1893 
413 
THE RURAL NEW-YORKER. 
—varying somewhat according to the variety of 
apple. I am preparing to set another orchard of GOO 
trees as fast as the stock can be grown, of the new 
Russian winter apple lately illustrated in The Rural, 
and of which its editor says: “It is at least as good as 
the Baldwin at its best.” Until that is accomplished, 
no wood of this apple can be spared. When it is 
accomplished, from the growth of the young stock 
and the fruiting of the original tree a tolerably fair 
judgment can be made of the probable merits of the 
tree itself as regards vigor, etc., for general culture. 
It is more than possible that Prof. Budd may, before 
long, indentify this apple with some variety in the 
extensive orchards at the Iowa Agricultural College. 
I am not sure whether it came from him, or from his 
companion in the Russian expedition, Mr. Charles 
Gibb, of Montreal. The other apple, Anisim, figured 
at the same time in The Rural, is being quite widely 
planted in the West, and is highly spoken of. It is as 
good a keeper, but not so large, or of as good dessert 
quality as the unknown variety here referred to. 
The Anisim tree, Prof. Budd says in a recent issue of 
Rural Life, is all right in every way, and has proved 
iron- clad against climate very far north. T. H. HOSKINS. 
Making: “ Granular” Batter. 
C. McK., Saxon, N. C .—Will The Rural tell us some¬ 
thing about the granular process of making butter ? 
Is there such a process and is it patented; is it possible 
always to make granular butter ? 
Ans. —In churning, when the butter first “ comes,” 
it is in the form of granules about the size of wheat 
kernels. These are more apparent in the swing and 
barrel churns now so much in use, than in the old 
dash churn. The churning should be stopped when 
the butter reaches this stage, when the butter-milk 
may be drawn off, and the butter washed with weak 
brine. Most of the butter-milk is taken out in this 
way, necessitating less working. Some who do not 
like the butter very salt, salt it en tirely by this wash¬ 
ing. Little working is needed if the butter be washed 
until the water comes away clear. The process is not 
patented, and we know of no reason why it isn’t 
always possible to make this butter, provided the 
cream is in good condition, though it is easier in the 
newer churns than in the old dash. 
Bordeaux Mixture Too Strong. 
W. 11. A., Fayetteville, Ark.—My grape vines and 
gooseberry bushes seem to be dying and look as though 
they had been scalded after being sprayed with the 
Bordeaux Mixture. I made it after a formula taken 
from a spraying catalogue, with six pounds of blue 
vitriol in 16 gallons of water, and four pounds of lime 
in six gallons of water; but as the mixture looked 
rather strong, I put in enough water to make 40 gal¬ 
lons altogether and let it stand two days before using. 
Is not that still too strong ? After one day’s use and 
standing overnight the cylinder of the cast-iron pump 
is so corroded as to be unfit for further use. An iron 
rod used for stirring was eaten through in the same 
time. Wouldn’t that mixture stand about four times 
as much water and still be strong enough for spraying? 
Ans. —That mixture was not too strong. Grape 
growers in the Hudson River region, however, are 
using a mixture containing six pounds of copper, four 
of lime and 45 gallons of water diluted to half its 
strength—that is with 45 gallons added. The R N -Y. 
finds that for potato vines two ounces each of copper 
and lime to a gallon of water will not harm the vines. 
Theory and Practice of a Stone Ditch. 
W. L. S., Tumwater, Wash.— In The Rural of May 
6, under the caption of “ A Ditcher for the Ditcher,” 
Mr. C, E. Chapman tells us about draining by putting 
stones in ditches; will he tell us if after the stones 
are put in the ditch, the earth is put back in it on the 
stones without anything else being put on the top of 
the latter ? 
Ans. —From the question I conclude that Mr. S. has 
had no experience in using stones for a ditch and offer 
a few hints. Never throw them in loose. It’s a waste 
of time, as the ditch soon becomes clogged and the 
water comes to the surface. Lay a good throat and 
do the work yourself. This is the only way to secure 
permanent results. Why is it we are so apt to distrust 
our own judgment on some unusual work and willing 
to pay big wages to some tramp who comes along 
looking for a job, claiming to be an expert; but who 
may have never seen the work done ? He has the 
brass to try and nothing to lose. We have intelligence 
and self-interest enough to make our work superior 
without experience, to his. Thus I reasoned as I 
stood by my first ditch 17 years ago and I went at it and 
stoned it alone. It works well yet, and will for 50 
years to come. Put the bottom stones below the frost 
line so that they will not heave. There are three 
ways of placing them according to the width of the 
ditch and their own size. The mode I prefer in wide 
ditches is to have stones on each side and a cover laid 
on. The center of the ditch is a little the highest and 
the side stones keep crowding to the outside. The 
cover of flat stones should reach well across so as not 
to work off and drop down. Cover all cracks with 
other flat stones and put in as many more as you can 
spare or have time to draw until the ditch is nearly 
full. In clay land too much dirt on top of the stones 
will get packed down and hold the surface water. In 
a narrow ditch dig one side a trifle lower than the 
other and put in good-sized jam stones. Put flat 
stones against the opposite side and let them lie on 
top of the jam stones. This makes a V-shaped throat. 
Put more stones on top of the cover and wedge this 
down against the bank to hold it tightly. Fill in with 
stones to level up. A third way is to take two flat 
stones and set them against the opposite sides of the 
bank, bring the tops together in the center ; then fill 
in behind them to hold them firmly. I do not like 
this way, as if one slips both may fall in and close the 
throat. A stone throat if firmly laid and covered with 
stones will not need that anything should be put on 
it before covering it with earth and a horse can be 
driven on it without injury, while plowing in the 
covering. In this county we often dig ditches partially 
at least to provide a place to get rid of stones. If 
there are only a few of them on top of the cover, 
scatter in some straw, which will keep the dirt from 
rattling through until it is well settled. The lifetime 
of a ditch depends on the care taken to keep the 
mouth open. If the fine earth cannot run out the 
throat soon fills. c k. chapman. 
Cutting Off a Horn. 
S. L. J., Ballston, Va.— Will The Rural illustrate a 
mode or two of dishorning cattle ? 
Ans. —Send to the Leavitt Manufacturing Co., Ham¬ 
mond, Ill., and the Humane Dehorning Co., Blooming¬ 
ton, Wis., for their illustrated circulars. These con¬ 
tain pictures showing how the animal’s head should 
be secured in order to saw or clip the horn cff. The 
following method was given by Dr. F. L. Kilborne 
in The R. N.-Y. some five years ago : A strong 
stanchion is needed, like that pictured at Fig. 148. 
Firmly set two nine-foot posts 1% feet apart three feet 
in the ground. To these bolt the stanchion as shown 
in the picture. Leave a space about six inches wide 
for the animal’s neck. Make the frame of 2x0 scant¬ 
lings well bolted. Tie the animal’s head with a strong 
rope 18 feet long and with a small loop or iron ring at 
one end. The loop or ring is passed over the neck and 
brought down to the angle of the jaw, where the rope 
of the other side is looped upon itself and through the 
ring, and the loop passed up over the nose and drawn 
tight. Now throw the other end of the rope over the 
cross-bar between the stanchion and post and raise 
the head as high as possible. Then pass the end 
through the ring under the jaw and off to one side. 
One man can now hold the head securely. Sometimes 
a chute or narrow stall is built behind the stanchion 
so that the animal cannot throw itself down. A saw 
with fine and sharp teeth and a stiff back is best for 
the cutting. A layer of absorbent cotton pressed on 
the cut surface will usually stop the flow of blood. In 
hot weather a coating of pine tar should be put on 
the cut. 
Sheep That Eat Wool. 
W. C., Hopewell, N. J .—Why do lambs eat wool ? In 
February I noticed my lambs pulling the wool from 
the hind legs of the ewes and eating it like hay. I 
had two grades of sheep—the Merino and a loose- 
wool kind ; but they appeared to prefer the dirty, 
greasy wool. They grew well until they weighed 
about 30 pounds, when they began to have fits. The 
first one died and when I cut it open I found the wool 
and short pieces of Timothy hay packed into the 
stomach. To the rest, when taken I gave castor oil 
—a teaspoonful to each, and if not better in an hour, 
I repeated the dose, and lost no more. The sheep 
were fed equal parts of cracked corn, wheat bran and 
whole oats and good Timothy hay, as there was no 
clover in this section last year, and salt they got 
when they wanted it. Why did they eat the wool ? 
Ans. —Wool eating is a habit acquired because of a 
depraved appetite from indigestion. Your treatment 
having been successful, you cannot do better than con¬ 
tinue it. The dose of oil can be safely doubled or 
even trebled if necessary. f. l. k. 
To Condition a Horse Out of Condition. 
W. W., Moreheadville, Pa.— I have a young horse 
that did not work to suit me last summer, and I put 
him into a trainer’s hands in fine condition. Soon 
afterwards he got the distemper, and, when I got him 
back, he was a mere shadow of his former self. When 
I let the trainer have him his wind was excellent; now 
he cannot draw a spring-tooth harrow 80 rods without 
sweating profusely, and the muscles of his forearm 
tremble. What can I do for him ? 
Ans. —Give him two tablespoonfuls of the following 
powders in his feed twice daily for a week or 16 days; 
then omit for a week and repeat as before : Sulphate 
of soda and powdered gentian, of each one pound, 
powdered nux vomica, one-fourth of a pound ; mix. 
F. L. K. 
Cause and Treatment of Lampas. 
G. H. W., Unville Cove, N. C.— Nearly every horse 
in this settlement has lampas this spring. We cure 
it by cutting the bars in the mouth. What is the 
cause ? If we knew the cause, could we not prevent 
the trouble ? 
Ans. —In young horses lampas is usually due to the 
irritation attendant on teething. It may disappear 
without treatment after the complete eruption of the 
incisor teeth, or it may continue for several months. 
The cutting of the bars to relieve the congestion by 
bleeding is the usual treatment in such cases. Feeding 
corn in the ear is practiced by some stockmen with 
good results. In older horses lampas is usually due to 
indigestion or other digestive disorder. And in addi¬ 
tion to the above treatment a dose of physic is usually 
given—as five to eight drams of best aloes, either in 
ball or solution. f. l. kilborne. 
When to Cut Rye Straw. 
A. H. 1., .lamesport, L. I.—Is it as popular as ever to 
cut rye before it seeds to sell the straw? If it is, when 
ought it to be cut ? 
Ans. —Farmers in our neighborhood who get the 
highest prices for their straw always cut so as to save 
the grain for thrashing. Do not let it get too ripe, but 
it is safe to let the grain form perfectly. 
WlLat Will Kill Grass ? 
J. W. C., Milton-on-Hudson, N. Y.— What is the best 
thing to put on a tennis court (dirt court) to kill the 
weeds and grass ? I have used strong brine and gone 
over the court with a hoe time and again, but they 
keep on growing. 
Ans. —We do not know of anything that would not 
cost more to apply than most persons would be willing 
to pay. Sulphate of iron would do it. So, too, would 
an inch layer of rock salt. 
Potash for a Western Orchard. 
H. C. K„ Kansas City, Mo.— I have a thrifty young 
orchard on land which had been heavily cropped with 
wheat for many years before I set out the trees. I 
can add nitrogen to the soil with an occasional crop 
of elover. I can get unleached wood ashes also. I 
think I ought to use thes* for potash, as I feel sure 
that when the trees begin to fruit heavily this will 
be the element most needed. With apples averaging 
30 cents a bushel in the orchard, what could I afford 
to pay per bushel for unleached wood ashes for 
potash as against commercial fertilizers to supply the 
same element ? 
Ans. —The “chemical” generally used to supply 
potash to orchards is muriate of potash, which con¬ 
tains about 50 per cent of potash. What is the price 
of muriate where you are ? In New York the retail 
price is not far from $45 per ton. As it is half potash 
by weight, you will see that the actual potash costs 
in this about 4 % cents a pound. The wood ashes 
probably contain about five per cent of potash. 
Weigh a bushel of the ashes and five per cent of the 
weight gives the amount of potash in it. What does 
that come to at 4% cents a pound ? That is the way 
to know whether the ashes are a cheaper source of 
potash than the muriate. You will need some form 
of phosphoric acid also with the potash. The wood 
ashes supply a small quantity of this too, which is one 
reason why large quantities of them will give better 
results than the muriate alone. If you find the 
muriate cheaper than the ashes you should use 
ground bone with the muriate—the usual proportion 
being about three parts by weight of bone to one of 
the muriate. The price of the apples will have little 
to do with the cost of the fertilizers. Feed the 
orchard well or don’t touch it. How do you know that 
potash is most needed ? 
