Women Make the 
Woman And The Home. 
Homes Make the 
Nation. 
T he CHRISTIAN UNION tersely voices a feeling 
which has not hitherto found such happy expres¬ 
sion, but which nearly every woman can subscribe to, when 
it says that it is as disagreeable to be marked for hygienic 
convictions as for loudness or lack of harmony in the gar¬ 
ments worn. This is the serious obstruction In the way of 
dress reform. • * * * 
The same paper says that “ it takes brains for a woman 
to adopt a system of dressing that will leave her free from 
remark or comment and vet give her freedom of muscles 
and mind. But it is worth the expenditure of gray 
matter.” 
We are of the opinion that far more gray material will 
need to be expended in adapting than in adopting such a 
system, and we half suspect that this is what our confrere 
meant to say, and that some compositor with a lack of 
‘‘gray matter” put in some bungling work just there. 
* * * 
Dish washing machines are not altogether a new thing, 
large ones run by electricity being used in some large public 
establishments; but lately two machines have come to the 
fore that have special reference to the needs of the home 
dish-washer. Time will no doubt be gained by their use, 
but that they lack much of being satisfactory will be seen 
from the fact that they depend on the agitation only of 
very hot water, to cleanse the soiled ware. One is the in¬ 
vention of a farmer’s wife, which we should much like to see 
in successful operation and making successful sales; the 
other is being put out by a progressive Arm in the Middle- 
west. _ 
HELP FOR HOME DRESSMAKERS. 
BELL SKIRTS, PROFESSIONAL FINISHING, ETC. 
EVER was the home dressmaker’s task so difficult 
as now, for never were so much skill and artistic 
taste shown in the work and never was success as depend¬ 
ent upon the minor details which the untaught home dress¬ 
maker seldom fully appreciates. 
To facilitate her efforts and to point out some of the 
most common causes of failure is the aim of this article, 
though I can scarcely do more than offer suggestions. 
One of the most common causes of dissatisfaction or 
failure with those who have a fair knowledge of cutting 
and fitting, consists in using cheap materials for linings 
and in cutting the waist lining lengthwise, instead of 
crosswise, as it should always be. Others are in choosing 
too elaborate patterns; in not matching plaids, stripes and 
pronounced figures, and in not cutting the different sec¬ 
tions of a waist on a correct line of the goods, especially 
the side backs. 
The skirt of a dress should be made first that the basque 
may be fitted over it. The lour-gored or habit skirt that 
has met with such general favor during the past year has 
lost nothing in popularity forstrettand out-door costumes 
by the introduction of the different varieties of skirt to 
which is given the general appellation of “ the bell skirt,” 
though it is said the latter will be more generally favored 
for indoor fabrics the coming autumn an i winter than 
they were during the summer. 
French cambric or light-weight silesia are the fabrics 
oftenest used for skirt foundations, and they should be as 
nearly like the outside in color as possible, for with the 
long drapings now in vogue only a narrow facing of the 
dress fabric is applied. Be careful in cutting to have the 
pattern laid on the goods according to the perforations. 
If the outside fabric is not transparent a neater finish is 
given by sewing the seams of the foundation skirt on the 
right side, next the drapery. 
If there is to be a very narrow facing of the dress goods 
on the bottom of the foundation skirt, it may be fitted to 
the skirt after the seams are sewed and pressed, but one 
more than four inches wide should be cut by the pattern 
and stitched separately, all but one seam. To prevent a 
skirt from clinging about the ankles a facing of linen can¬ 
vas should be added at the bottom, and this may be cut 
narrow and bias, or crosswise by the pattern. An under- 
facing of the goods or of alpaca, serge or other worsted 
goods should be applied over the lower part or the entire 
depth of the canvas, to give a nice finish to the skirt and . 
to protect the shoes. After these different parts are stitched 
or hemmed at the top and firmly basted at the bottom, 
two very narrow, three-inch-deep V openings should be cut 
in the bottom of the front gore —one each side of the 
center at about one-third of the distance from the center 
to the side front seam—and bound like the bottom of the 
skirt. Velveteen binding which comes ready at 17 cents 
a roll, makes a much neater finish than braid, and is not so 
rough on shoes. 
A belt should be made of a lengthwise strip of silesia 
faced on the outside with the dress fabric, and the best 
way of attaching it to the skirt is to sew the under edge 
of the belt on without turning tne top of the skirt down, 
then after the drapery has been attached stitch or fell down 
the front edges. 
Those who are in a position to know, prophesy that the 
sheath like drapery now so popular will continue in vogue 
the coming winter, despite ail efforts to revive bunched- 
up effects. Drapery with straight or slightly-rounded 
edges should be hemmed, but when much rounded or 
hollowed it must be faced. On fabrics that will not fray 
easily the upper edge of the hem should not be turned 
uncer, but cat-stitched down, as by this means no ridges ap¬ 
pear after pressing. The placket hole of the foundation 
skirt and that of the drapery should never be made over 
each other. The former is best at the center of the back, 
and the latter well under some plait. Four-inch-long 
“hangers” should be sowed flatly, parallel with the belt, 
just in front of the side back seam. To prevent a skirt 
from sagging a large hook should be sewed to the middle 
of the belt at the back, and the eye to the middle of the 
basque belt or back seam at the waist line; by this means 
the two garments are hooked together. 
A “ bell skirt” may have five, six or eight gores, or it 
may be circular with only one seam at the center of the 
back. It may have fine gathers, or small pleats at the 
waistline, or its fullness may arise from the gores, or from 
the flare produced by the bias edges; but all alike fit 
closely about the hips, hang outward at the front and 
sides, and have a curving sweep at the back. It is not es¬ 
sential that a bell skirt be hung over a foundation skirt, 
but it must be lined with crinoline, lawn or other light¬ 
weight material that will hold It in place and afford some¬ 
thing on which the facings, pleatings or lace can be at¬ 
tached. 
But one thing is positively essential to its beauty and 
grace, namely, a foundation skirt to be worn under, that 
has scant pleatings, lace'or other style of flounces to provide 
fullness to support the bottom of the drtss as it curves. 
In facing bell skirts proceed as with other styles, and 
when a train is made have the facing deeper at the back to 
correspond with the curve, making the facing an even dis¬ 
tance from the belt all around. Some sort of a skirt pro¬ 
tector is positively essential and there are various ones at 
the shops. These extend across the train only and are 
made of buckram, rubber cloth, silesia, serge and the like, 
and come in gray, brown and black. 
In deciding upon a bodice pattern be carf ul not to choose 
an elaborate one. There is a great difference in goods 
about draping, and sometimes even a professional would 
find it difficult to produce the graceful curves illustrated. 
Having decided wisely on a pattern, take your measure¬ 
ments carefully, that you may have no difficulty in fitting. 
Get two and one-fourth yards of fine, firm silesia for waist 
and sleeve linings. Fold it at the center cross wise, and 
pin the two selvages of one side together to prevent their 
slipping and causing the two parts to be unlike. A red or 
b.ue pencil is preferable to chalk for marking, and if you 
are using a new pattern, or are not accustomed to fitting, 
you had better baste it along each line of perforations, for 
in basting and fitting the lining before the outside is cut, 
the pencil marks may become erased or indistinct. Of 
course the markings should be on the inside of the linings 
to guide the worker In basting. Never b- economical in 
the use of basting thread; the professional knows that its 
use goes far to insure success. 
The slightly developed figure should usually be nicely 
fitted with straight closing-edges, but one with full devel¬ 
opment will need the hollow curved edges. A long and a 
short stitch is the best form of basting, but do it firmly. 
If hollow-shouldered, stretch the front portion tight, and 
hold it towards you in basting. 
In fitting, wrinkles over the hip may be removed by 
stretching the lower edge of the lining; or if this does not 
remedy it, rip the back dart and the under arm seam, and 
diaw down the front until it fits smoothly. Again, the 
wrinkles may be rubbed together at the waist line, and 
pinned down in a pleat, and fullness at the front of the 
arm’s eye, and at the neck may be taken out in the same 
way; if hemmed down neatly they will never be discerned 
through any but the finest fabrics, in which case new sec¬ 
tions will have to be cut after the fitted ones. When a 
lining has been satisfactorily fitted, trim all the edges 
evenly before removing the basting threads, and re-mark 
the seams, if necessary. If the notches that were cut after 
the pattern do not meet now, cut new ones that no mistakes 
be made in basting the second time. 
If the outside fabric be striped, plaided or large fig¬ 
ured, be careful to match the design accurately at the 
center of the back and front and as nearly as possible at 
the side backs. In stitching the side back or other seams 
where one part is fulled on to another, put the full part 
below or next to the feed. 
Stitch all seams but the shoulder and under arm ones, 
after trying it on to be sure it fits. These should be left 
until after the permanent closing is made at the center of 
the front. If this is made with buttons and button holes, 
remember that the latter will either add to or detract 
from the looks of your waist, and if you are not sure of 
being able to make them well, you had better hire it done, 
if possible. With vests or draped waists hooks and eyes 
are the usual means of fastening. When it is possible, 
alternate these as you sew them on—first a hook, then an 
eye _and you will not be annoyed with their unfastening. 
Eyes are much stronger than loops, and can be rendered 
Inconspicuous by covering them with button-hole stitch¬ 
ing done with twist. When the fastening is complete, try 
the waist on to be sure that no alteration is necessary, be¬ 
fore the collar and sleeves are added. 
A common standing collar should have a bias inter-lin¬ 
ing of canvas, and this should be dampened and stretched 
at the bottom edge before cutting the outside. The latter 
should have an inch-wide seam at the center of the back, 
and be cut a seam wider than the canvas all around. Turn 
this width over on the canvas and cross-stitch it down all 
around; then face a lining to the top and ends, leaving the 
bottom free. 
Turn all the edges of the seams evenly, and turning 
under the edges of both outside and lining at each side 
of the seams, overhand or blind-stitch them together. At 
the waist line of the darts and other deep, curved seams 
cut V shaped notches and finish them the same as the 
seams, that they may open flatly when pressed. 
The bones or stays should be added to a basque before 
it is faced at the bottom. If the former are used they 
should be covered with a bias piece of the lining, but steel 
stays can be had covered ready to be applied. They can be 
fastened by a few stitches here and there, but the neatest 
finish is by cross-stitching them with silk through the 
opposite edges. They should reach to within a third of an 
inch of the bottom, within half an inch of the top of the 
darts, within two inches of the arm’s eye, and to the top of 
the corset at the center back seam. In sewing them in 
hold the seams loosely near the top and bottom but along 
the curve of the waist line draw the seams tightly. If a 
skirt is not to be added to the basque turn it up a third of 
an inch, and crofs stitch to position, being careful not to 
stitch through the outside. Fit a facing to the wrong side, 
hem it to the lower edge and cross-stitch it down at the 
top without turning the edge under—if it is a fabric that 
will not fray. If a skirt is to be added follow the direc¬ 
tions carefully, basting and trying it on before sewing. 
Place the outside of the collar on the neck of the bodice 
on the outside, blind-stitch to position, (after trying on) 
and fell the lining down over the inside edges. Baste in 
the sleeves according to directions: try on, and when 
ready to stitch baste a bias strip of lining next to the 
lining, and after the sleeves are stitched in turn it inside 
and hem down to the seam. 
Sew a belt of webbing, or a lengthwise strip of the lining 
to the under-arm and center back seams at the waist line; 
a loop made ot ribbon or tape to the under part of the 
arm’s eye, and sleeve protectors to the sleeve seams, arm’s 
eye and under arm seams. KATHERINE B. JOHNSON. 
Our Economy Column. 
1 HAVE arranged my pantry so that while working at 
the broad shelf I can reach materials or tools without 
taking one unnecessary step. When baking I use as few 
dishes as possible. One cup measures flour, sugar, butter 
and milk in the order mentioned. My recipes are all for 
measure, not weight. I use p iper on the fl ior when churn¬ 
ing, broiling meat, or trying out lard, and on the table 
when dressing fowls or similar work ; also to clean stoves 
before blacking. I have found a hook put up here or a 
nail driven there helpful. The table in the dining room 
is kept set. 
On ironing days, I bake or boil meat enough for several 
meals. Our family is very partial to the cold meats. Fami¬ 
lies might be educated more in this line, and so save the 
wives and mothers many an hour of work. The meats 
nicely sliced and garnished will not be tiresome if they 
are served with a change of vegetables at each meal. It is 
quite a welcome saving of steps and fuel as well as of time. 
In the winter, by washing and ironing once in two weeks 
instead of every week, much exposure is saved in the 
hanging out of clothes and the lifting of tubs, bench and 
wringer. 
It was surprising how many necessary steps it took 
last summer to watch the new bed of choice roses I It was 
certainly a great economy of time and steps to have them 
as near the house as they were. I suspect they saved some 
friction also. 
The extra day—Thursday—has for its share any work 
necessarily deferred from the other days. For plan and 
theorize as I may, I often find at night, that some part of 
that day’s work is undone. A storm has delayed the wash¬ 
ing, some help has been needed out-of doors, or callers have 
come. When there is no deferred work I find this extra 
day a good time to do necessary cleaning, canning fruit, or 
sewing 
A good supply of oil and a cheery heart go a great w-ay 
in the economy of friction. I often find use for an oil can 
and screw driver and escape many an annoyance. We buy 
empty lard cans—50 pound sizes—of the grocer for 15 cents 
each ; as they have tight covers, we find them very useful. 
I sift enough flour at a time to fill one of them two-thirds 
full, leaving room for a pint measure and the scoop. 
Economy in money and materials for those of us who 
are living beneath our fathers’ roofs, consists usually in 
making our allowances—or whatever our fathers give us— 
go as far as possible. I am sure that if every farmer’s 
daughter could have an allowance, less would be said about 
woman’s extravagance. It is the only way in which we 
can learn the real value of money and true economy in 
spending it. I know before buying how much I can spend 
and how much I need. It is a decided pleasure to save in 
one direction in order to spend in another. E. v. F. 
* * * 
It will be found quite convenient to keep on hand a 
quantity of flour and lard, rubbed together in the propor¬ 
tion of one quart of flour, to one teacupful of lard. For 
pies, add salt and water; one teacup of water will make 
four pies. 
For biscuits, use one pint of the mixture to every one of 
sour milk, with one level teaspoonful of soda and two 
rather heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder, sifted in 
flour; enough can be mixed for several meals, and the last 
baking will be as good as the first, if kept in a cool place. 
Sifted hard-coal ashes make excellent scouring dust. 
If a small scrub-brush is kept in the sink, to be used for 
washing the bottoms of skillets and kettles, it will go far 
towards saving the complexion of the dish cloth. 
