140 
TIIE FLORIST. 
spurs where fruit-buds are in the course of formation a terminal wood 
bud should be left till the buds below are formed, when the spur can be 
reduced as before stated. If any old spurs get too long or unmanage¬ 
able, cut close back, when others will form at the base. 
All The varieties of the Pear do not fruit precisely in the same 
manner, consequently a little variation in their management is requisite. 
Such as have the habit of Gansel’s Bergamot and Van Mons Leon le 
Clerc produce their finest fruits from small shoots of the previous 
summer’s growth, therefore at the time of pruning it is requisite to 
retain a number of their shoots entire, and not depend entirely on the 
short spurs for a crop ; they can be removed after once fruiting and 
replaced by others. 
But few insects infest the Pear, with the exception of the scale and 
the slag worm or leach caterpillar. To eradicate the white and brown 
scale, which fixes on the bark, use a strong mixture of soft soap, tobacco 
water, and a little salt, applied in the winter season with a painter’s 
brush; or a wash of the same used about the end of June, at which 
time the young progeny begin to migrate and fix themselves on the 
young shoots and fruit. 
The slug worm feeds on the surface of the leaf, and makes its 
appearance about Midsummer, and may be got rid of by dusting the 
trees with slacked lime, road dust, or soot. 
The Apple being so nearly allied to the Pear, what has been said of 
the one may be equally applied to the other. 
(To be continued.) 
GLORIOSA SUPERBA. 
Few have any conception of the glorious magnificence of this eastern 
gem when well grown and flowered. In its wild state it is found in 
damp fertile valleys in the East Indies; there it flourishes, and 
becomes dormant with the alternations of the seasons. At one time it 
is subjected to the saturating effects of periodical rains; at others, to a 
clear bright sunlight, and an increased atmospheric and terrestrial 
temperature. We should, therefore, imitate these conditions as much 
as possible in its artificial cultivation. 
Having secured good sound bulbs, I pot them about the second week 
in March, using good maiden loam, turfy peat, leaf mould, and a fair 
proportion of good sharp silver sand, incorporating and mixing the 
whole well together; the pot should be sufficiently large to allow a free 
ramification of the root, well drained with potsherds broken fine, and a 
layer of Moss should be put over them to prevent the soil deteriorating 
the drainage. Now put in a thin layer of cow-dung dried hard and 
broken in pieces about the size of a small Walnut, filling the pot with 
the admixture, gently shaking it down, without pressing with the hand. 
The pot should then be taken and plunged up to the rim in a bottom 
heat varying from 75 to 80 degrees Fahr. for a few days, till the mass 
is warmed, to receive the bulbs, which should then be planted round 
