NEW FABRICS ON CITY COUNTERS. 
ORE bewilderment must lay hold of the woman 
who can have but one or two gowns, this season. 
For how shall she choose wh’ch they shall be ? Mulls, 
cambrics, ginghams, batistes, challies—all are prettier 
than ever before. 
Novelty adds more than quality to city prices. The 
novelties of the present spring and coming summer 
may be known by colorings, patterns and effects. In 
silks, wools and mixtares alike may be found the 
glacti, or two-toned effects known to our grandmothers 
as “changeable.” These, with the shot effects 
whereby the figure is raised above the background, 
and the corded effects comprise the newer weaves. 
The corded goods are in stripes, of which the cords, up 
to the size of common wrapping twine, really form the 
“ pattern,” the cords being single, or in groups, and 
nearly always of a color to contrast with the ground. 
Jn nearly every grade of goods are found grounds satin- 
striped or plaided or shot in the weaving, and after¬ 
ward printed in colored figures or dots. 
At .James McCreery & Co.’s were the corded ginghams 
known as Velours Russe. These are in gingham width, 
also in double width, with stripes to pass around the 
skirt, or to run vertically with it. They have solid 
grounds : heliotrope, with yellow cord ; blue, with 
white cord, and old rose with white. The 42-inch 
widths are 50 cents a yard. In Swiss mull the same 
effect was seen, a pretty thing in black, having alter 
nating cords of pale pink and robin's egg blue at inter¬ 
vals of half an inch. Here also were seen the Swiss 
“ Lappard ” goods in dots and figures on grounds of 
every shade. 
Ginghams are not a whit behind silks in beauty. 
One pale pink ground showed dull-blue lover's knots 
and floral figures in chin6 effects. Another in solid 
colors showed a wide broch6 border. This comes in 
skirting widths. 
For a cool traveling dress for summer, one that will 
shed dust and soil perfectly, nothing can equal the 
linen shown on 1 y by this house and another in New 
York. These wash beautifully, and are exceedingly 
durable. They come mostly in grays, in plaids and 
set damask figures. These are 25 and 30 cents a yard. 
A noticeable dotted Swiss showed pale blue and 
white in quarter-inch stripes, sprinkled with raised 
polka dots of medium size in pure scarlet. A dark 
Dlue was also in stripes with a raised floral figure an 
inch across in solid embroidery in deep red. This firm 
stated that the present is the biggest cotton season 
ever known in its experience. 
At H O’Neill & Co.’s we paid more attention to the 
summer wool goods. Here we saw a material called 
granite cloth. This is in fine all over shot effects, 
and in combinations of yellow and gray, yellow and 
blue, etc. 
Here was noted a wool surah, if one may so describe 
it, finished with the uncertain chin6 effect that our 
grandmothers loved. The outlines of the -figures are 
very indistinct, and this effect is obtained by printing 
the pattern on the warp before the woof is filled, in. 
A beautiful pale pink wool goods, light and soft, 
showed a waved stripe in shot “ mcmie ” effects, and 
was figured in deep p’nk and green. A heavier twilled 
wool for a traveling gown was in four-inch blocks, 
there being three different blocks, each showing two 
tones. One block showed faint pink and blue, another 
gray and brown. This was really quiet and smart, 
although it sounds almost loud. Here we were told 
that nearly all the popular call was for goods in 
eminence (shades of purple), heliotrope, gray-green 
and dark old-rose. Indeed these colors prevail in all 
the summer goods. 
Broadcloth was staled to be selling well for capes, 
especially in tan and gray-green. The Irish percalines 
sem here are just between cambrics and fine lawns. 
They have colored grounds, with white dots and fine 
figures. 
Among all the ai ray of beautiful fabrics, none are 
more exquisite than the swivel silks, usually called 
silk ginghams. All the stores show these in lavish 
quantity. They are silk and cotton of gingham width, 
.and are guaranteed to wash w ell with careful handling. 
Soft and lustrous as an India silk, one in pale yellow 
with small set figures in cream was a dream of beauty. 
A Scotch girgham in pale creamy-pink with pale 
blue stripes, was overlaid with the printed chin6 
figures. These were named the newest of all the cot¬ 
tons; but one would never suspect them of being cot¬ 
tons, as they have every appearance of being soft, 
delicate wool goods. With all the competition, satines 
are said to be gaining ground again. A novel one was 
set with clusters of pink azalea, and showed a dark 
(skirting border with a^a]e^ apd purple iris. T he color 
combinations of the fabric included also old-rose, 
heliotrope, green and black. 
At LeBoutillier Bros’, we saw large quantities of 
imported goods. One exquisite thing, a combination 
of silk and wool, unapproachable in delicacy and 
luster, is known here as illuminated glac6. It is 
practically the same fabric known as Fayetta or Lans- 
downe, when produced by American looms. This was 
42 inches wide, and shown in 16 color effects, all com¬ 
binations of two tints, including cream and old rose, 
green and brown, etc. The price was $1.25 per yard. 
A 46-inch goods in silk and wool in raised effects, 
was very striking. The surface is lustrous, but the 
pattern is irregular, and about half the surface is 
raised above the rest. The weave is really indescrib¬ 
able. Green and violet, and black, rose and green, 
were among the color combinations. Here was seen 
also an odd grenadine, with open meshed black sur¬ 
face woven above aglac6 lining. The lining shimmer¬ 
ing through this black, gives the effect of moire. 
These goods 48 inches wide have been sold at $6 per 
yard, but are now being closed out at lower rates. 
Here we took a lcok at the fine French challies, 
which are meeting with even more than usual favor. 
They may well be popular, for they are exquisite. A 
wild rose design in pale pink on cream ground ; a 
cream ground with pattern in delicate blue seaweed, 
and various shades powdered with English snowdrops 
and violets in clusters, were some of the favorite 
designs. These challie designs are repeated in batiste 
a carrcaux and organdies. One of these last was 
shown in gray ground with pink orchids for the 
design. Batiste a carreaux is satin-plaited in the loom, 
and printed with the designs, as noted. Plumetis is 
the colored, dotted, printed Swiss which came out 
late last season. A black ground was dotted with 
old-rose and showed a plume-like design ; another in 
brown, showed the 'orchid pattern above noted. 
Satine ray6, seen here, is self-striped, then printed. 
Lilies of the valley in pale pink formed one design. 
Nearly all the above were imported goods. 
Another call was upon Arno’d, Constable & Co. 
Here were seen the dotted Swiss mulls in every color, 
with plain polka dots ; also with figures. Many have 
the dots of a self or a slightly deeper color. One showed 
pale heliotrope with dark heliotrope figures. Yellow 
with heliotrope ; white with dull red and yellow ; 
deep heliotrope with r6s6da green ; old-rose with 
yellow and brown were some combinations. Soft 
cotton crepons in all colors were also noted. A pale 
Nile green with self-colored dots was a beauty. The 
dear old taffeta silks were here, in all the favorite 
tints ; the uncertain figures look as though the colors 
had “ run” a little. In pale yellow and pink grounds 
with roses and buds these were very pretty. The 
velours Russe department was a popular one One 
pattern showed a gray ground, the cord in white, the 
gray stripe dotted with clear red. This was 30 cents 
a yard. One soft Scotch gingham was in solid dark 
navy blue, without figure or stripe. Alcyonne is a 
new goods seen here. One pattern was satin striped, 
and sprinkled with fine dots in pale yellow and red, 
while underneath all was the glac6 effect. Another 
showed a medium brown moir6 stripe alternating with 
clusters of fine stripes in pink, green and blue. Here, 
too, were noticed a large line of robe patterns. These 
are in exquisite combinations, and are the easiest of 
all gowns to fashion. One in dotted mull, white, was 
edged with four-inch Irish Point. This, in skirting 
width, was $2 80 per yard. Most of these are sold at 
so much per pattern. 
Probably of all the goods seen, the dainty colored 
batistes and Swiss mulls will prove most attractive. 
Women whose eye for beauty meets constantly the 
hindrance of a slender purse, can afford these wider 
goods if not the t< mpting silk ginghams. 
FOR THOSE INTERESTED IN THE COMPETITION. 
The Competitive Papers. —The comparative inequality 
between the number of writers about the Farm and 
those who chcse to write about the Eldest Daughter 
grew more and more marked until the end. The Farm 
proved three times as popular as the other topic. Prob¬ 
ably this may be explained by the fact that in writing 
of the Farm, the workers could tell of what they knew 
and had felt, while the other subject required more 
hard thinking. But how shall we explain the fact that 
the writing girls outnumber the writing boys 15 to 
1. Is it because this is a woman’s department? Or 
dare we venture to wonder whether we are thus shown 
the greater comparative proficiency in spelling, gram¬ 
mar and composition of our country girls ? And if the 
women are now doing nearly all the writing, how will 
it be when these young people take our places ? More 
so ? And who shall say why the articles last received 
were, as a rule, among the best ? Was it because the 
writers took more time to think fully upon the topic 
chosen ? 
Proud of Our Young People. —We are rather proud 
of these essays. Even among the comparatively few 
about the Eldest Daughter, it is going to be difficult 
to select from the best dozen the few we can publish. 
And as to looks and correctness they might well com¬ 
pare with the work of their mothers in earlier compe¬ 
titions. Indeed, they average better, while some are 
like copper plate. Only one or two forgot and wrote 
on both sides of the page, and only two or three were 
late—there are always some belated ones, you know. 
Next week we shall show what our young people can 
do. But some of our young people, we think, are not 
very young, for the work seems like the work of old 
heads ; or have we among us some wise old heads on 
young shoulders ? Conditions as to voting will be 
given later. We wish there could be a prize for every 
one who has done good work; but since that is not 
possible, let us all try to learn all we can from the 
competition. The Chief Cook has already learned 
several things. _ 
HOW I KEPT TOMMY STILL. 
OMMY wasn’t any worse than other boys, but he 
was noisy, and too much noise isn’t good for 
the nerves (not Tommy’s nerves, but mine); so I have 
often been at my wits’ ends to provide amusements 
that would keep him happy and quiet in the house. 
The following device, however, has proved such an 
unfailing source of pleasure to him and the other 
children that I forward it for the benefit of other 
Tommies who find it hard to keep still: Out of stiff 
colored paper or card-board I directed him to cut two 
dozen circles about the size of a quarter of a dollar— 
one dozen to be divided in halves, making two dozen 
semi-circles. Taking the diameter of the circles as a 
guide, he next cut two dozen squares—one dozen 
being divided diagonally, giving two dozen right- 
angled triangles. Next he made a dozen rectangles 
with sides corresponding to the long and short sides 
of the triangle. Last of all, he made two dozen equal¬ 
sided triangles, which completed the set. 
Then I showed him how to make regular forms, by 
arranging the cards so as to make the opposite or 
four sides alike. For instance : he would put down a 
square, then put an equal-sided triangle on each side 
of it, then a semicircle on each side of the triangle, 
etc. He soon learned that by arranging the opposite 
sides alike, a symmetrical figure was the result ; and 
then I left him to his own devices—only making occa¬ 
sional suggestions, and praising his work when t was 
especially graceful. Later I gave him a blank book 
in which he traced his choicest designs in outline. 
These he colored to suit his fancy with his paints. 
Another set of forms made of two contrasting colors 
gave him much pleasure, and added greatly to the 
variety of his designs. These were arranged alter¬ 
nately, and the contrasting colors produced very 
pleasing results. 
Tommy has never had a toy that has given him 
such continued pleasure, and he is learning important 
lessons in designing, drawing and coloring, which 
will be very helpful to him in school life by and by. 
ARETTE MILEEB. 
A Three-Season Dress. —Two years ago I made a dress 
of embroidery for my five-year-old girl. I did not want 
to tuck it, as tucks cut off in ironing so much ; be¬ 
sides they show traces of the stitching after it is 
ripped. I purchased an extra depth and gathered it 
to a yoke like a Mother Hubbard. Then I measured 
the desired length of the skirt, and basted a casing 
underneath, inserting a small co r d to draw it up to 
fit the waist, the extra lengtn falling over like a 
blouse. The next summer I tied a sash over the extra 
length. This summer it is just long enough. The 
sleeves were made a little long, the yoke a little lar* e. 
There is no making over or stitching to show. An¬ 
other white dress is cut square in the neck, and has 
short sleeves, being made to wear with a guimpe 
of plain pink gingham. The bodice is cut with side 
form and under arm pieces and is an inch or more 
too long. I pin the lower edge of the bodice to the 
under skirt band, let the extra length fall over, and 
tie a sash around to match the guimpe. 
When Baby was sick, we gave her Castoria. 
When she was a Child, she cried for Castoria 
When she became Miss, she clung to Castoria 
When she had Children, she gave them Castoria. 
