THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
365 
i89i 
The Farmers Club. 
ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
[Every query must be accompanied by the name and address 
of the writer to insure attention. Before asking a question, please 
see if it is not answered in our advertising columns. Ask only 
a few questions at one time. Put questions on a separate piece 
of paper.] 
CULTIVATING AFTER A RAIN. 
THE QUESTION. 
What is jour practice about cultivating crops after a 
rain ? Should a shallow cultivation follow as soon after 
rainfall as the soil will work ? Does this prevent rapid 
evaporation of the water and keep the soil moist ? What 
are jour rules for running the cultivator in wet weather ? 
The Soil Should Just Crumble. 
I think that the best time to cultivate a crop after a 
rain is just as scon as the soil will crumble nicely. I 
think that if cultivated at this time, the soil will keep 
moister than if cultivated later after the crust has formed. 
Nothing is gdined by hurrying matters and going into 
the ground before it will pulverize perfectly; on the con¬ 
trary, there will be a loss of fertility, for the horses will 
leave a clod at every step and these clods will not all 
be broken up by the cultivator teeth, aud consequently 
will be uselees to afford plant food. In web weather it 
is of no use at all to run the cultivator, if by “wet 
weather ” one means when people are supposed to work 
between showers. Then the cultivator will root up some 
weeds, but the next rain will plant them again. Neither 
man nor horse ought to bs allowed to go on a field for hoe¬ 
ing or cultivating when the soil is so moist that a hand¬ 
ful when squeezed will retain its shape and dry out a hard 
Clod. A. L. CROSBY. 
Baltimore Co., Md. 
The Philosophy of the Thing. 
We aim to break the crust as soon as the ground will 
permit after rains which are heavy enough to form a crust 
on the land. I believe the main benefit of harrowing wheat, 
oats, etc., in the spring of the year, consists simply in 
breaking the crust, thereby conserving moisture. Our ex¬ 
periments and observations prove most conclusively that 
fining and loosening the first inch or two of the surface 
soil prevents, in a great measure, loss of water by evapora¬ 
tion. This locsening of the soil causes the openings be¬ 
tween the particles of earth (capillary tubes) to be so large 
that the water cannot climb up them to the surface. Fre¬ 
quent shallow culture results in a more or less perfect 
mulch and shade for the land which contains the roots of 
the plants and the available moisture of the soil. The ideal 
conditions area fairly compact, finely pulverized seed bed 
for the roots, covered with an inch or two of very loose 
earth. If the rain packs this loose surface soil the capil¬ 
lary tubes become small enough so that the water can rise 
to the surface. A part of these statements can easily be 
proven during dry weather this summer. With a garden 
rake loosen and fine the surface of a portion of the ground 
for several days. Some evening make several tracks by 
walking over this ground and observe in the morning the 
dampness where the ground has been compacted. 
Cornell Exper’t Station, [director] I. p. Roberts. 
Depends Upon Several “ Ifs.” 
It depends upon how heavy the rain is. If a soaking 
rain, filling the soil with water, it should not be cultivated 
until the surplus water Is out of It. Not only should it 
not be “muddy,” but even a tolerably light soilshould not 
be damp enough to be easily pressed into coherent masses. 
The soil should, in short, be “ mellow ” before either team 
or tool is put into it. If the weather is continuously 
damp, and the weeds are getting the start, Breed’s weeder, 
with a light horse, can be used when the ground is too 
damp for any other tillage implement. I know how in¬ 
tensely provoking it is (having had lots of such experience 
in the past three seasons) to see the weeds grow, and the 
ground too wet to work for weeks at a time; and certainly 
Breed’s weeder is a double blessing where it can be run at 
such times. But what good can it do to drive a cultivator 
through the mud in our corn and potatoes ? It hurts the 
land, and does not help the crop. All we can do is to watch 
closely and avail ourselves of every chance. Often one 
field can be worked when another cannot. 
Orleans Co., Yt. t. h. iioskins. 
As a Jerseyman Looks at It. 
The mode of cultivating the different crops varies in 
different localities. I do not care to cultivate too soon 
after a rainfall, whatever may be ths plan of the cultiva¬ 
tion. In our locality there are soils of various kinds, some 
of which might be cultivated very soon after a rainfall, 
while in other cases to do so would prove a positive dam¬ 
age to the crop. Under any and all circumstances culti¬ 
vation as soon as possible after a rainfall would prove 
beneficial. Disturbing the surface of the soil would tend 
to prevent rapid evaporation and keep the soil moist and 
also prevent weed growth. The depth of cultivation I 
would determine according to the maturity of the crop. 
If in its earlier stages, I would cultivate deeper than later 
on. I would not work my crops when too wet, under any 
circumstances. D. c. lewis. 
Middlesex Co., N. J. 
Roots Must Have Air to Feed. 
I think that to secure the best results the surface of the 
ground should be stirred as soon after a rain as the con¬ 
dition of the soil will permit, all through the growing sea¬ 
son. I have no doubt that a shallow mulch of fine, dry 
earth retards evaporation, but I believe that is not its only 
good effect, and perhaps not its greatest. I think break¬ 
ing the crust formed on the ground after rain has fallen, 
admits the air more freely to the roots of plants, and that 
the presence of air is necessary to enable plants to feed. 
This is a point on which I have seen very little written, 
but my observation has led me to form such an opinion. 
If my time were not so entirely taken up with necessary 
farm work, I would like to try an experiment to test the 
truth of the generally ac cepted statement that plant roots— 
especially clover—feed at a great depth in the soil. I have 
never been able to see any benefit from manure when 
buried over 12 or 15 inches in ordinary soil. I know plant 
roots go much deeper, but I have never seen that the plants 
grew better from having manure placed at a greater than 
the above depth beneath them. The feeding rootlets can 
be seen occupying the soil very fully just at the upper 
part of the moisture, or, as it might be expressed, be¬ 
tween wind and water. 
Let any one place a smooth, flat stone so that its under 
faco will be about one inch below the surface in a field of 
growing beets, turnips or squashes, and keep it there un¬ 
disturbed until the plants are in full growth, then remove 
it carefully and it will readily be seen how completely the 
feeding roots occupy the soil near the surface. I imagine 
the roots, which go deep, go for water, but do not feed at 
a great depth. My conclusions may not be correct, and 
even if they could be proved to be correct, would perhaps 
have little practical value, but it is sometimes a satisfac¬ 
tion to prove a fact, even if there is not a cent in it. 
Norfolk Co., Mass. monroe morse. 
ABOUT A MARYLAND ROTATION. 
A. M. S., Talbot County, Md. —How would this rotation 
answer on 94 acres of essentially wheat laud which still 
grows good clover, when the object is to save fencing and 
grow manures? Permanent pasture, 22 acres; 18 acres 
wheat on clover turned under in August; 18 acres wheat 
following corn ; 18 acres corn on Crimson Clover sowed in 
August and plowed the following April, and t8 acres of 
clover for hay. 
Can’t Beat It. 
Capital. I practice the same with success. 
Talbot Co., Md. wm. COLLINS. 
Another Rotation Suggested ; Is It Better ? 
I have had no experience with Crimson Clover, but sup¬ 
posing it to make a good growth to be plowed under by 
April, I would sow cow peas in place of it, aud turn them 
under for wheat in the fall, and I think it is rather risky 
to keep one-half of the cultivated ground in wheat and to 
have half of the crop follow corn, which is a heavy feeder. 
Twenty two acres of permanent pasture may do, provided 
it can be made “permanent;” it is a question with me if 
it can. 
I should prefer this rotation : 18 acres of wheaton clover, 
18 acres of corn on clover, 18 acres of cow peas and 18 acres 
of clover for hay. The next year the wheat should go on 
cow peas and the corn on clover; the following year the 
cow pt-as should be plowed under and be followed by rye 
in the fall, which would be turned under in the spring in 
time for corn. This would give two green manure crops 
for the corn and putting the same field in cow peas the 
next year would fit the ground for wheat. 
Under which rotation would the fertility of the farm be 
best kept up, and would my rotation give enough larger 
yields per acre of wheat and corn to make up for the loss 
of 18 acres of wheat which A. M. S. would have under his 
rotation ? We must also take into consideration the 
greater safety (certainty ?) of my rotation, the better pre¬ 
paration of the soil for wheat (there being only 18 acres 
instead of 30, and a 94-acre farm won’t afford teams 
enough to put 36 acres in perfect order unless the plowing 
and working season is favorable) and the better prospect 
for continued good crops of clover. A. L. crosby. 
How This Rotation Will Work Out. 
The object is, as the inquirer says, to “ save fencing and 
grow manures,” by which I understand he wishes to in¬ 
crease the fertility of his soil at the least possible cost. 
He does not tell us what use he makes of those 18 acres of 
clover hay—whether it is sold or fed out on the farm. If 
sold, he is robbing his land of $300 to $400 worth of fertility 
every year. If fed to his stock, all right. Another thing 
is not quite clear: what crop grew on the field he sowed to 
Crimson Clover in August? If the crop was wheat, (which I 
assume) would not the results have been more satisfactory, 
had he sowed common Red Clover in March, and had the 
whole season’s growth of stalk and root? It appears he has 
four 18 acre fields under cultivation. The permanent pas¬ 
ture we may leave out of the count, and assume that two 
of those 18 acre fields are now in wheat, seeded with clover; 
and two now in clover—of last year’s seeding. For conven¬ 
ience I will number these fields as follows: wheat on fal¬ 
low No. 1; wheat after corn No. 2; field to be plowed for 
corn No. 3, and field to be mowed for hay No. 4. Then I 
would suggest the following plan for four years. 
Years. Wheat. Wheat. Corn. Clover 
1 . 12 8 4 
It will be observed from the above figures that each field 
during the four years has produced one crop of hay, one 
crop of corn, and two crops of wheat. Now, if 200 to 400 
pounds of high-grade fertilizer have been applied to the 
wheat each year, and the hay and other fodder are put 
upon the corn field each year In the form of manure, any¬ 
one of those four fields ought to produce 25 to 30 bushels 
of wheat, or 100 bushels of shelled corn per acre in the 
fifth year, the treatment being the same. I don’t know 
how our scientific men would figure this out. I only know 
the truth of my theory from a little experience and ob¬ 
servation, and the testing of successful farmers. In the 
old slave times, a spear of clover was as scarce in Talbot 
County as “hen’s teeth,” and eight to ten bushels of wheat 
to the acre was a good crop. Since farmers have seeded 
clover largely, the wheat yield has doubled, and 25 to 30 
bushels per acre is no uncommon yield in a favorable sea¬ 
son. The more clover, the more wheat and corn. 
H. S. HALL. 
Fruits for Northern Illinois. 
J. A. S., Freeport, 111 —What half a dozen kinds of 
grapes, apples, plums, cherries, strawberries, black¬ 
berries, gooseberries, etc. .would be advisable for me to start 
with in this climate, 100 miles west of Chicago ? I would 
like some early and some late in regular succession. What 
Is the best place to get them ? 
Ans.— Grapes, Concord, Ives, Delaware, Brighton, Mar¬ 
tha : Apples, American Summer, Fall Wine, Fameuse, Ben 
Davis, Oldenburg, Wine Sap: Plums, Bradshaw, Coe’s 
Late Red, Cce’s Golden Drop, Green Gage, Smith’s Or¬ 
leans, Washington : Cherries, Early Richmond, Morello, 
Black Tartarian, Napoleon: Strawberries, Wilson, Hav- 
erland, Charles Downing, Kentucky, Sharpless, Jetsie: 
Blackberries, Ktttatiuny, Lawton, Snyder, Wilson’s Early: 
Gooseberries, Houghton. They can be obtained of the 
Phoenix Nursery Company, Bloomington, Ill., or of any of 
the nurserymen who advertise in The Rural. 
Treatment of an Orchard. 
C. II. D. M., St. Augustine, Md. —Would it be advisable 
to plow a 10-year-old pear orchard that has been set in 
grass for two or three years, and when should it be done ? 
What is the best way of treating an apple orchard of 
the same age ? 
Ans. —We believe that trees should be kept in a thrifty 
condition; unless they are vigorous they are liable to be 
attacked with diseases and insects, and will not produce 
clean, handsome fruit. It sometimes happens that trees 
are too vigorous, in which case the sod can be allowed to 
form upon the surface and thus diminish the extraordi¬ 
nary growth. Ordinary soils are not rich enough, and 
orchardists are obliged to apply manure nearly every year 
and to keep the ground thoroughly cultivated in order to 
maintain a satisfactory growth. Our experience is that 
orchards should be thoroughly cultivated and manured 
every year ; the labor and expense attending this method 
of cultivation are repaid by the fine fruit which can thus 
be obtained. In answer to the above question, we should 
break up the sod in the spring by plowing three or four 
inches deep, taking care not to get too near the trees so as 
to mutilate the young roots which spread near the surface. 
We think it advisable not to allow trees to grow in grass, 
and recommend thorough cultivation. 
ELLWANGEB & BARRY. 
MISCELLANEOUS. 
Russian Mulberry as a Hedge—A. M. A., Point Breeze, 
N. Y.—No, we should say that the Russian Mulberry 
would not make a good hedge. We do not see that there 
Is anything about it that peculiarly fits it for such a 
purpose. 
Sorghum,.— F. E II„ Adrian, Mich.—To raise sorghum, 
fit the land as for corn. Drill in the seed or sow thickly 
in drills or hills and thin out at the first hoeing, so as to 
leave the plants at the proper distance apart—this de¬ 
pending upon the variety. It will not pay individual 
farmers to manufacture their own sugar from sorghum, the 
cost of the machinery, etc., being too great. 
A Failing Peach Orchard — L. B , W. Ya.—The fact 
that in a peach orchard, the fruit of which was once cele¬ 
brated, the fruit is now so small as to be worthless, may 
be due to the incipient stage of yellows, but is more prob¬ 
ably due to the exhaustion of one or more constituents of 
the soil necessary to the perfecting of the fruit—very 
probably potash. Such being the case, such lack can cer¬ 
tainly be determined only by actual trial with special fer¬ 
tilizers. Failing in this, the next plan would be abandon¬ 
ing the orchard and planting a new one elsewhere. 
Tobacco Stems.—H. W. A., Naples, N. Y.—These stems 
contain about $13 worth of fertilizing matters—mostly 
potash—per ton. They are useful around melon and other 
vines to keep away insects. When used for manure, they 
may be spread and plowed into the ground or composted 
with manure or muck. 
Tan Dark Ashes —S. M. B., Timbervllle, Va.—The pot¬ 
ash and phosphoric acid in a ton of ashes from burning 
spent tan bark are worth about $6. “ The tannery ashes, 
when wet, are worth $1 per ton, and hauling three miles 
over a rough road,” and more too. 
Water Cress and Egg Plant Culture — R. S. B , St. 
Lawrence County, N. Y.—Watercress requires very little 
cultivation. It grows along the margins of running 
streams. All that is necessary is to sow the seed along 
running streams, and it will take care of itself. Once es¬ 
tablished, it will propagate and spread both from the 
roots and from seeds. Many seedsmen are offering an 
upland cress which they claim equals the water cress in 
quality and which may be grown on upland. Egg plants 
are cultivated much like tomatoes. The plants should be 
started in hot-beds or greenhouses and transplanted, 
about June 1, to warm, rich soil, about 2>£ feet apart. The 
Colorado beetles are very fond of both the plants and the 
fruits. Egg plants are rather more difficult of cultivation 
than tomatoes. 
Fish Heads For Fertilizer—A. N. A., Point Breeze, N. 
Y-We should smash the large fish heads up with a sledge 
or other implement and either mix them with the manure 
or compost them with muck, using plenty of plaster. If 
fine enough to handle properly and needed for immediate 
use, they can be spread on sod ground to be plowed for 
corn. 
Beans and Bones— J. H. H., Hinton, W. Va.—The 
level field of sandy loam will make excellent bean ground. 
The large white or Marrow and Pea Beans are good vari¬ 
eties. If you use fertilizer you had better get a “ com¬ 
plete manure;” that is, one containing all three of the chief 
elements of fertility, and apply it broadcast and harrow 
in. The ton of bones from the butcher’s shop can be mixed 
with wood ashes or potash and kept wet, or burned in piles 
of wood. The ashes resulting from the fire will be excel¬ 
lent for fruit trees. 
