Women Make the 
Woman And The 
V ERY youthful, very pretty and piquant, and, one 
would say, not very intellectual is the pictured face 
of the late winner of the $300 Cobden prize at Victoria 
University, Miss Vlctorine Jeans. She is another instance 
of “ the first of her sex,” her subject being “ The Indus¬ 
trial and Commercial Effects, Actual and Prospective, of 
English Factory Act Legislation.” Only once in three 
years does a woman have a chance to win a money prize, 
it is said, as the prize is offered at Oxford, Cambridge and 
Victoria in rotation, and the first two do not admit their 
girl students to this competition. 
* * * 
A NEW wave of dress reform has just gone over the land. 
Most of the women writers for the great dailies unite in 
writing it down, in insisting that it can never amount to 
anything, that it is already a question of the past, a fad 
of a certain class, etc. Yet the question of dress reform 
comes serenely to the surface as fresh as ever, and per¬ 
haps more forcibly. 
Chautauqua took hold of it; Miss Willard is in it, and a 
society has been formed with some 300 members, with Mrs. 
Frank Parker, of Chicago, as President. The young ladies 
have been interested in it; if they take it up, its success 
is thought to be assured. Four garments form the new 
schedule of apparel: tights and undervest, combination 
suit and dress. Beauty is to be one of the watchwords of 
the new crusade; a study of the human form and of artis¬ 
tic canons one of its main foundations. 
Apropos of this debated topic, some one says: “ The 
strong-minded woman who is sincerely anxious for the re¬ 
form of her sex has a hard lot, for it is woman herself 
who always handicaps her.” Must we admit this ? Can 
we deny it f * * * 
A special to the Tribune when the new movement first 
began to take shape gave a comprehensive view of its ob¬ 
ject and aims, saying that it will be concerted and com¬ 
prehensive, and will embrace all the schools, from the 
most conservative to the most radical. The crusade against 
the prevailing fashions that was begun at Chautauqua 
recently was the first Intimation of what was coming, 
but the secret has leaked out, and it shows that 
the women reformers are on the war path, and really 
mean business. The great trouble up to the present time 
with the ladles has been to get a leader, a sort of Martin 
Luther as it were, who could precipitate a great reforma¬ 
tion. This leader has just been found in the person of Mrs. 
Frank Stuart Parker, of Chicago, who so bravely nailed 
her dress-reform thesis against the gates of Chautauqua. 
On May 30, 1891, the general officers of the National Coun¬ 
cil of Women held a very Important meeting in Indiana¬ 
polis, Ind., and passed a secret resolution that a crusade 
would be waged as soon as possible against the prevailing 
style of dress among women. This was to be the first of 
a series of proclamations emancipating women from skirts, 
garters, corsets, high heels, high collars—in fact, from 
everything that handicaps the sex in competing with men. 
^The ladles say that the slavery of skirts must be abol¬ 
ished, and hence they have selected as a Central Com¬ 
mittee the following prominent women: Mrs. Frank 
Stuart Parker, Mrs. Frances E Russell, Anne Jenness-Mtl- 
ler, Elizabeth Stuart Phelps Ward, Anna C. Brackett, Dr. 
Mary Putnam Jacobi, Miss Grace Dodge and Margaret 
Sangster. Chautauqua seems to have been hit upon as 
the place to precipitate the movement. The new crusade 
is very sweeping and will cut a broad swath in the domain 
of dress now solely inhabited by man, and the curious 
thing about it all is that Miss Frances Willard has wheeled 
the whole National Temperance Union into line in sup¬ 
port of the movement. In her very bright address at Chau¬ 
tauqua, entitled “A White Life for Two,” she made 
some very striking and suggestive remarks. “ When we 
heard what Mrs. Parker had been saying to the Chautau¬ 
qua ladies about dress reform, we gave three cheers for 
her,”, said the great temperance apostle, and then she fol- 
owed this up by some startling statements. “ This death 
line,” said she, drawing in the air with her finger the out¬ 
line of a woman’s waist squeezed into the shape of a sand- 
hour-glass, “ this line has filled more graves than whisky.” 
The reformers will endeavor by photographs, statues and 
lectures from prominent artists to change the present ideal 
of proportion in the human figure. 
A SUMMER LUNCHEON, 
wish the bevy of women who sat on the hotel piazza 
last evening, and glibly recounted their experience of 
country “ summer boarders,” could have attended a dainty 
luncheon recently given by Mrs. A, a prosperous farmer’s 
wife, to eight of her city friends. 
No doubt some of them could show a more elegant 
dining room, and make a more lavish display of silver and 
cut glass, but I question if one among them could show 
a more attractive room, a more tasteful arrangement of 
snowy napery, brightly polished silver and shining glass 
ware, or viands more perfectly cooked and served; and I 
am sure no hostess could have been more graceful and 
charming, and no French maid could have served us more 
perfectly than did the two young daughters of the 
hostess. 
There was nothing elaborate, and little that was novel 
about this particular luncheon. The dining room was 
simply and effectively decorated with ferns and nas¬ 
turtiums. The fire-place, mantel and low window 
shelf at one end of the room were covered with the 
graceful greenery and peculiar blossom with its pungent. 
appetizing aroma. A lamp suspended over the cen¬ 
ter of the table was hid in garlands of the same, and a 
large, glass bowl filled with water clear as crystal, held a 
loose, graceful mass of the delicate green and the yellow 
blossoms. 
No color except yellow and green was seen in the napery 
and these only in the doylies, the cloth and napkins being 
of white satin -linen ornamented with a hem-stitched hem, 
two rows of drawn work above and an initial embroidered 
in white. The mepu cards were of pebbled surface, white 
drawing paper with four small holes made at regular in¬ 
tervals across the top, through which was laced narrow 
yellow ribbon tied at the center in a bow with short ends. 
A tiny rural scene or landscape with an apt quotation was 
sketched with India ink. Sometimes the quotation was 
above, sometimes below the scene and again straggling 
diagonally across, but always in quaint letters. The menu 
was on the back. 
The plates, cups and saucers were of white china, with gilt 
bands; the two decanters (which stood at the corners diago¬ 
nally across from each other and held iced drinking water) 
and the bowls and plates which held olives and radishes— 
covered with cracked ice—salted almonds and bonbons, 
were of clear glass; while the other dishes were of odd, 
decorated china, colored glass and silver. 
The menu is given, but merely as a suggestion, for any 
woman of ingenuity can easily devise one adapted to the 
requirements of her case and the locality in which she 
lives: 
Clam Broth. 
Lobster Chops. Dressed Cucumbers. 
Broiled Chicken. 
Potato Puff. Creamed Corn. 
Mayonnaise of Tomatoes. 
Wafers. 
Peach Ice Cream. Angels’ food, 
Coffee. Iced Tea. 
Clam Broth.— Take a dozen large clams in the shell 
and scrub them thoroughly with a brush before placing 
them in a kettle with a pint of cold water. As soon as the 
shells have opened, remove them and allow the broth to 
settle. Strain if necessary, reheat and season with a little 
Cayenne pepper. Serve hot in cups, placing a heaping tea¬ 
spoonful of whipped cream on the top of each. Split some 
Boston crackers, toast the broken surface, then spread 
with butter, heat a few minutes in the oven and serve with 
the broth. 
Lobsteb Chops.— Canned lobster makes fully as deli¬ 
cious cutlets as that cooked at home, and is easier to pre¬ 
pare. To a pint of meat add half a teaspoonful of salt, the 
same of mustard, half a saltspoou of Cayenne and a table¬ 
spoonful of chopped parsley. Put half a pint of milk on 
to boil. Rub together one large tablespoonful of butter 
and two of flour, stir into the milk when it boils, and 
cook smooth. Then add the slightly-beaten yolks of two 
eggs and the meat, stir thoroughly and turn out to cool. 
When cold form Into chops about the size and shape of 
mutton chop (Frenched), dip first in beaten egg, then in 
bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. When done drain on 
brown paper and lay upon a warm dish. 
Dressed Cucumbers. —Peel the cucumbers and lay them 
in cold, salted water. Just before they are needed slice 
very thin and cover with a dressing made of two table¬ 
spoonfuls of oil, one of vinegar, a saltspoonful of salt 
and half a one of white pepper. Cucumbers are always 
served alone with fish, but if no sour sauce is served, plain 
potatoes should be placed upon the table. 
Broiled Chicken. —Every cook knows how to nicely 
broil a chicken. It may be cut in pieces and a sauce turned 
about it, or the sauce may be served from a sauce boat, 
and the hostess may carve the chicken at the table. 
Potato Puff.— Add two tablespoonfuls of soft butter 
to two teacupfuls of salted, peppered and finely mashed 
potato, and beat to a white cream. Beat the yolks of two 
eggs very light, and stir in the potato, adding a teacup¬ 
ful of sweet milk. When thoroughly mixed add the beaten 
whites of the eggs, stir lightly, pile upon a hot, buttered 
dish and bake 10 minutes. 
Tomato Mayonnaise. —Peel the tomatoes, cut a slice 
from the stem ends and carefully remove the seeds. Chop 
fine a solid cucumber, and a small onion ; season with a 
little cut water cress and fill this mixture into the tomatoes. 
Select the white inner parts of lettuce, wipe clean, fold in 
a wet napkin and place near the ice. When nearly ready 
to serve arrange the lettuce in groups of two or three 
leaves to form a cup; place a tomato in the center, and 
cover the top with mayonnaise dressing. Each group may 
be placed upon a separate plate,, or all may be clustered 
together upon a platter. 
Peach Ice Cream. —Heat one pint of cream to the boil¬ 
ing point and add half of three-fourths of a pound of 
sugar, stir well and set aside to cool. Add the rest of the 
sugar to one pint of grated ripe peaches, add this to the 
cream and freeze. When the mixture is half lrozen add 
another pint of cream, vigorously whipped, stir in thor¬ 
oughly and finish freezing. 
Men are seldom invited to a luncheon unless it Is a very 
ceremonious one; custom, ana the hour at which it is usu¬ 
ally held (four o’clock) making it distinctively a woman’s 
feast. For this reason lighter foods and a briefer menu are 
provided, while the hostess gives especial attention to the 
faultless arrangement of the table appointments, sure that 
they will be seen and appreciated. And it has become one 
of the most charming hospitalities. 
KATHERINE B. JOHNSON. 
Homes Make the 
Home. 
Our Economy Column. 
H OUSEHOLD economy in its completest sense can 
not be fully learned from the current literature 
upon the subject. Aside from the foreign modes and 
phrases unfamiliar to most farmers’ wives, there are many 
excellent suggestions which are of benefit to us ; but from 
the abundance of the contradictions, who can formulate a 
satisfactory curriculum for every woman’s use ? 
The model housewife, who must have a three-decker 
brain, saves her dishes by not letting them be set in the 
oven or upon the hot stove, and by caution In handling ; 
her knife and fork handles by not patting them into hot 
water; her clothes by not letting them “ whip ” in the wind 
while drying. 
A little chopping and mixing of food relishes will do ; 
but few farmers’ wives have time for so much fussing as 
the book recipes require. We like trimming and fancy 
work, but it must be limited in most farm homes, and the 
time a woman spends in Inventing and making something 
to decorate with a ribbon bow, could be better used. Per¬ 
haps it has not occurred to many a woman that the world 
is full of needy and degraded creatures who have demands 
—I repeat—demands upon our better condition to minister 
unto them. What better economy than time saved for 
this better work? I believe in any legitimate means of 
earning or saving a penny, but by no means will we be 
blessed if any human creature is made more wretched or 
destitute by our added hoard. I believe in paying the 
stipulated “ tribute to Csesar ” (interest money) but hunger 
and destitution hold “ first mortgage.” 
I believe in saving health, strength and good nature by 
suitable rest and recreation. We are going through this 
world but once, and if we let an unpaid mortgage rob us 
of sustenance, rest and heart tenderness in this world, we 
shall certainly find no treasures laid up in the world to 
come, for all our pains. M. A. P. 
« * * 
I PREPARE part of the flour for biscuit, etc., by putting 
with the flour soda and cream-of tartar in the same pro¬ 
portions as for one quart of flour and sifting it twice. 
Put in a tightly covered pall, It is ready for use at a mo¬ 
ment’s notice, needing only shortening and wetting. Pie¬ 
crust flour may also be prepared by sifting flour, a little 
soda and salt. The shortening is rubbed into the flour 
after sifting. Covered, as before, it is ready for use except 
for the wetting. I prefer wetting the crust with boiling 
water, as there is no sticking to the rolling-pin or pie- 
board, and it removes the taste of lard and saves time, as 
every roll of the pin shapes the crust and it remains so. 
One and one-half teacupful of pie-crust flour is enough for 
a medium-sized pie with two crusts. 
In highly-spiced cake one can use sausage fat for short¬ 
ening, and no one will know it from butter. Fat from 
poultry is a grand substitute for butter when new and free 
from seasoning. 
Stale cake cut into strips or small cubes and placed in 
the cake mixture at random as one is putting it in the 
baking tin, will become like new by the action of heat and 
moisture in baking, and it will be a wonder to those un¬ 
acquainted with the process to see in the slices those per¬ 
fect squares. Dark stile cake in a light-colored cake mixt¬ 
ure, or vice versa , gives the best result as to looks. 
Potatoes left over, if enough for a meal and still in their 
jackets, can be made as good as new by dropping them in 
boiling water in which is a tablespoonful of salt, and boil¬ 
ing for five minutes. Pour off the water and place for a 
few minutes on the back of the stove to dry off. If peeled 
drop them in water as above, and when dried off mash 
with a potato masher till light, adding butter, pepper, etc. 
In boiling meat for a vegetable dinner it is a good plan 
to nearly cook the meat the day before, so as to remove 
the surplus fat before it is tainted with the scent of the 
vegetables. It saves time, as the fat needs no clarifying, 
only heating to remove what water there may be in it, to 
fit it for future use. 
All fat that has any rancid taste from age or other¬ 
wise can be made sweet by heating and frying it in raw 
potatoes sliced thin. Cook till the potato is brown and 
hard. Butter can be made useful for cooking purposes 
by the above process if it is past using on the table on ac¬ 
count of the taste of the firkin or for other reasons. 
* * * mbs. o. j. p. 
I consider that keeping the best hired girl that fair 
wages and kind treatment will procure is the chief of 
my many economies. The money thus invested yields me 
a better rate of interest, in health, immunity from doctors’ 
bills and freedom from the nerve destroying routine of 
housework in a large family than twice or thrice the same 
amount would do if placed to my credit In a savings bank 
This, in my opinion is the best and only way to save the 
friction, both physical and mental, which brings the 
wives of so many farmers, at last to the insane asylum. 
This is the kind of domestic economy of most vital import- 
tance, not only to ourselves but to future generations, em¬ 
bodied in those little lives dependent upon us. 
* * * MRS. E. S. D. 
In the matter of meat you can make a very good meal 
from the less expensive cuts. Cook it tender, chop it fine, 
season it to taste and put it under a press. When cold 
slice it for the table. The water in which it was cooked 
will make a good soup with the addition of a few chopped 
potatoes, turnip, onion and a little grated carrot. It is 
economy to buy some things at wholesale—as sugar, soap, 
