230 
THE FLORIST. 
with the exception of those on the fruiting shoot, which must now be 
shortened, if not previously done; it is necessary to secure a few 
leaves above the fruit, and the shoot at the base entire. Do not rub 
off any wood buds on the main branches, or near the base of the tree, 
but keep them pinched back, to shade the large branch, and prevent 
the tree from becoming bare. The nailing or tying in of the summer 
growth should not be done before the end of June,—for the trees make 
better wood when growing for a time free from restraint. 
The final thinning of the fruit should finish with the stoning process; 
and the crop must be regulated according to the strength or feebleness 
of the tree ; as a general rule no two fruit should be left close together ; 
and on a’ strong growing tree or branch, about three fruit to a square 
foot, and less in those of weaker growth. Give occasional washings 
with the garden engine, and free the trees from all insects. Nothing 
more will be required till after the fruit is gathered, when all spare 
shoots on which the fruit was produced may be cut out, which will help 
to ripen the young wood. 
If the summer treatment has been properly carried out, very little 
will remain to be done at the winter pruning. We will suppose that 
during the summer young shoots have been selected to replace those 
that produced fruit, and if not removed in the autumn they must now 
be cut back to the shoot at its base, and every alternate shoot to one 
bud, at least as far as circumstances will admit, or what may be 
consistent with furnishing the tree throughout with bearing shoots. 
Be careful not to amputate large members if avoidable, and not allow 
the bearing wood or subordinate shoots to extend in length, but keep 
them well shortened back to the young wood, as before advised. The 
young shoots should not be shortened, for the greatest drawback in 
Peach culture is its liability to over luxuriant growth, and the best way 
to check its vigour is not to shorten the young shoots at the winter 
pruning, but leave them entire, when the following season’s growth will 
be both moderate and fruitful; this apj lies more especially to young 
strong growing trees, which on no account should be cut back, but their 
growth regulated in the summer time by stopping and thinning the 
summer laterals. It appears to us a folly to give a high price for a 
finely trained Peach tree from a nursery, and then head it back when 
planted,—the result of which will be a similar growth, and at the end 
of the season nothing is gained. We strongly condemn the heading 
back of young trees, considering it both unnatural and injurious. All 
that is required may be done in the summer time by stopping and 
regulating the shoots, and by keeping the soil firm about the root it will 
remain dry in the autumn and check late growth. 
The Peach tree, when worked on the Plum stock, will thrive in any 
moderately strong soil, provided it be well drained. In most instances 
it is not the soil that causes Peach trees to fail, but their decay may 
be dated from a severe attack of green-fly, or from the effects of spring 
frost. 
For out-door culture the sorts should be well chosen, avoiding those 
that are subject to mildew, as well as delicate kinds. The following 
are among the best:—Grosse Mignonne, Bellegarde, Buckingham 
