58 
THE FLORIST. 
languish and die. The Cherry is a favourite with every one, and as 
such it well deserves a little extra care and outlay in preparing the soil 
for the reception of the trees. Therefore, if the natural soil is unfavour¬ 
able to its culture, it should be removed to the depth of two feet, where 
the trees are to be planted, and not less than six feet wide. Make the 
bottom of the hole quite solid, by placing a layer of brick rubbish, 
chalk, or other material, ramming it well down to prevent the roots 
penetrating into the subsoil. The holes should be filled up with a 
mixture of porous loam, with a fourth part of chalk or gravel, treading 
it firmly down before planting the trees. October is the best time for 
this operation, and, if a little rotten manure be placed on the surface, 
round the trees, it will encourage them to root before the winter sets in, 
and the result will be a free growth the following summer, which is 
seldom the case in winter and spring planting. Avoid vigorous growing 
kinds for planting in prepared soil, such as the Bigarreau, and kindred 
varieties, preferring those of the Duke class. 
Every wall aspect in a garden is suitable for all kinds of Cherries ; 
but, for the purpose of extending the season of this fruit, it is well to 
arrange the sorts for each aspect; for instance, the Early Purple 
Guigne, May Duke, Werder’s Black Eagle and Elton, for a south or 
south-east aspect; Holman’s Duke, Royal Duke, Bigarreau Napoleon, 
Black Tartarian, Downton, and Elton for east and west; and for, a 
northern aspect, the Bigarreau Napoleon, Late Duke, Florence and 
Morello. If arranged in this manner Cherries may be had from June 
to October. 
The fan form of training is best adapted to this fruit tree (see previous 
chapters, page 302, fig. 15), except for espalier rails or low walls, 
where it is necessary to adopt the horizontal form. The strong growing 
kinds ought to have plenty of space allotted, especially in soils where 
they make free growth; twenty-four feet from tree to tree is not too 
much, and from fifteen to twenty feet for those of slow growth, or where 
planted in prepared soils, will be found sufficient. 
Cherries are mostly produced from spurs, and seldom on the young 
wood, except the Dukes and Morello. Therefore, the principal pruning 
required after the trees have covered the allotted space, and are furnished 
with the desired number of branches, is the shortening and regulating 
the spurs, which form on wood of the previous year’s growth, and 
continue productive for a number of years. And the principal thing is 
to prevent those fruiting spurs from extending outwards. If allowed 
to get long and scraggy, the advantage of the wall will, in a measure, 
be lost, and the trees will have a very unsightly appearance. The 
summer pruning should commence with stopping all shoots growing 
from the spurs, as soon as they have made a growth of four or five 
inches; this will check the ravages of the black-fly. Assist the fruit 
and strengthen the fruit buds forming for the following season. Should 
another growth ensue, again stop and thin the shoots previous to the 
ripening of the fruit. After the crop is gathered, shorten back the 
shoots that were stopped, and clean the trees by a thorough washing 
with the garden engine. 
The winter pruning may be done any time between November and 
