AFRIL 17 
MOORE’S RURAL NEW-YORKER: AN AGRICULTURAL AND FAMILY NEWSPAPER 
127 
PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS. 
Messrs. Editors. —Tn your last number you de¬ 
scribed the length of a grape cutting, and in a 
previous number you discouraged the attempt to 
grow fruit trees from cuttings. Now, I would like 
to know how to prepare cuttings of the different 
kinds of plants and fruits that can be propagated 
in that manner? Also, the best time for preparing, 
planting, and all other necessary information.—S. 
M., Wyoming Co., N. Y., 1858. 
Remarks. —We-should be well pleased to answer 
every inquiry in a thorough manner, but to do so 
we would have to write a complete article on every 
subject in regard to which any of our readers de¬ 
sired information. This, it will be seen at once, 
we could not do, as in many numbers of the Rurai. 
we answer more than a dozen inquiries, on as many 
different subjects. Many of these, too, require im¬ 
mediate answers to be of any present value, as the 
season when the knowledge required is to be used 
is fast passing away. We will, however, endeavor 
to give all needed information on Propagation by 
Cuttings, and the facts presented, though rather late 
for the present season, will be valuable for future 
reference. Propagation by cuttings consists in 
causing a shoot to grow by detaching it from the 
parent tree and planting it in the ground, at the 
proper season and under favorable circumstances 
for the development of roots. All fruit trees may 
be grown from cuttings, but only a very few grow 
with sufficient ease to make it desirable or profita¬ 
ble to propagate them in this way. The gooseber¬ 
ry, currant, vine and quince, and only these of our 
common fruits, are generally grown in this way. 
A cutting is a shoot or part of a shoot, and gen¬ 
erally of one season’s growth. A foot is the prop¬ 
er length for cuttings, for ordinary out-door culture, 
though under some circumstances a single eye or 
joint is used. We give an engraving, which we 
have altered from Barry's Fruit Hook, to suit our 
purpose as well as our columns, showing the dif¬ 
ferent forms of cuttings as well as the manner of 
planting. The wood should be as stout and ma¬ 
ture as possible, and should be cut close and 
smooth to a bud at both ends, as seen in fig. 1.— 
Cuttings, taken off closely to the old wood, with 
the base attached, as in fig. 2, are more certain to 
grow than when cut at any point above, and in 
the quince an inch or two of the old wood left at¬ 
tached renders success more certain. The philoso¬ 
phy of the matter is that the descending wood¬ 
forming sap, forces out roots at the lower end of 
the ;-hoot, and thus the cutting becomes a new plant 
The more buds that can be got around the base 
of a cutting the better, for these buds, as soon as 
they become active, send down new matter for the 
formation of roots. 
Scarce varieties of grapes are propagated by 
eyes having about two inches of wood attached, as 
seen in fig. 4, and success is supposed by many to 
be more certain where the joint is halved before 
planting, as shown in fig. 5. When this mode is 
adopted it is usual to plant the eyes about half an 
inch deep in light soil in a hot-bed, or in pots in a 
propagating house. 
Cuttings should be inserted so deep that only 
two buds will be above the surface of the soil, and 
in the vine only one. Vine cuttings it is well to 
make long, but they need not be set upright so as 
to be out of the reach of beat and air, but sloping, 
as we have endeavored to show in fig. 3. They 
may be set much more sloping than we have been 
able to exhibit in the engraving, from lack of 
room. 
Cuttings may be made any time during the fall 
or early winter. It should always be done before 
the buds begin to swell. A soil for cuttings should 
be mellow and warm, yet sufficiently compact to 
retain moisture. Those who try to grow them in 
a hard, baking, compact soil, or one low and wet, 
or dry and sandy, will assuredly fail. 
Very early in the spring is the best time, all 
things considered, to plant cuttings. If it is de¬ 
layed until late, the warm weather starts the leaves 
before sufficient roots are formed to supply the 
demand they malm for sustenance, and the cutting 
dries and perishes. Those who grow only a few 
cuttings could shade them, or spread saw-dust 
about them to preserve an even temperature. 
Cuttings made in the fall may be buried out of 
doors in a pit where the water will not stand. A 
mound of earth should be made over the pit to 
throw off the water. Particular attention should 
given to cuttings after planting to keep the weeds 
destroyed and the ground in a mellow condition. 
Training TriE Vine.— In the Rural of Feb. 27th, 
Mr. E. A. McKay makes some very just remarks 
relative to the cultivation of the Isabella Grape. 
Yet, had he been more definite and explicit the 
value of his article weuld have been very much 
enhanced. He says they should be planted and 
trained “wide and high.” Now, these are simply 
relative terms, and in the present state of vine- 
culture in this country, mean anything, or nothing. 
Will M(\ McKay please to give the readers of the 
Rural the benefit of his “fifteen years experience” 
by telling us how far apart the Isabella Grape 
snould be planted, and how high-trained to secure 
the best results, and very much oblige at least one 
—Lover op Fruit. 
Remarks. —Mr. McKay gave hi3 practice in the 
Rural of last year. He recommended planting 
the vines from twelve to sixteen feet apart, and al¬ 
lows them to grow about seven feet high. 
FOREIGN NOTICES. 
British Pomologicai. Society.— At the winter 
meeting of the British Pomologicai Society, all the 
pears exhibited were found very deficient in flavor, 
except Knight's Monarch. The last season was 
supposed to be very unfavorable to the full devel¬ 
opment of this fruit 
Growing Hyacinths in Moss. —A writer in the 
Cottage Gardener says:—“I select the darkest glas¬ 
ses, and, instead of filling them with water, fill 
them with moss. I keep on adding a little water 
to prevent the moss getting dry. The bulb retains 
its position, and blooms as well as when grown in 
the best soils.” 
An American Flour Barrel Destroyed by 
Insects. —At the January meeting of the London 
Entomological Society, Mr. Douglas exhibited a 
portion of an oak flour barrel, manufactured in 
America, which had been attacked and rendered 
useless by a small beetle belonging to the family 
Dostrechidm. It had eaten the soft parallel layers 
of the wood, making a number of rows of small 
holes. 
British Horticultural Society. —At a meeting 
of this Society, held March 2d, Prince Albert was 
elected President, and Dr. Lindi.ey, Secretary. A 
fine exhibition of flowers was made. Among the 
fruit we notice hot-house grapes, of many varieties, 
strawberries, pine apples and pears. The vegeta¬ 
bles consisted principally of potatoes, and among 
them an American sort, called American Seedling, 
is said to be “ a capital variety, and a very heavy 
cropper.” 
National Flower Shows. —The extent to which 
the love of flowers is carried in England, is very 
plainly shown by the various national flower shows 
advertised in the public papers. Should we pro¬ 
pose a National Tulip Shawm this country, people 
would set us down as crazy, and yet a national 
show of Tulips, and Pansies, is expected in Eng¬ 
land, as a matter of course. The Royal and National 
Tulip Shows are to be held this year at Sheffield, on 
the 27th of May, and a National Pansy Show on the 
same day at the same town. The National Carna¬ 
tion and Picolee Society’s Exhibition is to be held 
at Moira, and the National Rose Show at London 
on July 1st. 
A New Vegetable. —Mr. Turner, of the Royal 
Nurseries, Slough, has introduced to the world, 
through the British Horticultural Society, and by 
other means, a new vegetable, which he calls Cot¬ 
tager's Kale. Dr. Lindi.ey thus speaks of it:— 
“ Perhaps it may be best described as a very fine 
Brussels Sprout, the sprouts of which will not 
heart. From the root to the very top of a stout 
stem three feet high it was crowded with little 
open cabbages, of a purplish tint and delicate 
texture. When cooked we found it unsurpassed 
for sweetness, being quite free from the bitterish 
tastej which is apt to accompany the Brussels 
Sprouts. The specimens before the meeting suffi¬ 
ciently showed that it added to its good qualities 
that of excessive productiveness. This excellent 
vegetable originated some years since in the 
gardens of Sherburn Castle, Oxfordshire, the prin¬ 
cipal residence of the Earl of Macclesfield — its 
parents being the Brussels Sprouts and one of the 
ordinary varieties of Kale. Mr. Prior, the very 
intelligent and clever gardener at Midgham Park, 
obtained some of the seeds thus produced, the pro¬ 
duce of which he fertilized with the old Purple 
Broccoli, and thus obtained what has been very 
aptly named the ‘ Cottager’s Kale.’ It has been 
grown by Mr. Prior for several years, and its qual¬ 
ities have been thoroughly tested both at Midgham 
Park"and at the Royal Nursery, Slough, where it 
ha3 also been grown extensively—and found not 
only to be by far the most tender of all the greens, 
and of exquisite flavor; but to possess the collat¬ 
eral advantages of being much more productive 
than any other winter green, and perfectly hardy 
The small specimens which, for convenience of 
transit, were chosen for sending to the recent ex¬ 
hibition at the rooms of the Horticultural Society, 
scarcely conveyed an idea of the appearance of the 
plant when fairly grown; it should be seen in its 
vigor, some four feet high, and covering an equal 
space, clothed to the ground with its immense 
produce of rosette-like shoots of an agreeable 
bluish tint, which, when boiled, assume a still more 
agreeable green. The seed should be sown towards 
the end of March, for .planting out early in a deep 
and rich soil, and ample space must be allowed for 
the plants to develop themselves.” 
HOG MANURE FOR THE BORER 
Eds. Rural:— I have some 250 young apple and 
peach trees. In the summers of 1854, >65, and ’56, 
the peach or apple tree borer killed a number of 
my trees, and damaged others badly. In the spring 
of ’56, after digging out all the borers I could find, 
I drew the manure from my hog pen (which was in 
a snug pile, so that the boys thought it had accu- 
mulated instead of loseing its ammonia,) and put it 
closely around my trees — about a peck to a tree. 
Last spring I drew my hog manure again around 
trees, and in the summer I could not find one borer. 
Now, upon mature deliberation, I have come to 
the conclusion, that the stench of the manure kept 
the insect or beetle away, which deposits the eggs 
in the trees. The manure has been a great help to 
the trees, besides keeping away the beetle._N. Bee- 
man, South Bristol, Ontario Co., N. Y, 1858. 
Exchange of Scions, Ac. —I would like to make 
a proposition through your paper. Whoever will 
send me two scions each, of two or more good 
kinds of apples, not to be had everywhere, with 
name, season, qualities, Ac., I will return the favor 
by return of mail. I would like to ask the four 
best kinds of pears for market, both on pear and 
quince stocks, in southern Oneida county._C. H. 
Curtis. 
Remarks. — Mr. C. should have given his Post- 
Office address. Without this, we fear the scions 
would not reach him. On quince stock you might 
plant Louise Bonne de Jersey, Duchess de Angou- 
leme, Beurre DieJ, and Vicar of Winkfield. On 
pear, Bartlett, Louise Bonne de Jersey, Flemish 
Beauty, and Lawrence. These will be good market 
sorts, but we might increase the list with other 
kind3 that by most cultivators would be considered 
just a3 good. 
POMOLOGICAI GOSSIP. 
Eds. Rural: —My regret is that I have not been 
a subscriber from your first issue. Here, on this 
Alpine summit, (we are over eight hundred feet 
above Syracuse,) I have determined to raise some 
fruit, and among the rest, grapes. If I had known 
three years ago what I now do, I should have saved 
nearly as many years in my labors to raise grapes. 
I am more indebted to the Rural than all other 
sources, for valuable practical hints on this subject 
I see it is generally conceded that the Isabella 
grape will not bear close pruning or confinement. 
I do not remember to have seen anything quite so 
specific as I desire. Can I succeed if I attempt to 
confine it upon a trellis six by seven, or seven feet 
square? And which method of pruning, the “spur" 
or “renewal," would be best adapted to success, if 
I attempt to confine it upon so small a trellis? I 
do not expect to ripen either the Isabella or Cataw¬ 
ba, without protection against the early frosts of 
fall. I design to procure the Diana, Rebecca and 
Delaware this spring. Do you know how small a 
trellis these would succeed upon? I have already 
grown the Isabella, Catawba, Clinton, Northern 
Muscadine, (Shaker Seedling,) and several other 
varities, with and without names, most of which 
are probably worthless. 
The winters of ’56 and ’57 made serious havoc 
with the labors of young fruit-growers in this sec¬ 
tion,—a good many are half discouraged. The 
thermometer went down both winters to 36 and 37° 
below zero. Nearly all the tender varieties of 
cherries were destroyed, and many pears, and even 
apples. You have a correspondent who has sug¬ 
gested protecting the trunks of cherry trees during 
winter. I have great confidence in it I did so 
with all my trees the past winter, and though the 
thermometer sank to 26 and 27° on two or three 
occasions, I do not look for any injury, not even 
to those that were half killed by the two previous 
winters. Indeed, I expect to save a Yellow Spanish, 
a Black Tartarian, besides a Gov. Wood cherry, 
and several other varieties, that were left with so 
little vitality in [the spring of ’57, that they made 
during last summer scarcely any new wood. 1 
bound the trunks (the tree# are from two to four 
years of age,) with straw, and in the case of the 
Yellow Spanish, beipg very desirous of saving it, 
extended the covering to the larger limbs. It took, 
to prepare all my trees, some 60 and over, a day 
and a half—less time than one would spend will¬ 
ingly, in the spring, to doctor and save one favorite 
tree.—S. S. A., Hamilton, Mad. Co-, N. Y., 1858. 
Remarks. —Nothing certainly is to be gained by 
growing our native grapes on trellises as small as 
six or seven feet each way. Six feet high by 
twelve feet wide, is as small as we would make 
them. This would give but six feet for each main 
horizontal branch, and we consider this quite little 
enough. The first year after planting, train two 
branches horizontally along the bottom of the trellis 
as far as it extends, as shown in the engiaving, n, d. 
The second year train up three shoots from each 
horizontal branch, at as near equal distances as 
possible, two of which are shown in the engraving, 
a, a. The third year rub off all shoots that push 
from the horizontal branches, except six, one be¬ 
tween each of the two perpendicular shoots of the 
previous year, b, b in engraving, and train these up 
like those of last year. This year the first upright 
branches will bear fruit, after which they should 
be cutback to the horizontal branch,and the bear¬ 
ing shoots for the fourth year will start from those 
trained upright the last season. This cutting back 
must be repeated every year. This, we know, is 
forming a bearing vine in a short time, but it can 
be done if the soil is rich, deep, and well cultivated. 
Many cultivators do not start the main horizontal 
branches until the second year, and allow one 
branch to grow the first season, which is then cut 
back to two buds, and these are then made to form 
the main arms. 
SOUTHERN ILLINOIS FOE FRUIT. 
Eds. Rural:—As Southern Illinois is not as well 
known abroad as the Northern and Central parts 
of the State, perhaps a sketch of its topograph}-, 
and some other matters, may interest some of your 
many rural readers, especially those intending to 
come westward for the purpose of growing fruit 
There are no prairies in the extreme south, the 
first few small ones north of Cairo being in Wil¬ 
liamson and the north part of Jackson counties. 
The woodland here, however, is much more easily 
cleared than the heavy pine and hemlock forests 
of New York, my native State. The timber here 
is mostly oak, intermingled with poplar, hickory, 
black walnut, Ac. The face of the country is high 
and rolling, with the exceptions of the “ bottoms” 
bordering the large streams of water. Some of 
the best farms in the State, as regards fertility, are 
found on these bottoms; but the uplands com¬ 
prise a large portion of “ Egypt,” two-thirds per¬ 
haps, and are comparatively free from that pest of 
the bottoms, viz: mosquitoes. Ague does not pre¬ 
vail to any greater extent here than in Central and 
Northern Illinois. The soil and climate here seem 
to be admirably adapted to fruit growing. I can 
safely say that thousands of bushels of peaches were 
shipped last fall from this station, (Jonesboro,) and 
others a little north and south of this. The bearing 
peach trees here are all seedlings, which have been 
the only kinds planted by the old residents, and 
poorly cared for at that. The first premiums for 
“white wheat” (winter) have been awarded to 
“Egypt” for two successive years, 1856-7, and this 
year she bore oil'the palm at the State Fair, for the 
largest ears of corn, the tallest Chinese cane, and 
the biggest sweet potatoes, which is a convincing 
proof that the soil of “Egypt” is equal to any in 
the Mississippi valley. This portion of our “Garden 
State ” deserves serious attention at the hands of 
emigrants from the older States. Tlenty of land 
to be had at moderate prices; a climate milder 
than can be found elsewhere in the free States; 
accessible by Railroad to nearly every large town 
in the northwest, it presents unparalleled induce¬ 
ments to the fruit grower as regards certainty of 
crops, good prices, Ac. Gardening also promises 
to be the business for money making. We can 
have tomatoes, peas, Ac., from three to six weeks 
earlier here than at Chicago. Lastseason tomatoes 
raised here sold in Chicago as high as $7 per box 
(3 pecks),—early apples, mostly seedlings, in the 
latter part of July, $7 per barrel. 
Before closing this rambling sketch, I wish to 
mention the fact that a Nursery is much needed 
here, to accommodate the increased interest being 
manifested for fruit growing. We have no Nursery 
in Southern Illinois, andagood one established by 
a skillful horticulturist would pay well. Is there 
not some reader of the Ritual skilled in the busi¬ 
ness, who will establish a Nursery among us ? 
Jonesboro, Union Co., Ill., 1858. A. B. 
EASTERN APPLES AT THE WEST. 
We have often thought that many Western fruit 
growers, without sufficient experience, and with 
only a single and perhaps exceptional example, 
have been ready to condemn our best Eastern 
varieties as unsuited to the West Not, however, 
having any experience on this question, and our 
observations at the West being confined to one 
season, we have been anxious to lay before our 
readers all accessible information, even if not as 
reliable as we could desire. A skillful cultivator of 
Maysville, Kentucky, writes to the Country Gente- 
man that “Western Nurserymen and fruit growers 
have been too hasty in denouncing promiscuously 
Eastern apples,” and that G. Hami.ong, of German¬ 
town, in that State, informs him that “outof2C0 
varieties which he has tested, most of them of 
Western and Southern orign, he has not been able 
to discover any equal to such apples as Esopus 
Spitzenberg, Westfield, Seek-no-further, Swaar, and 
Baldwin in their season. Such sorts ns Rome 
Beauty, Smith’s, Milam, Rawle’s Janet, Ac, are very 
valuable as market fruits, being very productive, 
large and showy; but it will not do to bring them 
to the table on the same day as the Swaar, Spitzen- 
burgb, Ac.” 
Ex-Governor Bebb, formerly of Ohio, but who 
now lives 100 miles west of Chicago, and has 500 
apple trees in his orchards, besides 30,000 in nursery 
rows, gives his experience in the Cincirmains, in 
regard to the hardiness of varieties the two severe 
winters previous to the last. The temperature for 
two months each winter ranged below zero, often 
25° and once 27° below. 
Tubes I erfectly Hardy. — Summer. — Sweet 
Paradise, William’s Favorite, Early Harvest, Sweet 
June, American Summer Pearmain, Carolina June. 
Fall —Keswick Codlin, Porter, Trenton Early 
Early Pennock, Fall Orange, Rosseau Autumn’ 
Holland Pippin, Summer Queen, Siberian Crab—’’ 
alt sorts. 
Winter .—Red Romanite, Red Calville, Pomme 
Gris, Red Canada, Westfield Seek-no-further, Eng¬ 
lish Golden Russet, American Golden Russet, Yel¬ 
low Bellefleur, Wine Sap, Fallenwalder, Tallman’s 
Sweet, Rawle’s Janet, Roman Stem, Yellow Inges- 
trie, Pennock Red, Barret Russet, Gloria Mundi 
Twenty-ounce, Lady Apple. 
Half-Hardy, or Tender — Much Injured or 
Killed.— Summer .—Red Astraclian, Hocking,. 
Full. —Maiden’s Rlush, Itambo, Fall Pippim 
Winter .—Northern Spy, Domine, Esopus Spitzen- 
berg, Newtown Spitzenberg, Fameuse, Baldwin 
Fulton, W. W. Pearmain, Canada Reinette, Milam’ 
White Bellefleur, Priestly, Poughkeepsie Russet. ’ 
Guano Water for the Garden.— I have re¬ 
ceived the numbers of the Rural for the quarter 
ending April 1st, and 1 think it will pay me to have 
a little farther acquaintance with it. Enclosed 
therefore, yon will find the funds. I have just com¬ 
menced keeping-house, and have got a small garden 
to try my skill in husbandry in. Being a stranger 
to the science, L think a g»od paper, will he the 
best overseer for me to have, especially as I like to 
have my own way, and the paper is a boss that I can 
easily pocket, and put out of sight. What would 
be the effects of guano water on the different kind 
of vegetables, and how strong a mixture would 
garden or “sweet” com stand? Does the seed 
corn need any soaking or preparation to protect it 
from worms, or crows, or anything of that sort?— 
Perhaps I may give you some of my experience 
by-and-by, in garden culture.—J. H. M., Mystic 
River, Conn., 1858. 
Remarks. —Guano is a dangerous manure in the 
hands of the novice, and mischief is often done 
with it. Our practice is to put one pound in a 
half-barrel, (16 gallons,) and then fill it up with 
water. After this is used prettylow, wo fill up with 
water again, and add another pound of guano. 
The effect of this guano water on all vegetables is 
extraordinary. The crows will not he apt to trouble 
your “ small garden," we think. Endeavor always 
to get a good, strong, rapid growth of vegetables, 
and they are speedily out of the way of insects and 
worms. 
Planting Apple Trees.—W ill you, or some of 
your numerous readers, please inform me through 
your paper, the best way and time to plant apple 
trees that have been buried the past winter?_B. 
V.W., Brooklyn, Wis., 1858. 
Remarks. —Plant as early in the spring as the 
ground can be got ready. Prune oil' carefully all 
bruised and broken roots, shorten in the limbs to 
balance the necessary loss of root in removaL This 
is greater than would be supposed by those who 
have not had experience, as many of the delicate 
fibrous roots, though showing no particular signs 
of injury, will never recover. Plant well, stake, 
give a good mulching, and then you may feel that 
you have done your whole duty. 
Tiie Garden; a Pocket Manual of Practical 
Horticulture.— This is a part of the title of a 
hand-book on gardening, containg 166 pages, pub¬ 
lished by Fowler A Wells, N. Y., and sold at 58 
cents in cloth, or three shillings in paper. Like all 
books from this house, it is very neatly got up, and 
the author, or compiler, has taken a good deal of 
pains to collect for its pages a store of valuable 
information, and has succeeded in making a very 
useful hand-book for the farmer and amateur._ 
Some things are open to criticism, showing a lack 
of experience, but on the whole, we like the work. 
SWEEPING.-BAKED INDIAN PUDDING. 
Eds. Rural:—T have been much interested in 
the department of “ Domestic Economy,” and have 
often thought that I would like to contribute a 
mite. Perhaps a few hints about Sweeping will be 
useful to some of your readers. I have been led to 
write on this subject, which some may think too 
simple to notice, by observing a lady, less than a 
hundred miles from here, with whom sweeping 
seems to be a kind of monomania. Her house is 
constantly enveloped in clouds of dust, her carpets 
are all swept away — only the skeleton of them 
remains—and the beauty and polish has been 
scoured off her furniture, books and mantle orna¬ 
ments, by being vigorously dusted, at least three 
times a day. 
No one has a greater horror of dirty doors anil 
dusty furniture than I have, and I think that a 
house may be kept perfectly neat and carpets bo 
made to wear much longer with much less sweep¬ 
ing, than many persons suppose. I think that a 
sitting-room carpet, where there is a small family 
and no children, should not be thoroughly swept 
oftener than once in two weeks, — where there are 
children it should be swept every week. The mid¬ 
dle of the floor should be brushed over every 
morning, and the best way of doing this is to brush 
the loose dirt into a dust pan with a short-handled 
broom. This can be done without raising any dust. 
If dust collects under tables or sofas, it should be 
wiped off with a damp cloth. When the room is 
to be thoroughly swept, such articles of furniture 
as can be easily moved should be placed in another 
room, and books, lamps, vases, Ac., should either 
bo carried away or covered with a cloth. The 
reason for this is, there is always some grit in dust, 
which scratches when it is wiped off, and very soon 
takes the new off things that are varnished or 
polished. Carpets should be taken up and well 
shaken twice every year, and have plenty of clean 
straw under them when put down, which will 
prevent the dust from grinding them on the 
wrong side. 
Straw mattings and bare floors need sweeping 
oftener than woolen carpets, and T think a bristle 
brush is much better for that purpose, than a hard, 
still corn broom, as with a little care one can use 
it without raising any dust. 
I will send you a recipe for Baked Indian Pud- 
ding, which, with baked beans, makes an excellent 
dinner for washing day, as they may be put in the 
oven early in the morning, and need no more care 
till they are taken out for dinner. Three quarts of 
sweet milk; 3 cups of Indian meal; cups of mo¬ 
lasses; 1 teaspoonful of salt. Scald the milk, then 
stir in the meal and molasses; bake in a pudding 
pan, in a stove or brick oven, 4 hours. This will 
make a pudding for a large family. Susanna. 
Yorkshire, N. Y., 1858. 
ROOT BEER. —CREAM NECTAR. 
SrRiNO Root Beer. — Take a handful each of 
yellow dock, dandelion and sarsaparilla roots, sas¬ 
safras bark, hops, and a little boneset, and boil till 
the strength is extracted. To three gallons of the 
liquor, alter it is strained, add one quart of molasses, 
and when cool enough three yeast cakes. Let it 
stand in a warm place 8 or 10 hours, then strain 
and bottle. It will be fit for uso the next day, if the 
weather is warm. Another one, milder and more 
easily made, is the following: 
1 geological Rkek, —To three gallons of wafer, 
lukewarm, a small teaspoonful each of the oils of 
spruce, sassafras and ivintergreen, 1 quart molasses, 
and three yeast cakes. Proceed as with the former. 
This quantity will fill 15 bottles. 
Cream Nectar. —Three pounds sugar and three 
ounces tartaric acid. Pour on them ono quart of 
boiling water; heat together the whites of three 
eggs and three tablespoons flour, which stir in the 
mixture when cool enough; boil for five minutes. 
Do not skim, but stir in the scum when it rises. One 
bottle extract lemon. When wanted for use take 
two tablespoonfuls to a tumbler of cold water and 
one-half teaspoon soda. Auburna. 
To Clean and Restore Black Lace. — Wind 
the lace around a rolling-pin, and fasten it with 
some black thread. Make a good lather of white 
soap and water, and then wash the lace with great 
caic and a gentle hand; rinse away the soapy water 
with clean, milk-warm water; then let itgently dry. 
Next day make some good strong tea—black tea is 
best—and dissolve in it a little gum arabic, using 
about as much gum as one would sugar, if it was to 
drink. Now rinse the clean laco in this gum tea 
several times. Tho tea, or rather the tannin prin¬ 
ciple contained therein, will restore the color of 
the lace, while the gum will impart that degree of 
stiffness necessary. Before tho lace is quite dry, it 
must be folded backwards and forwards between 
the alternate leaves of an old book, and then press¬ 
ed. When quite dry, it will be as fit as ever to 
trim a bonnet or a cap. 
To Make Clothes Water-Proof. — a new 
method is thus described:—Take about thirty 
ounces of alum, and dissolve in thirty quarts of 
water. Then dissolve in another vessel the same 
number of ounces of acetate of lead in an equal 
quantity of water. On mixing the two liquids, 
there will be a precipitate in the form of a powder 
created, which is the sulphate of lead. Turn off the 
liquid, which retains in dissolution the jeetate of 
alum, and plunge into it the fabric desired to be 
made impermeable to water or other fluid. The 
cloth should then be kneaded with the hands until 
it becomes thoroughly saturated, when it should ho 
taken out and exposed in the air to dry. Goods 
rendered impermeable by this process retain no 
unpleasant odor after the second trial. 
To Clean Glass. —Common newspaper is one 
of the best articles. The chemical operation of 
some ingredient of the printing ink gives a beauti¬ 
ful polish. Slightly moisten a piece of paper, roll 
it up and rub the glass; then take a dry, soft piece 
and repeat the process. No lint will remain as in 
the case of using cloth. 
You will never repent of being patient and 
sober. 
