A CONVERSATION ABOUT DWARF PEARS. 
NUMBER TWO. 
Editor. —We will renew our examination, and, 
to do so, we must take a walk of about a mile and 
a half east of the city. There we will find some 
trees of my own planting. The soil is of a yellow 
sandy loam, known in this part of the country as a 
chestnut loam. In the spring of 1852, I planted 
fifty dwarf pear trees, of different varieties. About 
half a dozen of this number were three years old, 
ten four and five years old, and the balance two 
year old trees. You see them standing in two 
rows, each side of a wide path through the center 
of the garden. There is now little difference in the 
size, although those that were the largest when 
planted are the heaviest, thickest in the trunk, but 
those that were two years old when planted are of 
the best form. 
Visitor. —Would you argue, then, from this ex¬ 
ample, that there is no advantage in planting trees 
older than two years ? 
Editor. —As a general thing, I would prefer 
planting trees not older than two years, that is for 
setting out in orchards, Ac., and if I wished to 
make a most perfect tree I would even prefer toj 
plant at one year from the bud, for a tree taken at 
that age can be made, by proper treatment, to as¬ 
sume any form desired. But, if I had a new place 
without fruit, I would procure, if possible, a few 
bearing trees on the quince root. One of the trees 
five years old, a Virgalieu, bore, the first year it 
was planted, sixty-three fine pears, of extra size, 
color and flavor, and I exhibited them all in one 
basket at the Fall Show of the Genesee Valley 
Horticultural Society, and there were no finer spe¬ 
cimens on exhibition. Another tree, a Duchesse de 
Angouletne, bore about two dozen specimens, and 
I have never seen them excelled for size, color and 
general excellence. These were exhibited at the 
same show, and I afterward gave specimens to Mr. 
Barry, who considered them at least equal to any 
he had ever tasted, and to H. P. Norton, President 
of the Fruit Growers’ Society of Western New 
York, who considered them altogether the finest 
specimens of this variety he had ever seen or tasted. 
So much pleased was Mr. P. with them, and such 
an impression did they make upon him, that even 
now he is apt to speak of them. These trees, on 
account of disappointment in fencing and getting 
the ground ready, were not planted until about the 
twentieth of May, and were in full bloom when 
taken up. Yet, not one died, and all would have 
borne-fruit had they been permitted to do so. Of 
course such a growth of fruit the first year after 
transplanting prevents a proper growth of wood, 
and is not a good plan. It was only done as an 
experiment, and the trees were liberally supplied 
with liquid manure while perfecting the fruit, or I 
think it would have dropped off. I would only 
recommend that a few specimens should be retained 
the first season, and the second will give a good 
crop without checking the growth of the tree. 
Visitor. —This soil is very light. I had supposed 
that a heavy soil was best adapted to the pear and 
the quince. 
Editor. —Had I my choice I would prefer a soil a 
little heavier for the dwarf pear, that is if it was 
well drained. On such a soil as this it is necessary, 
I find, to manure pretty freely to obtain a good 
growth of wood, otherwise the trees will over-bear, 
while the growth of wood will be quite too small, 
and the tree will soon assume a stunted and un¬ 
thrifty appearance. I have known dwarf trees 
planted on almost clear sand in this county, but in 
such a situation they make but little growth. My 
experience is that they will grow in any place 
here but a swamp or a sand-bank. We will take a 
drawing of one of these trees, an average speci¬ 
men, so as to show what the dwarf will make, 
under ordinary good treatment, in seven years from 
planting. 
oft by the wind, at the point of union between the 
quince and pear wood, and some others were in¬ 
jured by unruly cattle that scaled the fence. Their 
places were filled, in the fall of 1854, by young 
trees, and as these are now of excellent form, we 
will take a drawing of one of them, as a model. 
LEAF BLIGHT-CRACKING OF THE PEAR. 
Every one of these trees have borne enough to pay 
for themselves and the care they have received, 
twice over, and in 1857 fruit from them was ex¬ 
hibited at the State Fair, and obtained the first 
premium offered for “ the best twelve varieties, six 
of each.” 
Six or eight of these trees arc younger than the 
others. A few Dartletts on the quince were broken 
Now we will pass further down the avenue, and 
look at another lot of trees I planted in 1853. They 
were only one year old when set out., and have 
been planted six years. They are of better form 
than the others, remarkably thrifty; indeed, are all 
that can be desired. The treatment they received 
was the same as described for the others, but you 
will notice the soil is a little lower’and somewhat 
heavier. I doubt whether a finer lot of trees of 
their age can be found anywhere, and yet, since 
the summer of 1855, they have not received better 
treatment than any good farmer would give his 
corn crop. In 185G these 120 trees, in all, bore a 
very large crop. The owner had just taken pos¬ 
session of the place, and knowing but little about 
fruit or trees, and wishing to obtain all the fruit 
possible, allowed them to over-bear, and the con¬ 
sequence was, in 1857 there was but a small crop 
of fruit on most of the trees, though a few of them 
bore well. Yet, with this drawback, the crop sold 
was 30 bushels, which brought, I am informed, 
$120, besides the early varieties eaten by the family. 
Not one of these trees, that I recollect, was injured 
by blight. On the right is a square of one huudred 
peach trees, planted in 1852, and they now are 
about gone. They have never borne what would 
be considered two full crops, and in 1857 did not 
bear a peach, and but very few the past summer. 
They have not borne as many bushels as the pears, 
and though I cannot say certainly, do not think 
half as many. The standard cherries are now fine 
trees, and the dwarf cherries and apples, all planted 
the same year, very beautiful bushes, though as 
yet they have not produced much fruit. In our 
next journey we will examine some trees that have 
been longer planted, and are larger and finer. 
Visitor. —This certainly is as strange to me as 
any of the “big stories” that I have read about, or 
seen ridiculed in some of the papers. 
Editor. —The truth should not be concealed be¬ 
cause some choose to disbelieve it. The facts, and 
all the facts that can be obtained are needed on 
this subject. Tliero has been too much theory, 
and too much scribbling by those who have never 
decently cultivated a dwarf pear tree or any other 
tree in their lives. 
Visitor. —It seems to me if they had not borne 
a pear the increased value of the trees, being now 
in a healthy, vigorous state, of handsome form, 
and covered with fruit buds, would well compen¬ 
sate for all the labor bestowed upon them. But, 
as I am in pursuit of kuowledge, I wish to under¬ 
stand what you mean by the “ ordinary good cul¬ 
ture,” which these trees have received. 
Editor. —After planting, a good coat of manure 
was placed over the ground, for some distance 
around the tree. This remained until late in 
the summer, when it was forked in, and before 
severe frost another coat of manure was given, 
which remained until spring, when that was 
forked in, and another top-dressing added.— 
This was continued until the spring of 1856, 
when the place was disposed of, and since 
that time, a little hoeing up of the weeds, and 
occasionally, perhaps, a little manure has been 
the amount of the labor bestowed upon them. 
I forgot to mention the pruning. While in 
my possession they were pruned every spring, 
to obtain a good form, and to increase the 
growth of wood. 
Visitor. —These trees, I observe, stand but 
eight feet apart. Is that the proper distance? 
Editor. —It would be rather close for or¬ 
chard planting, but you will observe that 
’ these trees, standing each side of a wide 
avenue, although eight feet from each other 
one way, are more than twelve the other, 
which affords ample room, at least for the 
present. Perhaps, however, time will show 
that ten or twelve feet apart would have been 
a better distance, for if they continue to grow 
the next ten years as they have the seven 
years past, they will be much crowded. 
Visitor. —Is it possible that pear trees do as 
well iu other places as here, with the same 
culture? If so, I see no cause of complaint. 
But, may they not iu other localities require 
far better culture? 
Editor. —A man may struggle against one 
or two obstacles and conquer, whilst a greater 
number would overwhelm him. The same is 
true of a tree. A tree planted in a good, dry, 
mellow soil, well suited to its growth, will bear 
neglect better than one planted in cold, wet clay. 
In late numbers of the Rural I have seen several 
articles on that interesting question, the Cause of 
the Cracking of the Pear, and the Leaf Plight. 
While on a visit, in the month of July last, to a 
valued friend, the well known Horticulturist, Wm. 
Chorlton, of Staten Island, our conversation and 
attention was directed to this subject, and we 
spent some time in looking into and investigating 
the cause of the leaf blight in Pear trees. Mr. 
Chorlton inclined to the opinion that the spots on 
the leaves (usually called blight) were mainly 
caused through atmospheric influence, while I was 
inclined to think it the work of some minute insect, 
(but neither one of us was very confident in his 
opinion.) We examined pretty thoroughly the 
leaves in all their different stages of growth, which 
indicated the least signs of disease, commencing 
with those which were fully matured, when we 
found on the under surface of the majority of 
leaves which underwent our inspection, small 
globules of a clear liquid. These, on being punc¬ 
tured with the sharp point of a penknife, caused 
the liquid to spread, and from the centre of each 
globule thus dispersed started a very minute 
insect , exceedingly quick in its movement. From 
its small size and the want of a lens of sufficient 
capacity, we were unable at that time to determine 
anything about its character, but of one fact we 
had ocular demonstration, that wherever the glob¬ 
ules were removed the epidermis of that portion 
of the leaf which they occupied was entirely eaten 
away; and it also became apparent that where these 
globules had disappeared of themselves, brown look¬ 
ing blotches appeared in their places, which seemed 
identical with those kuowr as leaf blight. In our 
examination of the young and tender shoots where 
the leaves were but partially developed, which 
were covered with the same brown looking blotches, 
we discovered, on stripping these leaves from the 
stem, numbers of these minute insects starting 
from their axils. This was the result of our inves¬ 
tigations at that time. 
Now my own conclusions are simply these—that 
these minute insects are the primary cause of the 
disease, from the fact that wherever the epidermis 
of the leaf is eaten away, or becomes in any way 
injured, decomposition of the part so injured must 
to a certain extent ensue. Hence, the leaf becomes 
in a fit state and liable to be attacked at any 
moment by the parasitic fungus which has been 
committing such ravages among the finer kinds 
of our Pears, and which if not immediately checked 
after it is found to exist, soon spreads nearly over 
the whole tree. That it is a fungus or mildew, as 
it is called, I feel pretty certain, for on an exami¬ 
nation which I made last summer with Mr. Finney, 
of Brockport, of some Pear trees ( White Doyennes) 
belonging to that gentleman, which were thus 
affected, I became fully convinced that it was as 
clear a case of mildew as I had ever seen, and Mr- 
Pinney was of the same opinion. 
Now for the Remedy, which I would recom¬ 
mend, andit is one which I have recommended 
and applied for ar^jjier of years past, and 
always with succqssjl- otWr kinds of trees and 
plants for the eradication of mildew in what¬ 
ever shape. Procure a good water-tight barrel; 
throw in about a peck of fresh lime and four or 
five pounds of sulphur; pour over the whole half 
a dozen pails of boiling water; stir all well to¬ 
gether. Then cover over the top of the barrel two 
or three thicknesses of coarse canvass; let it stand 
undisturbed for twenty-four hours, and the liquid 
will be ready for use. Take about a pint of the 
liquid and throw into a pail of rain-water, stirring 
it well; take a garden syringe and give the trees a 
good syringing, and continue the application once, 
or not more than twice, a week, until the mildew 
disappears. I do not positively assert that this 
will eradicate the mildew on Pears, but as I have 
before stated, I have tried it on almost every other 
kind of trees thus affected, and always with the 
utmost success. At any rate, it is worth a trial. 
Rochester, N. Y., 1858. W. W. 
FLOWER SEEDS. 
I noticed in a late number of the Rural a com¬ 
munication from R. B., Preston, C. W., with the 
following question:—“ Is it really worth while to 
pay the extra price for seed sold by B. K. Buss, 
and are they really more reliable than ordinary 
seedsmen (of respectability) are in the habit of 
selling?” Also a call upon correspondents from 
yourself, to give an account of their success with 
the seeds named. 
Allow me to give “ R. B.” my experience for the 
last two seasons. In the first, I purchased my 
seeds of a Boston company of long standing and 
“of respectability.” One half the lot, and those 
the choicest kinds, failed to germinate. I cannot 
think it my fault, for I distributed the seeds among 
several friends, and they had no better success. 
Those that did grow were of the most ordinary 
kind. Last season I purchased of B. K. Bliss, 
and as I have previously informed your readers, 
out of twenty or thirty packets not one was a fail¬ 
ure. And such beautiful specimens of Pansies, 
Asters, Stocks, Balsams, Ac., had never before been 
seen in this vicinity. The Asters, particularly, 
were the admiration of every one. Strangers in 
passing, frequently stopped to ask for my method 
of raising such Asters. I could only refer them to 
my seedsman. 
But, Mr. Editor, it was news to me that the 
prices charged by Mr. Bliss are “extra.” I paid 
no more for mine than for the worthless trash from 
Boston, and I have compared his priced Catalogues 
with all others published in New England, and 
with TnoBURN’s, in New York, and can find no 
material difference. l. h. j. 
Colchester, Vt., 1858. 
Remarks. —The price of flower or any garden 
seeds is a matter of little consequence. First rate 
seeds are cheap at almost any price, and poor ones 
are dear for nothing. Too many of the flower 
seeds sent out by our commercial seedsmen, we 
have good reason to know are worthless, and it 
matters but little whether they grow or not. Our 
own seeds we have imported from France for many 
years. Some years ago one of our seedsmen pre¬ 
sented us with a collection of seeds, and was 
surprised that we should inform him that we would 
not encumber our ground with them. We directed 
him to a source in Europe where he could obtain 
such as would do him credit and please his cus¬ 
tomers, since which time he has kept as good seeds 
as any in the country. We have seen some sent 
out by the establishment indicated that did not 
come up to our standard, but as a general thing 
we believe they have given the very best satisfac¬ 
tion. Other establishments, for aught we know, 
may do as well, but there is a lack of enterprise or 
honor, or something, among our seed-dealers, or 
they would never send out such trash as the 
country is flooded with. They should obtain the 
choicest, and charge accordingly; but many seem 
content to send out the same old things,—single 
Asters and Lady-slippers, and Love-lies-bleeding, 
and other trash—from year to year, without the 
least idea of progress or improvement. Of late 
years English florists have given particular atten¬ 
tion to the improvement of Hollyhocks and Sweet 
Williams, and the former is now grown as double 
and almost as beautiful as the rose, while the latter 
is so much improved as to seem almost like a new, 
and is certainly a most lovely flower. Whoever 
should buy seeds of these at most of the stores, 
and plant them, expecting to obtain these improved 
sorts, we fear would be sadly disappointed. Per¬ 
haps the fault is partly with the people, who are 
too apt to purchase cheap things without much 
inquiry as to the quality. But in this respect 
seedsman are far behind the nurserymen. They 
obtain, by the very first steamer, any thing new or 
valuable that appears in Europe, regardless of 
cost; and lie who can obtain any desirable plant a 
season in advance of others considers himself 
exceedingly fortunate. 
PUDDING, CORN BREAD, COLORING RECIPES 
GROWING CAULIFLOWERS. 
Tue Annual Meeting of the Fruit Growers' So¬ 
ciety of Western Hew York is to be held in this 
city to-morrow, (Tuesday.) We will give a report 
of all proceedings of interest next week. 
Messrs. Editors: — I have been interested in the 
articles you have published on Cauliflowers, and 
there is no reason why they should not be as com¬ 
mon in our gardens as Cabbage, but to grow them 
in perfection we must start right. The plants can 
be started as you recommend in your last number, 
either in a hot-bed or on the south side of a fence 
or building; but if plants are raised in a liot-bed 
they come into heading during the heat of sum¬ 
mer, and instead of forming a large, compact head, 
it is small, and splits up into small sprouts. If 
raised on the south side of a building or fence, the 
heat and shelter you seek for your plants is also a 
shelter and harbor for the fly, and few will be the 
plants you will have left for transplanting. The 
open ground the north side of an open board fence, 
or the west side of a building or tight board fence 
is perhaps the best place, out of doors, but the 
surest and best way is to raise them under a cold 
frame. If you have not hot-bed sash and frame, a 
common window sash will do. Make a frame of 
inch boards, 12 inches high behind and 9 in front; 
cut notches in the stiles and lower part of the sash, 
to let the water run oft', or when the sun shines it 
will operate as a leus, and burn your plants. Sow 
in drills 3 inches apart; when up, air freely, and 
frequently stir the earth with the fingers. Sow 
from the 15th to 20th of April; transplant from 
20 th of May to 1st of June. This is the way I have 
raised them for the last seven years, and you can 
tell, Mr. Editor, with what success. The Early 
Paris and Large Late Lenormand are the best 
varieties. The seed is imported. w. v. 
Rochester, Jail., 1859. 
Remarks. —The above is from one who has raised 
most excellent Cauliflower, as we have the very 
best reason to know. We presented him, a good 
many years ago, with the first Early Paris Cauli¬ 
flower seed brought to this part of the country. 
The objection to planting in a sheltered position, 
on account of insects, is good, but a sheltered 
place is almost absolutely necessary in some locali¬ 
ties to produce plants ready to transplant by the 
middle of May or first of June, unless the cold 
frame is made use of, as recommended. We hope 
the time is not far distant when more attention 
will be given to this truly delicious vegetable, both 
by amateurs and gardeners. 
Eds. Rural: —We have been subscribers to your 
paper from its commencement until the present 
time, and look upon it as one of the necessary ap¬ 
pendages of home. The variety of its contents 
renders it indeed a Family paper, and the column 
devoted to Domestic Economy is particularly in¬ 
teresting to me as a housekeeper. It has contained 
many useful suggestions that have proved valuable 
to me, and I could think of no better way to ex¬ 
press my thankfulness to my sister contributors 
than to add my mite to the list of recipes. 
I send you one for a pudding which we think is 
very good. Make a crust in the same manner as 
for nice short biscuit, with the addition of an egg, 
regulating the quantity to the size of the family. 
Roll a portion of the crust to one-fourth of an inch 
in thickness, line a deep pudding dish with it— 
have ready some apples pared and sliced, put in 
a layer of apples, sprinkle on them some fat salt 
pork chopped fine, add a very little water, and sea¬ 
son with sugar and spice as you like an apple pie, 
then roll a thin layer of crust and lay over, then 
put in another layer of apple, pork, and season as 
before, then cover again with crust. Bake in a 
moderate oven two hours—take it from the oven 
and dampen the top crust and cover it close to 
steam fifteen or twenty minutes before carrying to 
the table. 
Indian Corn Bread. —Place a kettle over the 
fire with four quarts water, and when it is scalding 
hot, stir in corn meal as thick as you can, con¬ 
veniently ; take it off before boiling and set it 
away to cool. When it is sufficiently cool, mix in 
with the hand a pint of rye flour, or wheat canail, 
and four tablespoonfuls of molasses. I put mine 
iu the oven, previously heated, about three o’clock 
P. M., and bake fast until it is browned over, then 
bake very slow, and let stand in until wanted for 
breakfast. It will generally keep warm through 
the night, and we think is excellent. 
I have noticed requests in the late number of 
the Rural for some recipes for coloring. I have 
some called good for coloring scarlet with cochi¬ 
neal. For 6 lbs. cloth, take 4 oz. cochineal, finely 
powdered; 2 oz. quercitron bark ; put 8 oz. chlorid 
of tin into a brass kettle, water sufficient for the 
goods, let it come to a boiling heat, put in the 
goods and let stand 15 minutes, then take out and 
put in the cochineal and bark, boil 15 minutes, 
then put in the cloth and stand half an hour. 
When cool scour in soap suds. It will not change 
color. 
Coloring Cotton Red. —Take 1 lb. peachwood, 
boil 2 hours, dissolve 5 oz. alum in hot water, put 
in the goods, let stand 15 minutes, take out the 
cloth, keep warm an hour or two, and let it remain 
in over night—rinse in warm water. This will 
color 2 lbs. cloth. A Subscriber. 
Leonardsville, Mad. Co., N. Y., 1858. 
THE ART OF PATCHING. 
Hubbard Squash. —Will you please give us a de¬ 
scription of the Hubbard Squash, size, color, Ac., and 
where the seeds can be obtained, if possible ?—A Rural 
Friend, Ripley, N. Y., 1858. 
Remarks. —The questions asked by our corres¬ 
pondent were answered in the Rural of last week. 
To aid, however, in giving a more correct idea as 
to its appearance, we give above a drawing of this 
fine squash, from a specimen now before us. 
Growing Radishes in Coal Ashes.—A gentle¬ 
man of Hamilton, N. Y., writes—“ The soil in this 
vicinity is altogether unsuited for growing Rad¬ 
ishes. I however, raised them excellent the past 
year by sowing the seed in coal ashes. The radish 
grows vigorously, without injury from the worm.” 
Horticulture in Oregon. —From the Oregon 
Farmer, we see that a State Fruit Growers Society 
has been established in Oregon. It was organized 
at Salem, on the 20th of October. One exhibition 
of fruits presented 26 varieties of apples, 14 of 
pears, 3 of grapes, and several varieties of plums. 
There was quite an interesting discussion on ap¬ 
ples. The special favorites seemed to be the Red 
June, Early Harvest, Rambo, Gravenstein, Yellow 
Newtown Pippin, Wine Sap, White Winter Pear- 
main and Esopus Spitzenburg. The pears spoken 
of with most favor was the Bartlett, Seckel, Winter 
Nelis, Vicar of Winkfield and Easter Beurre.— 
The officers are; Presdent — Amos Harvey, of 
Polk; Vice President —I. N. Gilbert ; Secretary 
— C. N. Terry; Treasurer — Joseph Cox, of 
Marion. 
A State Horticulture Society has been organized 
in Illinois. We will give notes of proceedings in 
a future number. 
The operation of patching requires far more 
skill than does the making of a new garment, and 
when well executed may save the purchase of 
many a costly one; the most expensive robe may, 
by accident, be torn, or spotted, the first day of its 
wear—and the piece inserted in lieu of the dam¬ 
aged part is a patch. If a figured material, the 
pattern must be exactly matched; in all cases the 
insertion must be made without pucker, and the 
kind of seam must be such as, though strong, will 
be least apparent—the corners must also be turned 
with neatness. This is an art that requires teach¬ 
ing. So of darning; much instruction is neces¬ 
sary as to the number of threads to be left by the 
needle, according to the kind of fabrics, and 
there is also the kind of thread or yarn most suita¬ 
ble to be determined. Where the article is coarse, 
the chief attention is directed to expedition, but a 
costly article of embroidery on muslin can only be 
well darned with ravelings of a similar muslin. 
The stocking stitch is neither more difficult nor 
more tedious than the darn, yet many pairs of 
stockings are lost for want of knowing it, when a 
hole happens to be above the shoe. Practice in 
lace stitches is desirable, particularly for repairing 
lace of costly description. The deficiency of a 
single loop, when lace is to be washed, often be¬ 
comes a large hole during the operation, and the 
beauty of the lace is destroyed. The shawl-stitch 
is one which, when employed with ravelings from 
the shawl itself, can be used to repair the most 
costly cashmere, without a possibility of discover¬ 
ing the inserted part.— Cincinnati Gazette. 
Bread-Making. — I think I can improve a little 
upon “A Young Mexican’s” mode of making good 
bread. Take eight good-sized potatoes, pare and 
slice them, then boil—when done, mash them fine, 
and while hot add the same bulk of sifted flour as 
of potatoes. Add a little cool water and stir to a 
thick batter, then add a little salt, and when milk- 
warm stir in one cake of “Hopkin’s Yeast Com¬ 
pound” (previously dissolved in a little cold water.) 
Cover it warm and set by in a warm place until 
morning—then take this sponge for wetting and 
proceed to make your dough. When worked suffi¬ 
cient, make loaves, place them in pans, and in a 
little while they will be light enough to bake. Al¬ 
ways sift your flour before using. If you fail to 
have good bread it will be some mismanagement of 
your own. . A Lover op Good Bread. 
To Bone a Turkey. —Remove the flesh from the 
bone with a sharp knife, scraping it downwards, 
being careful not to cut it to pieces. Begin at the 
wings, and do not tear or break the skin. Loosen 
the flesh from the breast, back, and thighs. Draw 
the skeleton by the neck, from the flesh, then stuff 
it with a dressing prepared in the same way as for 
roast turkey. If there are any broken places, sew 
them up. Bake it about three hours. Serve it up 
cold. 
