem 
of an apple. If the ovules become fertilized, growth begins, 
resulting in the apple or potato ball. If fertilization does 
not occur, the flower in either case withers and falls, carry¬ 
ing with it the stem or peduncle. 2. We do not quite 
understand the question. It is probable that many kinds 
of potatoes can not be induced to fruit, even though pollen 
were abundantly supplied, owing to impotency caused by 
long-continued culture for the largest crop of tubers. We 
have doubts whether pollen is ever carried from one 
flower to another of potato plants, but have not the infor¬ 
mation to speak with authority. It is our impression that 
when pollen forms, the stigma receives it before it appears 
above the stamens. We should not, therefore, count upon 
cross fertilization at all, whether the plants be close to¬ 
gether or far apart. 
Fertilizers for Feeding Worn Land. 
IF. M. F., Northford, Conn. —I have a field of about 12 
acres, about one mile from my barn and difficult of access. 
I would like to raise Timothy hay for market upon it, 
with as little cultivation as possible. Five acres were 
seeded with oats and rye last year and five more have been 
mowed for only two years and gave good, fair crops of 
clover. Can I, by top-dressing, raise good crops year after 
year ? The Mapes Company says yes. I have thought to 
turn under a crop of clover one year in seven and seed the 
land again in September, sowing a few turnips with the 
grass for shade. The land is in poor condition, not having 
received much manure since I have known it. I have used 
bone and potash with very good results in.seeding down. 
I can get all kinds of fertilizers (mixed and unmixed) in 
New Haven only eight miles distant. 
ANSWERED BY D. C. LEWIS. 
If the field to which W. M. F. refers is naturally good 
Timothy land, he can build it up as well as maintain it in 
grass for many years by using commercial fertilizers in 
liberal quantities, and by top-dressing it every second 
year. I would not agree that this could be accomplished 
without the use of nitrogen. In my judgment the Mapes 
light soil or grass and grain fertilizers would give the de¬ 
sired result. I have one illustration in mind, where a field, 
situated about the same distance from home, had not 
received any yard manures for over 25 years, having been 
used for pasture, as a rule. The owner plowed it, and 
planted it to corn with a liberal application of corn ferti¬ 
lizer, and secured a good crop, which was cut up and 
carried off, and the ground was sown to wheat with an 
application of 400 pounds of light-soil fertilizer per acre. 
It produced a good wheat crop, and two years afterward 
it was top-dressed and it has never given better results 
under any other treatment than when the rotation was 
corn, wheat and grass, and I believe the owner is satisfied 
that he can keep up its fertility and that witn more satis¬ 
factory results than by any former treatment, aud at less 
cost. I have a field which I shall mow this year for the 
fifth season; it has been top-dressed three times with not 
over 200 pounds of fertilizer per acre, and has never failed 
to cut from two to three tons of hay per acre 
Handling Manure In Heaps. 
E. R M., Fiat Rock, N. C —What is the most scientific 
and approved method of managing a manure pile? 
ANSWERED BY II. STEWART. 
The purpose of putting manure in heaps is to cause it to 
decompose and become fit for use for plant food. When fresh 
it contains very little plant food, and this is mostly in the 
liquid part of it. The solid parts must be decomposed be¬ 
fore they will furnish food for plants, Heat and moisture 
are the most effective agents of decomposition, hence the 
manure must be put into such a heap as will favor fermen¬ 
tation while preserving the moisture as much as pos¬ 
sible. Thus a square heap, flat on the top, is moie effective 
for these purposes than a conical one, because it best en¬ 
courages and retains the heat and collects and holds the 
moisture. The best practice is to put the manure in 
squarely built heaps four feet high a ad as broad and long 
as may be; the top Is left somewhat hollow or quite fiat to 
hold all the rain that may fall. The manure heats rapidly 
and will give off its moisture quickly in vapor and injuri¬ 
ously, unless this is prevented by turning over the heap 
in some such manner as this: one begins at the end and 
moves the manure three feet or so, building it up with the 
manure that was outside, on the inside. The whole heap 
is thus turned over, preserving its shape and being merely 
moved three or four feet from its original position. This 
turning greatly helps to break up and mix the mass and 
make it finer for use. If it becomes necessary, as may be 
the case with manure made from highly fed animals, an¬ 
other turning should be given. As I have myself moved a 
ton of manure in this way in 15 minutes, a strong man 
should be able to do better, but at least he should turn 
over a large pile in a day, say 25 or 30 tons. Great strength 
is not so much needed as ability to handle a fork quickly 
and well. The labor is thus not lost but is well employed 
in preparing the manure for use. To mix gypsum (land 
plaster) liberally with the manure at the last turning is ad¬ 
visable, as it will prevent the escape of any ammonia which 
may possibly, but scarcely probably, be evolved in the heap. 
The powerful odor of fermenting manure is not due to the 
escape of ammonia, but to hydrogen compounds formed by 
the decomposition of the carbonaceous matter, I never yet 
detected, nor ever heard of any expert detecting, any escape 
of ammonia, even by the use of sensitive litmus paper, 
from a heap of manure managed in this way. Lastly, all 
kinds of the manure made should be mixed in the heap. 
Commercial Fertilizers for Melons, Sweet Pota¬ 
toes, etc. 
C. H. H., Terre Haute, Ind.—l. In the absence of well 
decayed compost as a fertilizer for musk-melons, what 
chemicals can be employed with satisfactory results ? 2. 
What should also be used for tomatoes or sweet potatoes ? 
3. Is it possible to buy unadulterated Peruvian guano ? 
The writer saw an excellent crop of musk-melons grown 
last year with the use of a Chicago fertilizer. The land, 
however, had been under clover the previous year. 4. Now, 
how much was due to the clover and how much to the 
fertilizer is a question. We start our early melons here 
under glass in a cold-frame. It’s an expensive operation 
to begin with, and especially so if any mistakes are made 
either in the frame or open ground. 
Ans.— 1. Any commercial fertilizer containing the plant 
food elements, nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash, in 
readily available forms, could be substituted for compost 
in the raising of musk-melons. A mixture of 400 pounds 
of cotton seed meal, 50 pounds of nitrate of soda, 400 
pounds of bone-black superphosphate, and 150 pounds of 
muriate of potash, would make an excellent fertilizer, and 
an application of 800 to 1,000 pounds per acre would prob¬ 
ably be sufficient for land in an average state of fertility. 
Cotton seed meal is recommended as a source of organic 
nitrogen, since it has been found to act quickly, and is 
probably cheap in your section; even at $25 per ton it is 
one of the cheapest sources of nitrogen we have. 2. The 
same mixture may be used for sweet potatoes and toma¬ 
toes, though for the latter an additional application of 
about 100 pounds per acre of nitrate of soda, about three 
weeks afcer the plants are set, will materially aid in crop 
production. 3. Yes. From “The Mapes Formula and 
Peruvian Guano Company,” 158 Front Street, New York 
City. 4. It would be a difficult matter to determine the 
amount of plant food furnished by the plowing in of a 
clover sod, for, in addition to the plant food in the clover 
and roots, there is also a very beneficial mechanical effect 
upon the soil. 
How to Use Superphosphates, etc. 
E. L., Cheektowaga, N. Y.— How should I use nitrate 
of soda ? Will It hurt strawberries, onions, etc , as a top¬ 
dressing ? How should superphosphate be used ? 
Ans.—N itrate of soda is sold by all fertilizer firms— 
usually in 200 pound bags. In order to insure an even 
distribution it is well to mix it with two or even three 
times its bulk of soil or earth of some kind. Commercial 
superphosphate consists of ground bones, bone-black, 
phosphorite or South Carolina rock treated with sul¬ 
phuric acid, so that a portion of the insoluble phosphoric 
acid they contain is rendered soluble in water. Chemical 
superphosphate is a soluble salt composed of one equiva¬ 
lent of phosphoric acid, one of lime and 10 of water, and is 
the characteristic ingredient of the commercial superphos¬ 
phate of lime. We should never apply a superphosphate 
alone. It would injure every seed with which it came in 
contact. It should be used as a part of a complete fer¬ 
tilizer or extended with soil. 
Currants. 
O. M. V., Ypsilanti, Mich. —Is there any currant selling 
for more, or yielding any better returns, than the Red 
Dutch f 
Ans.—I t is of good quality, but too small to command 
the first prices. Fay’s will sell for more. So will the 
Cherry. 
Raising Mealy Potatoes. 
G. W. P., Roselle, N. J. —How can I raise nice, mealy 
potatoes ? 
ANS.—We fancy that mealy potatoes may always be 
grown on a well-drained soil that is not at any time liable 
to become water soaked. A sandy soil is conducive to 
mealiness, a clayey soil to sogginess—that, at any rate, is 
The R. N.-Y.’s experience. 
MISCELLANEOUS. 
D. W. N., Hampton, Va. —Which are the best early 
tomatoes ? What are the merits of Dwarf Champion 
Tomato ? 
Ans.—P relude is the earliest atthe Rural Grounds. The 
Dwarf Champion is medium in size, smooth and solid, 
aud the vines are less rank than those of other kinds. 
J. H., Susquehanna, Pa. —1. Who has the Lincoln 
Plum for sale? 2. Is White’s Northern Muscat Grape 
hardy, early and good ? 3. Would not spraying fruit 
trees with the arsenites near the house and barn where 
the birds nest in them, and the hens are at liberty, be 
unsafe? 4. What is a good small pump for spraying small 
fruits ? 
ANS.—1. J. T. Lovett, Little Silver, N. J. 2. Culinary 
Grape Company, Troy, O. 3. We do not suppose that 
either the birds or hens would eat enough of the leaves to 
injure themselves. 4. The Aquapult, made by J. B. & W. 
Douglas, Middleton, Conn. 
F. J. P., Westfield, N. Y. —Which of the new varieties 
of potatoes does The R N.-Y. consider the best in quality 
and productiveness ? What are the names of some of the 
leading early and late kinds ? 
Ans.—S uch questions The R. N.-Y. always answers with 
some reluctance. The kinds that are most valued with 
us may fail elsewhere. Among the earlier, we may men¬ 
tion Crown Jewel, Pearl of Savoy, Early Sunrise, and 
Beauty of Hebron. They are in fact a good deal alike. 
For later potatoes, quality being a first consideration, 
Puritan, Polaris, White Star. For latest Brownell’s 
Winner, White Elephant, and R N.-Y., No. 2. 
F. M. B., Cincinnati, O .—1. Which Is the better for spray¬ 
ing apples—London-purple or Paris-green ? 2. How much 
water should be used for a pound of either ? 
Ans.— 1. Paris-green is preferable to London purple, 
because not so soluble, and therefore less liable to injure 
vegetation. 2. Two hundred gallons. 
J. A. P., Wilawana, Pa .—1. Would a piece of ground 
that is well adapted to corn, be suitable for asparagus ? It 
had, two years ago, an application of Mapes’s Potato Man¬ 
ure at the rate of 1,200 pounds per acre and is now in 
clover, which I wish to plow under. 2, How far apart 
should the plants be set for field culture, and what is the 
best variety ? 3. Is the Gandy Strawberry a good variety ? 
4. Would a piece now in strawberries be good for celery if 
plowed as soon as the vines are through bearing, if it re¬ 
ceives a good application of fertilizer ? The soil is moist, 
but pretty well drained. 5. What is a good dwarf variety ? 
Ans.— 1. Yes. 2. Not less than four feet by two. The 
best variety, in The R. N.-Y.’s opinion, is any variety. 
Treated in the same way, the difference in so called varie¬ 
ties is at most trifling. We are trying all kinds and shall 
be able to report next season. 3. It has never done re¬ 
markably well at the Rural Grounds. 4. Yes, we think 
so. 5. White Plume is an excellent early kind. Golden 
Heartwell is good for later. Boston Market is a good 
dwarf for latest. 
