MARCH 13. 
MOORE’S RURAL NEW-YORKER: AN AGRICULTURAL AND EAMILY NEWSPAPER. 
87 
THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 
planting and management of the hotbed. 
Jn our last we gave directions for making a hot¬ 
bed. We now furnish information in regard to 
planting and management. We gave the same 
instructions last year, hut we have thousands of 
new readers, and those who read our previous ar¬ 
ticles on the Vegetable Garden will, no doubt, thank 
us for reminding them of these seasonable and 
important matters. 
Those who grow vegetables largely will do well 
to start a small frame early this month, as a seed¬ 
bed, and sow lettuce, tomatoes, celery, Ac., to be 
transplanted into other beds early in April, when 
the seed-bed can be sown with radishes. If the 
weather is very severe, cover nights, and in the 
days when very cold and cloudy, with straw, mats? 
old carpet, or anything that may be convenient. 
Give air during sunshine in the early part of the 
day. Those who raise vegetables for family use, 
in a small way, can do without this early bed. 
The hot-bed should be ready for planting cucum¬ 
bers by about the 20th of March, though it may be 
done until the 1st of April. Plant a hill under the 
center of each sash, raising the earth two or three 
inches higher than the rest of the bed, and putting 
eight or ten seeds in each hill. Plant the front 
with lettuce plants, or sow the seed; and sow celery 
and tomato seed at the back of the bed. The let¬ 
tuce in this bed will grow finely, and in a very 
short time they will be fit for use, especially if 
young plants were used, and in almost all gardens 
where lettuce is grown plenty of young plants can 
be found. We always sow a little seed in the fall, in 
some sheltered place in the garden, for this pur¬ 
pose. Before winter sets in, throw a few bushes 
and a little straw over them, and you will have excel¬ 
lent plants for the hot-bed. Cucumbers require so 
much more heat than tomatoes or celery, that it is 
best to transplant these, when about four inches 
high, to another and cooler frame, where they 
should be set thin, and allowed to harden, prepara¬ 
tory to being put out in the open ground. It will 
he best to make a new bed for them, with only 
about 18 inches of manure. Give plenty of air 
every fine day, or they will grow weak, and trans¬ 
plant into the open ground about the 10th of May. 
Many of the tomato plants will be in blossom at 
that time, and some protection should be in readi¬ 
ness for frosty nights. A light box with a pane of 
glass at the top is first-rate, and it should remain 
over them for a few days after transplanting, and 
on all unusually cold or windy days. 
When the cucumbers are up, give air, in the 
early part of the day, when the sun is shining, and 
as the plants grow, draw the earth to the stems, and 
when the second leaf has fairly started, any surplus 
plants can be transplanted to another bed, or thrown 
away, leaving only three of the strongest plants in 
the hill. By the time the vines begin to run the 
lettuce will be fit to pull, and the tomatoes must be 
removed, as before recommended. Then throw in 
three inches of good garden mold, and level off the 
bed. The frame will soon be filled with vines, and 
when this is so, throw earth over the old manure 
that formed the hot-bed, and rake it nicely, leaving 
the whole in the form of a graceful mound. Then 
raise the frame about six inches from the inner 
surface, by putting blocks under the corners, and 
let the vines run out nnder the frame. In about 
two weeks after this the frame may be taken away 
entirely, and you will not only have a beautiful 
green mound, but a fruitful one. The only care 
required now, is to water, and reap the reward of 
your labor, by picking the fruit. As soon as fruit 
begins to set, plenty of water must be supplied. 
The ground must be kept well moistened, and have 
an occasional thorough soaking. 
Onions are very successfully raised by sowing 
the seed quite thick in the hot-bed, giving them 
plenty of air, until about the 10th of April, when 
the frame can be taken away, and used for some 
other purpose. They should be transplanted into 
the open ground about the 10th of May. In this 
way the trouble of thinning and weeding is avoid¬ 
ed, they mature early, are large, and in every way 
as easily raised as the potato onion. 
Radishes require about the same treatment as 
onions, except transplanting. Too much heat will 
draw them, so that they will grow all to tops. The 
best variety for forcing is the Early Oval , a French 
variety; where this seed cannot be obtained the 
Early Ecarlet will answer. 
Where two frames are started at the same time, 
as suggested in our last number, which is probably 
the best plan for beginners, (they should be ready 
for the seed by about the 25th of March,) we would 
advise that nothing be planted in the frame with 
cucumbers but a little lettuce in the front In this 
situation it receives the drippings from the sash 
which is of great benefit to lettuce, but would be 
injurious to most other things. In the other frame 
we would plant lettuce in the front, tomatoes and 
celery at the back, and radishes in the center of 
the bed. Pepper, egg-plant seed, &c., can be sown, 
as desired. This frame will require plenty of air! 
epsecially as the time draws near for transplanting 
to the open ground. The plants will also require 
thinning out, and as the radishes and lettuce are 
drawn for the table, a few of these plants may be 
set out in the places thus left unoccupied, or seeds 
of Balsams and other annual flower? sown, so as to 
secure early flowers. We urge all our readers who 
can do so to make a small hot-bed. They will be 
astonished to find how little it costs, and how es¬ 
sential to a good vegetable garden. 
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Soil for Fkuit Trees in Illinois.—I have a 
Piece of land which I wish to plant with fruit trees. 
J I wish to know if the soil is well adapted to the 
object. As far as my rude knowledge extends, its 
composition is as follows:—First fifteen inches, 
vegetable loam; below this, a mixture of about half 
clay, a reddish eartii and some gravel for one foot, 
and underneath these two layers, clay for two feet 
This clay becomes perfectly pulverized and friable 
on exposure to air and weather. — Southern Illi¬ 
nois, March, 1858. 
Remarks. —Such a soil we should have no hesi¬ 
tation in planting with fruit trees here, after deep 
tillage. Thorough drainage would make such a 
soil all that could be desired. 
DAPHNE MEZEREON. 
The Daphne Mezereon, or Pink Mezereon, is one 
of our prettiest very early flowering shrubs, grow¬ 
ing to four feet high. The pink flowers appear be¬ 
fore the leaves, growing in clusters all around the 
shoots of the previous year, as shown in the en¬ 
graving, 
“ Though leafless, well attired, and thick beset 
With blushing wreaths, investing every spray.” 
The flowers are followed by beautiful brilliant 
scarlet berries, the size and appearance of which 
are shown in the lower part of the engraving, so that 
the plant is more showy when covered with berries 
than when in blossom. It flowers early in April, 
when flowers and particularly flowering shrubs are 
scarce, and as the flowers are sweet-scented, it is in 
all respects desirable, and should have a place in 
every collection of shrubs. The Daphne thrives 
well in any good dry soil, but dislikes a wet posi¬ 
tion, and will soon show its dislike by becoming 
stunted and mossy. The fall would be the best 
time for transplanting, hut those that plant in the 
spring should do so as early as possible. 
GENESEE VALLEY HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 
Perhaps a few of our readers may have thought 
it strange that for several weeks past we have not 
noticed the doings of the Genesee Valley Horticul¬ 
tural Society, especially as some of the Agricultural 
Journals in other places have contained communi¬ 
cations as well as editorial articles in relation to 
it. Ihe last number of Emery's Journal of Agri¬ 
culture, of Chicago, calls upon us so urgently to use 
our “able pen to support the failing society,” that 
we must respond at once, for the purpose of quiet¬ 
ing the fears of our friends abroad. The Genesee 
Valley Horticultural Society was established in 
its present form some fifteen years since, and du¬ 
ring that time it has not failed in making fine ex¬ 
hibitions each year, while some of them have not 
been excelled, if equalled in many respects, by any 
similar shows in the country. These exhibitions 
have not been as well attended as we could desire, 
and consequently the receipts have been compara¬ 
tively smalL At the close of the last year the 
Treasurer’s report exhibited an indebtedness of 
$200, an empty treasury. A motion was then made 
that the Society be disbanded, and an amendment 
to this, that operations, as far as exhibitions were 
concerned be suspended for one year. These mo 
tions were laid on the table, and a committee ap¬ 
pointed to devise ways and means for paying the 
indebtedness of the Society. The committee met, 
and in about thirty minutes had provided for all 
the debts, most of them being paid on the spot._ 
The committee reported the result of their labors, 
and the Society, in connection with the citizens 
present at the next meeting, resolved that the So¬ 
ciety should b» continued. A committee was ap¬ 
pointed to revise the Constitution and By-Laws, 
and the Society is now in a fair way to go on with 
increased energy and usefulness. We had no fears 
that this Society would be abandoned, or if aban¬ 
doned, that Rochester would be long without a 
good Horticultural Society. Some persons who 
are fond of appearing in print, have given more 
importance to this matter than was desirable or 
profitable, his is all the fire that caused so great 
a smoke, and now we hope our friends abroad will 
consider us safe, and give themselves no farther 
uneasiness on our account 
Transplanting Maples.—I saw a piece in your 
paper telling how to transplant evergreens, and as 
I have had better luck transplanting evergreens 
than 1 have maples, I would like to have you or 
some of your subscribers tell me through your 
columns the best time of the year, and the best way 
to set out maple trees.— James Fenton, Brant, 
Erie Co., N. V, March, 1858. 
Remarks. —Maple trees from the nurseries are 
transplanted as safely as can he desired. In pro¬ 
curing them from the woods they are generally 
taken from thickets where they are sheltered and 
shaded. Their removal from such a position is 
somewhat difficult, and generally they lose three- 
fourths of their roots in the operation. The al¬ 
most rootless tree is then planted in a hard soil 
entirely unsuited to the formation of roots, and 
where it is exposed to the sun and wind, and like a 
sensible tree, scarcely makes an effort to live, under 
such circumstances. If young maple trees are pro¬ 
cured from the open field, or where they are not 
crowded, taken up carefully, either spring or fall, 
the tops cut hack to compensate for the loss of 
roots, and well planted, there is no difficulty in 
making them live and prosper. 
HARDINESS OF THE ISABELLA GRAPE. 
Lds. Rural: — Allow me to say a few words upon 
the points raised by your Naples correspondent, 
E. A. McKay, in the Rural of February 27th. I 
am pleased to hear that the Isabella grape is so 
hardy with my friend, but as he wishes to know 
where this grape has been killed by cold weather, I 
will state that it is in Jackson, Washington Co., 
N. Y. We no more think of having the Isabella 
grape vine live through a winter and not kill down, 
than we think of planting Virginia eorn and having 
it ripen. We grow the Isabella grape in our yards 
and gardens, by laying the vines down in the win¬ 
ter. We have a number of varieties of grapes in 
this county that are as hardy here as a white oak 
tree, and the fruit of good size, ripening by the 15th 
of September. They are good table grapes and 
rich for wine.— II. Volintine, Jackson, N. Y, 
March, 1858. 
ISABELLA GRAPES. 
Eds. Rural:—E. A. McKay, of Naples, wants to 
know who has had any Isabella grape vines killed 
by the hard winters. I would inform him that 
almost all were killed in this section the first hard 
winter. A few that were on the south side of 
buildings lived through. Some large vines that 
were about three inches in diameter, were killed, 
hut most of them sprouted again and have borne a 
little, but the winters of 1856 and 1857 killed some, 
and we have had hut little good fruit since. I have 
some Connecticut Blue Grapes, native, that were 
hardy, and have borne well for four years. 
Our English cherry trees were much injured, 
some killed the first hard winter. Some of them 
were very thrifty and full of sap, and when the mer¬ 
cury was down 30 degrees below zero, they froze so 
hard that they burst open from the top of the snow 
to the first limbs. Some of our horse chestnuts 
were destroyed in the same way. — Amery Will- 
son, Marcellus, N. V, March, 1858. 
At a meeting of the Farmers’ Club, at New York, 
last week, Mr. Field said he had never seen any 
blight upon the pear tree, except where it was 
planted in a clay soil. lie spoke of the longevity 
of the pear tree; the peach tree scarcely comes to 
hearing well before it begins to die; the apple lasts 
long enough as a mossy, scraggy, unproductive 
tree, but its fruit-bearing life is short; the cherry 
tree dies in eight, ten or twelve years; but he could 
go to a hundred thousand pear trees in one county 
on Long Island, all in good bearing condition, 
which were planted before the revolution.— Ex. 
Remarks.— The New York Farmers' Club is a 
wonderful institution. New, and strange, and ridic¬ 
ulous statements are freely made, and apparently 
equally well received. That pear trees only blight 
on a clay soil is as far from the truth as a statement 
can he. The pear is truly a long-lived tree, but it is 
nonsense to say that the cherry tree dies in eight, 
ten or twelve years. We know them more than 
forty years old, line and thrifty. We planted cherry 
trees ten years ago that are not yet come into full 
bearing. 
Horticultural Premiums in Indiana. —We arc 
indebted to W. H. Loomis, of Fort Wayne, Indiana, 
for the Premium List of the Indiana State Agricul¬ 
tural Society, for 1858. The premiums offered on 
fruits and flowers are liberal, amounting to over 
S600. The next Fair of the Society is to he held at 
Indianapolis, the first week in October. 
Messrs. Editors: —In your paper of the 27th 
ulk, Mr. McKay asks if it is indeed true that any 
body’s grape vines suffer from exposure in winter. 
He calls for testimony. I venture to speak for my¬ 
self and several neighbors, and say that in this 
(Oneida) county, Isabella grape vines left on the 
trellis during winter, are killed to the ground about 
every third season, and the buds are injured, more 
or less, every year. Fruit growers here, who wish 
to make sure of an annual crop of grapes, always 
lay their vines on the ground at the approach of 
winter, and throw over them a little litter of some 
kind. With me, the refuse primings of the vines, 
or old pea brush and a board or two, to keep the 
whole fiat on the ground, answers every purpose. 
And now that I have replied to his question, I 
beg leave to ask one or two of him. 
1. Can you tell why it is that the best clusters 
are uniformly found above the middle portion of 
the vine? My trellises are 7 feet high, but T can¬ 
not get really good grapes within three feet of the 
ground. 
2. Will you give us, in detail, your method of 
summer pruning? 
3. In preparing a large and deep hole, last spring, 
for a Rebecca grape vine, it so happened that the 
soil was not sufficiently trodden down, before the 
vine was planted. During the summer, it settled 
so that the surface is now six inches below the soil 
of the surrounding garden. Will it answer to fill 
up that hole above the roots of the grape, or had 
I better plant anew? 
One who produces such grapes as Mr. McKay 
annually sends to market, will speak with authority. 
Clinton, N. Y., Feb., 1858. O. 
SMALL FRUITS ON THE PRAIRIES. 
The small fruits may he grown in great abun¬ 
dance. But little time need elapse between the 
settlement and the production of an abundance of 
strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, currants and 
gooseberries. These help to fill up the interim 
until apples and other fruits can he grown. 
Raspberries and strawberries are most readily 
produced,— native plants for the production of 
black raspberries can be very easily obtained from 
any grove where they seem to produce but mea¬ 
grely, but when transplanted and cultivated hear 
liberally of much improved fruit. Their cultiva¬ 
tion is very simple and needs hut the occasional 
mellowing of the surface and destruction of the 
prairie sward. The cultivation of few fruits meets 
with a more liberal reward than the black rasp¬ 
berry. The soil of the prairie is unequaied for 
strawberries, and they scarcely need cultivation 
after setting in a mellow soil in a proper manner as 
to sex and varieties. Wo never saw elsewhere 
such beds of this luscious fruit. Currants and 
gooseberries grow well and are not affected by the 
winter as the wood of the apple, peach and cherry 
is. The first attention of the settler should be 
given to the small fruits. Jno. Sanfield. 
I.pg Centre, Lee Co., Ill:, Feb., 1858. 
The Lawrence Pear as a Dwarf. — In most of 
the nurserymen’s catalogues, and in some of the 
fruit books, it is stated that the Lawrence Pear is a 
good grower, both on the pear and quince root, 
while in your article in the last number of the 
Rural, you do not recommend it for the quince, 
and say that it is not much cultivated as a dwarf. 
In the same number a correspondent intimates that 
it will not grow on the quince, and I see it is not in 
the list recommended by the American l’omologi- 
cal Society for general cultivation on quince root. 
Please tell us facts in the case. —W., Greece, N. Y., 
March, 1858. 
Remarks. —What will, and what will not, succeed 
on the quince, we have to learn by experience. At 
first it was thought by nurserymen and others, that 
the Lawrence would do well as a dwarf, judging 
from appearances. Farther experience proved that 
like the Bartlett, the wood of this pear did not form 
a perfect union with the wood of the quince, and 
tlve consequence was a feeble growth, and a short¬ 
lived tree, unless it received extraordinary culture, 
abundance of manure, arid close pruning. It was 
also found that this variety made a very pretty tree 
on its own roots, and came into hearing early, so 
that there was no great necessity for growing dwarf 
trees. In the spring of 1850 we planted this sort 
on the quince, and they did very well, bearing fruit 
for two seasons, when we disposed of the place 
where they were planted. Afterwards we planted 
standards, and since that time have not seen much 
of this pear on the quince. In the newly printed 
catalogues it is not recommended as a dwarf, and 
nurserymen have ceased to cultivate it as such. We 
think, however, we could, with suitable culture, suc¬ 
ceed both with the Bartlett and Lawrence as dwarfs. 
Black-Eyed Peas, Apple Seeds, Ac.—Will you, 
or some of the numerous readers of the Rural, teli 
me the difference between Black-Eyed Peas and 
other varieties? Will apple and pear seeds grow 
after beiDg kept dry for a year or more? — b. N. 
Cadwell, Loomisville, Mich., March, 1858. 
Remarks. —The Black-Eyed Marrowfat is the only 
popular black-eyed variety. It is larger and bet¬ 
ter than the common Marrowfat, and is like it in 
habit. Apple and pear seeds will grow after such a 
dry spell, but not as well as if planted before dry¬ 
ing. Water should he poured upon them, and 
they should remain in soak for about six hours.— 
Then place them in moist sand until the time for 
planting. 
Apples Rotting on the Trees.—I would inquire 
the cause why my Winter Vandeveres rot on the 
trees, and the remedy. I have about 100 bushels 
each year, most of which rot before coming to ma¬ 
turity. They commence rotting about the first of 
September, and rot the most rapidly in wet or fog¬ 
gy weather. I am unable to discover any insect in 
the apple. The trees are old, but thiifty, and well 
pruned each spring. Any information on the above 
will be thankfully received by— Henry Watts 
Northampton, Pa., Feb., 1858. 
Remarks.— We cannot give a specific for this 
evil. Will not some of our readers give us their 
experience on this point? 
California Fruit. — The orange crop of Los 
Angelos will amount this year to 170,000, and are 
sold on the ground at$42 per thousand. The trees 
commence bearing at eight years of age, and will 
produce $1,000 worth of fruit to the acre. The 
same correspondent says he has seen apples from 
an orchard in Sonora of half growth, being the 
second crop for the year. At Sonora, strawberries 
ripened in the open air at Christmas. 
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TO HOUSEWIVES AND HOUSEMAIDS. 
In no department of life, perhaps, will the old 
adage “a stitch in time saves nine,” apply with 
more force than in housekeeping. To he a thor¬ 
oughly good housekeeper, a proper economy of 
time is a valuable consideration, and the heedless, 
careless manner in which many women and girls 
do their work, ever has, and ever will make them 
complete slaves to kitchen drudgery. 
Housework is indeed a never-ending and con¬ 
stantly recurring labor. It is, day after day and 
over and over again, the same dull round of cook¬ 
ing, cleaning, and putting to rights; but there is a 
great difference in the manner of doing this, which 
makes all the misery, or the happiness, often, of a 
household. If you let things that need care or at¬ 
tention to-day, slip along a week or so, or hurry 
over a piece of work, not half doing it, you will 
he constantly in confusion, your labor will accu¬ 
mulate and you will be liable to be ill-tempered and 
discouraged. Now, as a general thing, in private 
families, unless sickness interrupt, work may go on 
orderly, quietly, and expeditiously. But in order 
to do this, a woman needs experience, and needs 
also a good, neat, prompt girl, that is, if she keeps 
any hired help. 
Every piece of work that is done, do it well, 
thoroughly, neatly. First of all, for housework, 
you need a convenient, tidy dress. Never slop 
around in skirts dragging on the floor, nor with 
sleeves dabbling in the water, nor withoutan apron 
—not a square of caiico, but a good, wide, sub¬ 
stantial apron—that will protect your dress nearly, 
or quite to the bottom, in front. These are easily 
washed and ironed, and will save you the necessity 
of washing and doing up a dress every week.— 
When you have mixing to do—bread, pies, cake, 
Ac., always get your materials together before you 
get your hands in the flour. Prepare your table or 
shelf, and make room to set down and place con¬ 
veniently, such articles as you need for the occa¬ 
sion. Generally, girls begin to mix, and then have 
to run for the moulding board, the tins, the sugar, 
Ac., Ac., leaving prints of dough and flour all over 
everything, which must he cleaned off afterward. 
Make it a rule never to leave your kneading bowl 
or pan, covered with paste. It is wasteful and 
slovenly in the extreme. Have your sieve by you, 
and sift the crumbs of dough from the flour, and . 
knead them in your paste. Scrape the kneading 
board and tray, while the dough is soft, and you 
will seldom have occasion to wash them. 
When you have dishes to wash, do not begin 
while your dishes are scattered here and there.— 
First pick up and pile together, as closely as may 
be, all the articles you wish to wash, washing your 
cleanest first. And if you would preserve your 
spoons from scratches and bruises, never pile them 
carelessly among your knives or dishes. It is no 
extra trouble to keep silver by itself, washing it 
first, and wiping it on a clean, dry cloth. It is all 
in habit, and once you form a habit of order, you 
will see how much easier it is to do your work pro¬ 
perly. When you take covers oil’ from things, put 
them on again. Nothing is so annoying to a good 
housewife, as to find the covers always left off 
while the flies and dust are making sad havoc with 
the sugar, or, no matter what—if there is a cover 
to it, keep it on. I lave a place for everything, and 
when you are done with it, put it back again. 
You will always find that work well done, will 
last longer, and hence the reason why a neat, sys¬ 
tematic housewife, is not, necessarily confined to 
the kitchen. But this is a subject which would 
admit of a great variety of suggestions and re¬ 
marks, and mine may be already too long for a news¬ 
paper article. These are offered, not in a dictato¬ 
rial spirit, but are the result of considerable expe¬ 
rience, and with a desire to see housekeeping more 
generally understood. A Farmer’s Wife. 
Westfield, N. Y., 1858. 
Preserving Hams and Sausage Meat. —Cut the 
ham in slices as for cooking, taking off the rind; 
let it be of the temperature of the air in a well- 
warmed room, bo that it will pack tightly, then 
pack in stone crocks, and seal by pouring over it, 
to the depth of one-lialf inch or more, melted lard. 
Sausage meat is to be prepared as usual, warmed, 
packed into the crocks, and sealed up in the same 
manner as for ham. The meat must be kept from 
freezing, or the crocks will be broken by the ex¬ 
pansion. Set the crocks on the cellar bottom, and 
the meat will keep fresh and fine through the 
entire summer. If the lard shrinks away from the 
sides of the crock in cooling, the aperture must he 
filled up with heated lard. When wanted for use 
the sausage is cut out in slices, with a sharp pointed 
knife.—M. L. C., Chester, Dodge Co., 11 'is. 
Cookies.—Cracker I’ie.—I n some of your back 
numbers I noticed several recipes for making 
cookies, none of which I like as well as this:_Put 
two tablespoons bntter-milk, and two of butter in 
a cup, fill witli sugar. One egg, one-half teaspoon 
saleratus, one teaspoon caraway seed. 
Another recipe for the benefit of those who are 
deprived of apples, as we western people are: 
Cracker Pie. —To three cups water, add two 
cups sugar; two teaspoons tartaric acid; five table¬ 
spoons crackers, rolled fine. Flavor with lemon, 
and season as apple pie. This makes two pies.— 
This also serves as a substitute for apples in mince 
pies.— Mbs. A. C. Lx Due, Wayne, Wis., 1858. 
Good Temper and Good Cooking. — A corres¬ 
pondent of the Ohio Cultivator has a fancy that the 
quality of a meal depends very much upon the 
state of the cook’s temper. Hear him:—“It is 
astonishing how much the cheerfulness of a wife 
contributes to the happiness of home. We re¬ 
member hearing a husband say that he could gauge 
the temper of his wife by the quality of her cook¬ 
ing; good tempereven influenced the seasoning of 
her soups, and the lightness and delicacy of her 
pastry. When ill-tern per pervades, the pepper is 
dashed in as a cloud, percbance the top of the 
pepper box is included, as a kind of diminutive 
thunderbolt; the saltisalLin lumps, and the spices 
seem to betake themselvjSPall to one spot in the 
puddings, as if dreading the frowning face above 
them. If there he a husband who could abuse the 
smiles of a really good-tempered wife, we should 
like to look at him! Among the elements of 
domestic happiness, the amiability of the wife and 
mother, is of the utmost importance; it is one of 
the best securities for the happiness of home.” 
